1990 Camry won't start.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 41
New Development!
Well, I changed all the spark plugs (just in case) and tried the engine oil trick but it still won't start. In fact, it's making some strange noises it never made before, as though something is not aligned properly.
I completely removed the starter a while back for an inspection/cleaning, does it need to be aligned properly? I also removed the distributor cap and noticed a small crack in the casing.....could that be affecting it?
I'm now concerned that the engine might seize up. It hasn't been running in close to a year. Are there any tell-tale signs that an engine is seized?
What do you think?
I completely removed the starter a while back for an inspection/cleaning, does it need to be aligned properly? I also removed the distributor cap and noticed a small crack in the casing.....could that be affecting it?
I'm now concerned that the engine might seize up. It hasn't been running in close to a year. Are there any tell-tale signs that an engine is seized?
What do you think?
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 41
Vapour-locked? That sounds about right. Any tips on how to remedy this? I would appreciate it very much.
Because my knowledge of the subject is limited, I was thinking of replacing some of the key components like the distributor and the starter. But I don't know.
Cheers,
-Mike
Because my knowledge of the subject is limited, I was thinking of replacing some of the key components like the distributor and the starter. But I don't know.
Cheers,
-Mike
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4
From:
Mike, these are all good suggestions. I'm having the same problem with my 1996 Camry with 233,000 miles. I've had really good luck with it but I'm chasing my tail right now trying to get it to run. I'll tell you what I've tried so far and hopefully it might point you in the right direction.
First of all, if you haven't replaced the starter, no biggie. Chances are that your battery is low or that you could have a loose ground. That's probably what is creating the clicking noise in that you aren't getting 12 volts to the starter or the starter isn't getting a return ground to the battery. Start by checking the voltage on the battery with a digital multimeter. You can pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for about 8 bucks that will do most everything you'll ever need. On a fully charged battery, you should be getting a little over 12 volts DC...probably around 12.8 or so. Check to make sure your terminals are clean and not loose or corroded. If everything checks out, move to the starter. Find the positive terminal and ground and check to make sure you have around 12 volts there with the key in the on position with someone bumping the key to the start position. If you have 12 volts while this is occuring but the starter doesn't turn over, chances are that the selonoid is bad. Starters aren't too hard to replace and most of the time, the selonoid is built into the starter so I would just replace that.
As far as checking the ignition, simply remove a spark plug from the engine and re-attach the plug wire to it. Hold the end of the plug against the engine case while you have someone turn the vehicle over. Watch to make sure there is spark. If you have spark, then chances are that your coil and distributor is good. (However, if the distributor cap is cracked, then you're going to introduce moisture so it's a good idea to replace it. About 10-15 bucks on Ebay if I remember correctly.)
To check the fuel pump, remove the rear bottom portion of the seat and you find an access panel to the fuel pump where the left passenger sits. There should be 3 screws. Remove this cover plate and you'll see a wiring harness plug that you can remove from the fuel pump housing. Before removing this harness plug, turn the key to the on position and bump the engine. You should hear the whir of the fuel pump if it is working correctly. If you aren't sure, then use your voltmeter to check for 12 volts DC to the pump wiring with the key still in the on position. I don't remember which pins I checked last time I was there but it doesn't really matter. Just put the ground in on pin and touch the red lead to all the other pins. Move the ground to the next and check the pins...you get the idea. You're looking for 12 volts whether your meter reads positive or negative. Doesn't matter (if it's negative, it just means you've reversed the polarity of the multimeter leads). If you have 12 volts there, and you don't hear the pump turning on or off, then you have a bad pump. I found a replacement online for 40 bucks on ebay. Another way to check for sure is to remove the top line off the fuel filter located under the hood near the firewall under the air box. Take the top line off and bump the engine. If you have fuel spewing out, then the pump is working. (Might be easier to do this to begin with, but I wanted to give you options.)
If all of these things check out, then I would look at the EFI relay possibly being bad. That's where I'm at right now. I know I have ignition and fuel to the engine but it still won't fire. Let me know what you figure out and I'll keep posting as I get deeper into my problem. Best of Luck!
Byron
First of all, if you haven't replaced the starter, no biggie. Chances are that your battery is low or that you could have a loose ground. That's probably what is creating the clicking noise in that you aren't getting 12 volts to the starter or the starter isn't getting a return ground to the battery. Start by checking the voltage on the battery with a digital multimeter. You can pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for about 8 bucks that will do most everything you'll ever need. On a fully charged battery, you should be getting a little over 12 volts DC...probably around 12.8 or so. Check to make sure your terminals are clean and not loose or corroded. If everything checks out, move to the starter. Find the positive terminal and ground and check to make sure you have around 12 volts there with the key in the on position with someone bumping the key to the start position. If you have 12 volts while this is occuring but the starter doesn't turn over, chances are that the selonoid is bad. Starters aren't too hard to replace and most of the time, the selonoid is built into the starter so I would just replace that.
As far as checking the ignition, simply remove a spark plug from the engine and re-attach the plug wire to it. Hold the end of the plug against the engine case while you have someone turn the vehicle over. Watch to make sure there is spark. If you have spark, then chances are that your coil and distributor is good. (However, if the distributor cap is cracked, then you're going to introduce moisture so it's a good idea to replace it. About 10-15 bucks on Ebay if I remember correctly.)
To check the fuel pump, remove the rear bottom portion of the seat and you find an access panel to the fuel pump where the left passenger sits. There should be 3 screws. Remove this cover plate and you'll see a wiring harness plug that you can remove from the fuel pump housing. Before removing this harness plug, turn the key to the on position and bump the engine. You should hear the whir of the fuel pump if it is working correctly. If you aren't sure, then use your voltmeter to check for 12 volts DC to the pump wiring with the key still in the on position. I don't remember which pins I checked last time I was there but it doesn't really matter. Just put the ground in on pin and touch the red lead to all the other pins. Move the ground to the next and check the pins...you get the idea. You're looking for 12 volts whether your meter reads positive or negative. Doesn't matter (if it's negative, it just means you've reversed the polarity of the multimeter leads). If you have 12 volts there, and you don't hear the pump turning on or off, then you have a bad pump. I found a replacement online for 40 bucks on ebay. Another way to check for sure is to remove the top line off the fuel filter located under the hood near the firewall under the air box. Take the top line off and bump the engine. If you have fuel spewing out, then the pump is working. (Might be easier to do this to begin with, but I wanted to give you options.)
If all of these things check out, then I would look at the EFI relay possibly being bad. That's where I'm at right now. I know I have ignition and fuel to the engine but it still won't fire. Let me know what you figure out and I'll keep posting as I get deeper into my problem. Best of Luck!
Byron
