Compression is below the minimum of 142 psi but this should not cause overheating. Cylinder pressure difference is within service spec of 14 psi.

Might perform a block test to check for exhaust gases in coolant.

Did you happen to inspect the water pump impeller and its connection to the drive shaft? Can happen the impeller becomes too corroded to move water or separates from the drive shaft.

 

How did the plugs look when you removed them?

 

I replaced the water pump with a new one in the beginning of all this. The plugs were the used ones that came in the car, I cleaned them up and checked the gap.

I don't know anything about this block test or how to do it.

You talked about the vvti solenoid. Maybe something to look at. The old solenoid was knocked off its body when I got the car, I placed it back on its body, but after watching a you tube video's on replacing a vvti that was not working smoothly, but was grinding, which to me could be sticking causing the timing, to be all over the place. This may explain the rough running after a few minutes. I think I will remove it and check to see how freely it moves. I can replace it for about fifty bucks.

 

The internet would have info on performing a block test including videos. Check your name brand auto parts stores who might loan you a kit, or the internet has them.

The procedure vents any gases coming off the radiator fill port through a plastic container filled with a colored fluid (bromothymol blue) . If C02 gas is present the fluid will change color.

When doing the test you want HOT coolant! A tester having a double chamber works better as it prevents the actual coolant from contacting the fluid. You just want the gas contacting the fluid. Use fresh testing fluid.

 

I did the block test, did not find any problems.

 

Rough running could be the ign coil.

Is there a possibility the engine was overheating before the timing chain broke?

 

No mis-fire on the codes yet, the engine will start up fine and idle for a minute or two, then start running rough, if the gas pedal is tapped a bit the engine will run normal again for a few minutes and start running rough again.

I do not know if the car was over heating when the timing chain broke...

So you think the variable timing solenoid is not sticking?

 

Replaced the VVTi controller and the motor ran much better but still did not fix the problem. It sure seemed like it was, drove it down the road a few miles and dogged the motor a few times, started home and on the last half mile of the trip, the motor started the sounds almost like a diesel motor makes, just not as loud. Got it into the garage and turned the motor off and started it immediately, it run fine again with no knocking sounds...cooling fans never came on, and forgot to tell you that also replaced the thermostat.


You said the cooling fans don't come on except in stop and stop traffic. Could the timing chain tensioner be the problem? Or the computer?

Just checked the codes on the computer and got a 303 mis fire. I have got that code before and swapped out coil one with three and now still getting this code.

 

The diesel sound could be the camshaft VVT-i operational problems. This could explain why the problem was able to correct itself at restart. This VVT-i issue might cause the code as a misfire can be caused by a variety of issues other then ign coil problems.

The fans should come on if the coolant temp rises to say 199F or the A/C compressor is working (compressor not just A/C is turned on).

 

The vvt i has been replaced with a new one. Also, the cooling fans will come on when the ac is turned on.

Could the oil pump be causing this problem?