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1989 2.0 5-speed manual 134,000

  #1  
Old 08-13-2011, 06:35 AM
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Default 1989 2.0 5-speed manual 134,000

no it's not for sale just giving you details i bought a burgandy one from my girlfreinds crack head grandmother for $200 260,000 miles after putting tags and insurance on it (another $200) it blew up, well it was alrady blown up but i drove it 50 miles home.... then when my feul pump went kaput i had it towed to my brothers house he fixed it drove it to work and said "it's worthless your getting 8 miles a gallon i don't see htf it's still running" so i decided to park it and bought his blue one exactly the same for $1000 only it runs wonderfully my car is perfect in everyway, except the clutch, and the alternator which squeaks, and the distributor get water in it from time to time but absolutely perfect in every way... except it's a salvage title but anyway. i love my car, it's perfect. but anyway lol i'm not getting as great of fuel mileage as i'd like i'm gonna be driving about 600 miles a week once i start college i'm gonna change the clutch assembly before i do anything but, i was just wondering if anyone else had done things to they're camry's to get better gas mileage that actually worked so i don't go out and waste my money, i really want a better air intake but, i can't find any if i'm gonna spend $50 on a k&n replacement i'de rather spend $100 on a whole new intake system my interior is too perfect to wanna tear out once gas goes back down i'm gonna buy a beat up one and strip it but for now, i just need money i'm gonna undo my ac just because winter is coming up and i'll drive it ALOT so i think it'll be worth my time anyone ever heard of unhooking the power steering pump to get the same effect? and where can i get a belt that doesn't include ac
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 09:55 AM
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What MPG are you getting now? This engine and trans combo should get pretty good MPG.

If your short on cash suggest you spend the money on necessary parts and skip the new air intake system. I doubt if you would see any performance difference.

There is not much one can do to increase engine MPG other then making sure the engine is running correctly. For the car keep the tire pressure correct, take out any unneeded weight. There was some formula like 1% MPG loss for every 100 lbs of added weight.

You might look into using synthetic engine and trans oil, this can have some MPG benefit.

For a selection of parts at often cheaper prices try mail order sites such as Rockauto.

Suggest you don't unhook the PS belt.

As to the AC. The pulley always turns however the AC compressor only operates when the magnetic clutch engages. The AC compressor is off when the AC system is off.

No need to bypass the pulley just keep the AC off. Do suggest running the AC 15 minutes a week to lube the seals, this will pay off in the summer as the compressor will not have seized up during the winter from lack of usage or suffered seal failure resulting all the Freon leaking out.
 
  #3  
Old 08-13-2011, 04:51 PM
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30.88 to 33.14 and yeah i was worried about the compresseor going bad from lack of use too so, what your telling me is nothing other than common sense can help me?
 
  #4  
Old 08-13-2011, 09:22 PM
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and why not unhook ps belt?
i know it'll be harder to steer but i've driven vehicles without it before will it hurt anything?
 
  #5  
Old 08-14-2011, 10:10 AM
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Your MPG is OK.

The engine is designed for fuel economy and stop/go/commuter driving, it's a good engine.

Trying to improved MPG with aftermarket parts is not easy or cheap.

Synthetic oil can help gain some MPG, even synthetic trans oil. Synthetics were not available when the car was built. Toyota is now using it in part to gain some MPG.

The aftermarket intakes show minor if any gains, not worth the cost in my opinion.

Yes common sense. Make sure the ign system is up to speed having a hot spark. Check the throttle body bore intake and if too dirty clean with throttle body cleaner.

Drive with the windows up, minimize electrical load (no 1000w stereos), keep tire pressure correct (3% possible gain if under inflated).

Watch the hwy speeds, the higher the speed the lower the MPG. If your coming to a stop sign let off the brake and coast rather then waiting to the last minute to brake. Braking = lost MPG.

Not sure about the PS belt. Short term should be OK, have cut the belt on cars when the system had a leak, etc and needed to still drive. Long term? Should be safe however the rack has PS fluid circulating via the pump which lubricates the seals, etc.

One other issue is the PS rack uses a piston as hydraulic assist. The will still be fluid in the piston chamber that will be forced back and forth as the steering wheel is turned. If you go this route might force out all the fluid by disconnecting the lines, get the fluid out the reconnecting them.

Run a test, if you know the MPG now, remove the belt and recheck. Might find the improvement minor and not worth the loss of PS.
 
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:42 AM
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you've been very helpful thank you very much i wanna get one that's already beat up with a bad interior and take every single thing i don't need out just because i feel like there is ALOT of weight in these camry's between the platsics and carpet and metal and all the "luxury's" and, i already know how to drive for fuel economy and most of the time do.
 
  #7  
Old 02-25-2012, 12:28 AM
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Ok so been a long time but, i started driving about 80 miles a day last august got 37.88 was my highest. did a test and at 80 mph i was just over 3000 rpm and got 30.54 mpg at 2000 rpm roughly 53 mph got 37.88 mpg with about 50 city miles took me about a month just to change the clutch due to school and work. Then in the middle of changing jobs and moving and switching my whole life and schedule. i hit a curb idk whether i was going to fast around the turn or just hot a slick spot or what but i hit the crap out of the curb hit it so hard the tire jumped up and hit my fender so hard the passenger door won't open. that was first week of jan. STILL havn't quite gotten it fixed bent my cradle, and possibly the control arm. replaced the cradle and some other suspension of a parts car i had. still pulls to the right. need to take it to the alignment man so he can tell me whether anything else is bent or fix it right for me BUT the car is stuck in Reidsville, i work 50 hours a week and go to school 35 can't get up there except on weekends. no alignment shops are open in Reidsville on Saturday pulls so hard to the right i'm scared to drive it far. trying to decide whether to get new bushing or new control arms or what. driving even further now with gas at almost $4 a gallon. the 98 camry i bought for $325 just ain't cutting it get's 33 at best. but, my little blue baby is coming back soon might just have to wing it ruin some ****ty tires i got anyways till i get a chance. was planning on doing some simple simple upgrades to get a little more. was gonna make my own intake and modify my exhaust system. bought some e3 spark plugs and gonna switch to synthetic lubricants but, no need for that until i can drive it i've heard about alot of honda's looping the rack and pinion and removing the power steering pump anyone know how that's work?
i'm looking to 45 mpg only 7 more but, it'll ad up quick i'de be satisfied with 41. wish i could gear her higher so at 65-70 mph i was at 2000 rpm instead of 53mph because going 53 mph on i40/85. ain't fun... until some douche in a yukon with bright *** head lights and 30's rides your ***.
 
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