Hello from sunny Palatine
#1
Steering/handling issue
I have a 2000 Camry LE and I've noticed that the steering is getting a little wonky. If I take a corner at a reasonable speed it turns fine, bit if I go above that it rolls from side to side and is hard to control. No wierd noises and it steers fine when going straight.
Last edited by Markpana; 10-20-2017 at 04:13 AM. Reason: Clarification
#2
How is the steering wheel play. Is the steering solid?
In curves at higher speeds does the body sway from one side to another?
Do a net search on "checking struts" for videos, post, then perform the tests. Basically this is moving the cars chassis up and down to check the strut/spring action.
In curves at higher speeds does the body sway from one side to another?
Do a net search on "checking struts" for videos, post, then perform the tests. Basically this is moving the cars chassis up and down to check the strut/spring action.
#3
How is the steering wheel play. Is the steering solid?
In curves at higher speeds does the body sway from one side to another?
Do a net search on "checking struts" for videos, post, then perform the tests. Basically this is moving the cars chassis up and down to check the strut/spring action.
In curves at higher speeds does the body sway from one side to another?
Do a net search on "checking struts" for videos, post, then perform the tests. Basically this is moving the cars chassis up and down to check the strut/spring action.
#4
Steering is tight, car is good on curves (one curve anyway, posted speed limit was 35 mph.) I'm reluctant to check out the struts, though I can tell you the fronts were replaced in 2015 and the previous owner changed the backs in either 2014 or 2015. I'm thiking it's the stabilizer bar or sway bar. The fronts were replaced because the driver's side literally blew up on me, apparently the upper mount was rusted. I'm hoping they put on new ones.
#6
Get the front suspension moving up and down by pushing on the chassis then releasing. Once moving up/down release it and determine how many up/down cycles it takes to stop.
The stabilizer bar keeps the chassis level (as much as possible) during body sway. You can remove the tires one at a time and inspect the bar/links/bushings for obvious problems. This being something is broken or not connected.
When having the tire off the ground. Check for excess play from bad wheel bearings, worn suspension parts, etc. Grab tire at 3 and 9 o'clock position and move in and out.
The stabilizer bar keeps the chassis level (as much as possible) during body sway. You can remove the tires one at a time and inspect the bar/links/bushings for obvious problems. This being something is broken or not connected.
When having the tire off the ground. Check for excess play from bad wheel bearings, worn suspension parts, etc. Grab tire at 3 and 9 o'clock position and move in and out.
#7
Get the front suspension moving up and down by pushing on the chassis then releasing. Once moving up/down release it and determine how many up/down cycles it takes to stop.
The stabilizer bar keeps the chassis level (as much as possible) during body sway. You can remove the tires one at a time and inspect the bar/links/bushings for obvious problems. This being something is broken or not connected.
When having the tire off the ground. Check for excess play from bad wheel bearings, worn suspension parts, etc. Grab tire at 3 and 9 o'clock position and move in and out.
The stabilizer bar keeps the chassis level (as much as possible) during body sway. You can remove the tires one at a time and inspect the bar/links/bushings for obvious problems. This being something is broken or not connected.
When having the tire off the ground. Check for excess play from bad wheel bearings, worn suspension parts, etc. Grab tire at 3 and 9 o'clock position and move in and out.
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