'92 Toyota Camry
#1
02-14-2012, 03:29 AM
'92 Toyota Camry
I've had my Camry since Aug. '11 and never had any problems with it... The other night I was about to head out, I turned it on, and I heard a high pitch sound, similar to the ringing in your ears... followed by sort of a knocking sound... It eventually went away, within about 2 min. or less... So I drove it to the next town, approximately 45 min. got to my destination, as I tried to start it back up, again I heard that knocking sound... it went away again. I drove it for about ten minutes, go to my destination.... This time, I started it, heard the noise again, I started driving, about 1 minute into driving away, it completely shut off on me... and I haven't been able to start it ever since.. Someone thought it might be the battery, so we tried to jump start it, nothing.... Then someone mentioned it might be the timing belt... Right now I'm stuck in San Diego Co. and I live in Vegas... Before spending a ton of money on a mechanic, I was wondering if anyone has had similar problems, and maybe some feedback as to what may be the issue? The lights all turn on, fluids seem to be on point... I know absolutely NOTHING about cars, completely clueless.. 
Anyway, I checked the radiator, and the water doesn't look clear, it's almost like a greyish color, not exactly "greasy" feeling.. But it's not clear, is this normal, or could this be part of the problem? Someone please help me out?! 
Thank You in advance!! Izzy
Anyway, I checked the radiator, and the water doesn't look clear, it's almost like a greyish color, not exactly "greasy" feeling.. But it's not clear, is this normal, or could this be part of the problem? Someone please help me out?! Thank You in advance!! Izzy
#2
02-14-2012, 01:23 PM
Did the engine over heat at any time?
Was the engine check engine light or alternator light on?
The battery was still charged when the engine quit, as in not run down?
Dip your finger in the coolant and remove it, look for oil residue. This would be very uncommon but since you brought it up. Coolant can as you describe if never changed but it is not going to cause the engine to quit.
Check the engine oil on the dip stick. It should look like oil, not a chocolate milk shake. This would uncommon but never know.
Do you know anyone who has some car knowledge?
Is this a 4 cylinder engine or V6?
Have someone with engine mechanical knowledge look at the side of the engine facing the passengers side fender. Look for a broken belt or other unusual items.
Check for engine ign spark. One way to do this is find the distributor cap. Remove the ign cable at the cap location that comes from the coil (one located in the center of the cap surrounded but other ign cable that look the same).
Place the metal terminal end of this cable about 1/2 inch from a clean metal surface on the car engine or chassis. Have some one turn the ign key to start to turn the motor over. Watch for a spark. Caution, if possible hold the cable with something plastic or you may get a none lethal shock.
If no spark have someone remove the distributor cap, then crank the engine over and determine if the rotor that is behind the cap (now removed) is rotating. If not rotating the timing belt is broke.
Could also be a failed water pump that eventually caused the timing belt to break. The pump is powered by the timing belt.
The noise could have been a sign of a loose or failing belt, the knocking noise is not good.
Belts power the various components on the engine such as alternator, power steering pump, A/C system. The timing belt powers the water and oil pumps plug camshafts. If the timing belt breaks the engine will not run.
It could be some component of the engine powered by a belt was starting to fail. The failure resulting in the pulley turned by a belt to become hard to rotate.
The engine itself drives all the belts.
If the engine was started, the belts start or try to turn but if one pulley is hard to turn the result is the belt slides over the pulley and make a high pitch squeal.
The pulley may now start to turn or if turning now turn faster and the belt stops slipping along with the squeal.
However whatever was causing the pulley not to turn or turn harder may start to make a noise as it is being driven (having to work). This could be the knocking part of the noise.
Perhaps given enough time the problem with the component works it self out and the knocking noise goes away. The component may be failing but it is forced to work/turn.
However over time the component may have failed resulting something being damaged.
Guessing someone (anyone) that does their own car repairs can look at the engine, run a few tests and find the problems (you may not need a $$ mechanic). Ask your friends if they know someone who can do this for you.
Was the engine check engine light or alternator light on?
The battery was still charged when the engine quit, as in not run down?
Dip your finger in the coolant and remove it, look for oil residue. This would be very uncommon but since you brought it up. Coolant can as you describe if never changed but it is not going to cause the engine to quit.
Check the engine oil on the dip stick. It should look like oil, not a chocolate milk shake. This would uncommon but never know.
Do you know anyone who has some car knowledge?
Is this a 4 cylinder engine or V6?
Have someone with engine mechanical knowledge look at the side of the engine facing the passengers side fender. Look for a broken belt or other unusual items.
Check for engine ign spark. One way to do this is find the distributor cap. Remove the ign cable at the cap location that comes from the coil (one located in the center of the cap surrounded but other ign cable that look the same).
Place the metal terminal end of this cable about 1/2 inch from a clean metal surface on the car engine or chassis. Have some one turn the ign key to start to turn the motor over. Watch for a spark. Caution, if possible hold the cable with something plastic or you may get a none lethal shock.
If no spark have someone remove the distributor cap, then crank the engine over and determine if the rotor that is behind the cap (now removed) is rotating. If not rotating the timing belt is broke.
Could also be a failed water pump that eventually caused the timing belt to break. The pump is powered by the timing belt.
The noise could have been a sign of a loose or failing belt, the knocking noise is not good.
Belts power the various components on the engine such as alternator, power steering pump, A/C system. The timing belt powers the water and oil pumps plug camshafts. If the timing belt breaks the engine will not run.
It could be some component of the engine powered by a belt was starting to fail. The failure resulting in the pulley turned by a belt to become hard to rotate.
The engine itself drives all the belts.
If the engine was started, the belts start or try to turn but if one pulley is hard to turn the result is the belt slides over the pulley and make a high pitch squeal.
The pulley may now start to turn or if turning now turn faster and the belt stops slipping along with the squeal.
However whatever was causing the pulley not to turn or turn harder may start to make a noise as it is being driven (having to work). This could be the knocking part of the noise.
Perhaps given enough time the problem with the component works it self out and the knocking noise goes away. The component may be failing but it is forced to work/turn.
However over time the component may have failed resulting something being damaged.
Guessing someone (anyone) that does their own car repairs can look at the engine, run a few tests and find the problems (you may not need a $$ mechanic). Ask your friends if they know someone who can do this for you.
