I have a 2008 Camry SE with 105,000 kms (63,000 miles) The vehicle has always been serviced at a Toyota dealer since new. My daily commute is 300 kms (180 miles), all hiway. The vehicle has developed a vibration while in gear and stopped, to a point that it almost stalls (600-700 rpm). I have been placing the gear selector in neutral while stopped and the vibration goes away. The dealer (Cambridge Toyota) advised me to clean the throttle body and injectors, which they did...and it worked for a day or so. I took it back and they disconnected the battery for 20 minutes (so everything goes back to the factory default position...that's what they told me) and it still vibrates. This is my 3rd Camry, I also have an RX400h (wife's) but unless I can resolve the vibration problem this car is "for sale".
Any suggestions? Thx!

 

The word "vibration" is throwing me off here ...
... do you mean the engine misfires, runs rough, hesitates?

If so, could be a number of things but I almost always suspect electrical problems before fuel problems. Has the car been tuned up lately, new air filter, cap, rotor, wires and plugs?

Almost sounds like you may have a cylinder misfiring or not firing at all.
Check your plug wires at night so you can see if the wires are arcing to ground. Might try a resistance check of the plug wires or just get some new ones. What do the plugs look like when you pull them, are any wet or clogged?

I'm betting new cap, rotor, wires and plugs will solve your problem.
Just my take on it ... others may know of something else that would cause this problem.

 

Thx for your reply. Vibration, the feeling as if the car was going to stall. If I move the gear selector from drive to neutral (while stopped) the vibe goes away, completely...to a point you have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running. The maintenance is and has always been completed by a Toyota dealer according to Toyota's schedule. The mystery continues.

 

well, well, well... if your dealer tech does not know to remove ECU fuse to reset ECU, I am just shaking my head.
when will folks learn that dealerships DO NOT have good investigative techs, their bread and butter is belts and maintenance. you go to a good independant, not to dealer. like Greg's Japanese Auto here, and it's 70% dealership cost anyway.
but I do apologize for this remark. you so much reminded me of my inlaw...

I am safely guessing, your engine rpms drop down at idle and engine starts shaking, having hard time maintaining idle speed, resulting in vibration.
normally, Japanese makes are supposed to idle fairly high, at around 700 rpms.
this sounds like possible, idle control, fuel supply, or misfiring issues.
in it's turn, they can be caused by various sub-issues, like sensors, filters, oxidation, poor gas, etc.

1. have the engine codes been read and if yes, what are they?
2. if they were not, go to any parts store and ask them to. then post here.
on 2008 model, you have drive by wire - or you should - throttle control. in a nut shell, your gas pedal does not control throttle valve position directly, your ECU - engine control unit, or module, does, via servos. hence, it all becomes very sensitive to how sensors operate.
personally, I'd have spark plugs replaced, and run a can or 2 of Seafoam through tankfuls, to clean the system. prolly, have air filter replaced same time (I do K&N ones only). just as a preventive measure.
READ CODES. post here.
oh, and if you are "saving $$ on gas" by going to a AM/PM, Circle K, or whatever else is the cheapest gas in your area - STOP. there's always reason it costs what it costs.
mine does not even like Chevron, likes Sam's gas.

 

btw, make sure you DO NOT have a/c running, as it takes a lot of power away from engine. and it WILL run every time you have fan on windows. this feature can be disabled, but someone needs to do it.

 

Thanks for the updates! Where will I find the ECU fuse, under the hood? I quizzed them about the plugs but the service advisor stated 197,000 kms before they need attention and that I would see the "check engine" light first. Regarding fuel I always put in Shell 87 octane, air filter is new in the engine. I have a K & N filter in my '07 Corvette and agree with you on their "value". I'll try to pull the ECU once I know where I can find it, once again thank you!

 

please, do yourself and your car a favor and do NOT go to that dealership anymore.
your NGK iridium tipped plugs are warranted for 100 000 miles, 163 000 km. it does not mean they will WORK through all this time. I changed mine at 55 000 miles as precaution, but it's your call. telling you that CEL - check engine light - will come up before sparks need to be changed is about the best bs I have heard in long time. that's beside the point that CEL is emissions light, not spark plug light.
but anyhow.
you should have fuse box under the hood. mine is hybrid, so layout is different. fuses description is on the back of the fuse box cover, but keep in mind that it's in mirror position. you will also find pincers and spare fuses there. normally, pulling fuse out for about 15 minutes resets all error codes and driving settings, accumulated by ECU through time. also, as you do not disconnect battery, you do no lose your stereo and clock settings.
I'd take it out and leave outside overnight.
your power train is out of warranty. find a good independent, if you are not a DIY type. otherwise, they will Dairy Queen you at dealership.
seriously, do Seafoam. it is a very strong medicine.

 

Thanks for the further updates, I will get on it tonight and report back, thanks again!

 

sedad, why is that you do not read error codes at any parts store?

 

I went to a store called Parts Source and questioned error codes and he (store clerk) looked at me and said..."we don't do that".
I did remove the ECU fuse for 4 hours (just a small 10 amp fuse) but it made no difference today.