Hi, new to the site but am in bad need of help with my timing belt. I have a 1990 Camry wagon 2.0L I am in the middle of replacing the timing belt. The Haynes manual is very confusing. I have a 3s-fe model engine, I have everything removed, replaced the water pump. the belt broke so I am not sure how to line it up. the There are 2 notches on the cam shaft pulley one round the other straight. also the bottom pulley. it is not clear how to align it, it appears i put the cover back on and align it with the notch on the harmonizing pulley. I have looked all over on line, put every model is a bit different... please if you can help or point me to a site that would be great.

please feel free to email me also
Ianbrown75@hotmail.com

 

Welcome to the site.i am gary and having a great stay here.hope you also like it here.

 

Try the link below:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/BO...iming_belt.pdf

The Haynes and instructions at the link above include info on marking the belt to remove and replace it. As your belt is broke don't use this info.

Align the mark on the crank pulley to 0 degrees to put the No 1 cylinder at TDC. Align the cam pulley so the hole in the spoke is lined up with the mark behind it (as stated in the above link).

IMPORTANT-After you have fully installed the belt, rotate the crank by hand 2 times CW and recheck the marks. It is possible for the cam pulley to move 1 tooth as the tensioner is released. You don't want this. If the marks are now off realign the belt/cam pulley and recheck.

 

You were great to respond so quickly and actuality, i am finding that I am off a bit after i do the rotations (two full turns), I have put the belt on three times now, still being off just a hair. any advice I tried ling the mark a bit to the left, still off. is it maybe something with the tension pulley or spring? also it seems that the belt is moving a little toward the end of the gear like it might be coming off. or is the belt spose to be really close to the edge of the gears.



thanks,
Ian

 

very well said! Its perfectly the way should do and I'll keep this on mind.

thanks!

 

How much is a bit off, one tooth. The alignment can only be off the distances of the teeth.

Readjust the alignment to be one tooth off then look at things.

When installing a belt that fails to line up after 2 rotations the cam pulley can be rotated forward or back one tooth from alignment (whatever is required) before belt installation. Once the tensioner pulls out the slack the cam pulley is moved back into alignment as confirmed by rotating the engine 2 times.

The belt should be fully on the pulleys. If it moves to the edge but not off the edge it is OK.

If your concerned it will come off or things may not be correct, you can start the engine with the upper timing belt cover off (and dog bone mount). Note: sometimes after replacing the belt the engine idles poorly for a few starts but soon straightens itself out.

 

Ok,
followed everything to the letter..... I have lined every thing up, di the rotations, found out my belt was sliding because of the tensioner pulley was not tight enough...... then aha..... it seemed to be working perfect.... or so I thought. let it idle for awhile, revved it a bit to hear putter ect... nothing so I thoguht it was ready. put it all back togther, went to test drive, and there is no real power in it. doesnt really pick up speed, so i am assuming the timing is not right. went about ten blocks (maybe) then at home the temp gauge shot up, the over flow tank was full and you could hear the bubling.. enginge over heat. so now I am back to square one. right? is it possible to get a faulty water pump? and the timing thing? how did i get it wrong? you are my last hhope or i have to take it in an admitt defeat...I do not want to do that for (my wife) will have to much fun on this one.

 

You may have two issues going on.

A few questions:

Was the engine running OK when you started this repair?

Besides the timing belt and water pump, what other parts were replaced?

You didn't stick any rags, etc into the the coolant hoses, etc. when you had them off?

Did you reinstall the thermostat correctly and not backward?

After the engine cooled down was there coolant in the radiator or was it dry.

If the coolant system has been drained for repairs it is possible to refill coolant to the top of the radiator filler and still have a LOT of air in the system. With cap off, try squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses will adding coolant to burp out the air.

If you don't get enough air out (and coolant in) the engine can lack coolant and overheat!

Don't let the car overheat too long or the head gasket will blow!

You are absolutely certain the cam/crank pulleys are lined up per the instructions in the link posted? When checking the alignment will be either spot on or off.

How does the engine idle. Typically if the cam/crank pulley alignmnet is not correct this will carry over into poor idling.

 

The engine was, running fine then the belt shredded off during an up hill climb of about 8% grade (mountain) right in the middle of running lost power, would not restart.

• no other part replaced during this.I did not have any hoses unhooked during the process

• did not replace the thermostat.

• the car heat gauge was about 3/4 way up. (maybe 1 minute)

• absolutely sure about the lining up of the marks, i rechecked after the initial engine start. before i assembled everything back on.

and the idling sound fine, when i let it idle it sound normal, even if i rev up the RMPS, in neutral it sound normal.

thanks again, this is helpful and hopeful....... let me know what you think



Ian

 

In the first post there was referance to a water pump change. Was the pump changed, then after the car put back together then the belt broke?

Did the belt just break in two as in snap or did it shred as referanced in the last post.

During the belt replacement the water pump, hoses, etc where not touched?

You asked about a bad water pump. If you replaced it and it was still new typically they are the don't fail right out of the box.

Did you turn the water pump gear and fell for binding?

If the water pump seizes (and the drive gear stops) this can cause the belt shred. Hence asking if the belt broke or shredded.

The other things that can seize are the idle bearings. The oil pump seldom has a problem.

Just a thought. Is is possible the new water pump failed, this caused the belt to shread. You replaced the belt, the water pump is still bad.

Going up only 3/4 on the temp gauge should not be high enough to cause a head gasket issue.