Newbie with questions
Hi Everyone,
I'm new here and I know next to nothing about cars, but I'm slowly learning.
I have a 96 LE 4 cyl 2.2. My mechanic says I'll need a new water pump, which as I understand it, will include replacing my timing belt. I'll probably need an alternator too, which I might as well do at the same time to save labor.
In order to save on part mark-up, I'd prefer to buy the parts needed for all of the above: water pump, timing belt, and alternator. Any suggestions on the best/most reliable companies that manufacture these parts? I also understand a lot of parts are involved--so, I need to know all of what I need to purchase, so I can present them to my mechanic.
Some point down the road, I'll need to replace my brakes, but I have no idea what is standard on my car, nor do I understand (entirely) which is better: ceramic, semi-metallic, etc., and I will need to know a reliable brand here too.
Thanks for any assistance!
Toodles
I'm new here and I know next to nothing about cars, but I'm slowly learning.
I have a 96 LE 4 cyl 2.2. My mechanic says I'll need a new water pump, which as I understand it, will include replacing my timing belt. I'll probably need an alternator too, which I might as well do at the same time to save labor.
In order to save on part mark-up, I'd prefer to buy the parts needed for all of the above: water pump, timing belt, and alternator. Any suggestions on the best/most reliable companies that manufacture these parts? I also understand a lot of parts are involved--so, I need to know all of what I need to purchase, so I can present them to my mechanic.
Some point down the road, I'll need to replace my brakes, but I have no idea what is standard on my car, nor do I understand (entirely) which is better: ceramic, semi-metallic, etc., and I will need to know a reliable brand here too.
Thanks for any assistance!

Toodles
Have you discussed using your own parts with the mechanic? Many will only use parts they furnish.
Aisin was one water pump OEM suppier. Pumps are available with and without the housing it mounts to. Most times there is no need to replace the housing.
Mitsubishi and Bando for belts. Get a belt labeled as made from highly saturated nitrile (HSN) which last longer.
The parts you need depends on what the mechanic finds when they inspect the timing belt area and its components.
Typically the the mechanic also inspect for oil leaks from the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump seals. If showing signs of leaking it is much easier to change them now with engine apart.
The timing belt rides on two idler bearings which may also be replaced. Koyo and GMB are the more popular idle bearings brands.
Kits are sold containing the belt, water pump, idler bearings. Some even have the seals, etc.
Do you know what the issue is with the alternator? Is it the original factory alt? The most common issue with alternator is the brushes. The brushes on the factory alt can be replaced with alt still mounted on the engine.
Many alts sold are rebuilt suggest staying away from these. Bosch makes good alts and Denso (if you can find a new one).
For brake pads suggest getting them from Toyota. After market pads can make noise. For lower prices try online discount dealers. Akebono also makes decent brakes.
Ceramic are replacing semi-metallic as less dust and less rotor wear.
Aisin was one water pump OEM suppier. Pumps are available with and without the housing it mounts to. Most times there is no need to replace the housing.
Mitsubishi and Bando for belts. Get a belt labeled as made from highly saturated nitrile (HSN) which last longer.
The parts you need depends on what the mechanic finds when they inspect the timing belt area and its components.
Typically the the mechanic also inspect for oil leaks from the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump seals. If showing signs of leaking it is much easier to change them now with engine apart.
The timing belt rides on two idler bearings which may also be replaced. Koyo and GMB are the more popular idle bearings brands.
Kits are sold containing the belt, water pump, idler bearings. Some even have the seals, etc.
Do you know what the issue is with the alternator? Is it the original factory alt? The most common issue with alternator is the brushes. The brushes on the factory alt can be replaced with alt still mounted on the engine.
Many alts sold are rebuilt suggest staying away from these. Bosch makes good alts and Denso (if you can find a new one).
For brake pads suggest getting them from Toyota. After market pads can make noise. For lower prices try online discount dealers. Akebono also makes decent brakes.
Ceramic are replacing semi-metallic as less dust and less rotor wear.
Hi Joey!
Thank you very much for your time and very helpful responses. It is much appreciated!
I will do some research on your suggestions. Previously, I had seen some timing belt kits, but wasn't sure about the overall quality, especially the timing belt. I think the manufacturer is Evergreen. I also did some research on Beck Arnley parts, such as a water pump and their timing belts. I began to get confused when I noted that some come with certain parts, whereas others did not, but as you pointed out, the housing doesn't always need to be replaced. I suppose it would be good to have the parts though, just in case.
With an expensive job such as this, I really want to eliminate the need for another replacement anytime soon.
I have found a Denso (OES) re-manufactured alt. I have yet to find a new one. My mechanic suspects the slight ticking noise is the water pump, whereas a friend felt the noise was my alt--maybe a bearing? I have to agree with my friend, the sound does seem to emanate from the alt, but my current mechanic is trustworthy.
I bought the car used at 118K, and the previous owner replaced the alt just prior to my purchase (and previously!). Do they need replacement that often? She also replaced the water pump at 94K.
I replaced the timing belt at 120K miles, and my car has 168K now. Seems low mileage for another belt, unless the previous mechanic used an inferior product--but, I have no knowledge of these things.
Thank you very much for your time and very helpful responses. It is much appreciated!
I will do some research on your suggestions. Previously, I had seen some timing belt kits, but wasn't sure about the overall quality, especially the timing belt. I think the manufacturer is Evergreen. I also did some research on Beck Arnley parts, such as a water pump and their timing belts. I began to get confused when I noted that some come with certain parts, whereas others did not, but as you pointed out, the housing doesn't always need to be replaced. I suppose it would be good to have the parts though, just in case.
With an expensive job such as this, I really want to eliminate the need for another replacement anytime soon.
I have found a Denso (OES) re-manufactured alt. I have yet to find a new one. My mechanic suspects the slight ticking noise is the water pump, whereas a friend felt the noise was my alt--maybe a bearing? I have to agree with my friend, the sound does seem to emanate from the alt, but my current mechanic is trustworthy.
I bought the car used at 118K, and the previous owner replaced the alt just prior to my purchase (and previously!). Do they need replacement that often? She also replaced the water pump at 94K.
I replaced the timing belt at 120K miles, and my car has 168K now. Seems low mileage for another belt, unless the previous mechanic used an inferior product--but, I have no knowledge of these things.
Bosch sells a new alt. Try Rockauto.com.
However if Denso themselves re-manufactured the alt they should have done a decent job.
You can narrow down the noise location by using a section of hose as a stethoscope.
If you think it is the alt, the alt drive belt can be taken off and the engine checked for lack of noise when running. The alt pulley can then be rotated by hand to feel for bearing roughness.
Pump failure is not common. Some owners replace the pump ever other timing belt change as a precaution. Sometimes shops will suggest replacing pump at belt change. This since the engine is already apart to change the belt.
For this year of car, belt makers recommend changing the belt at 60K miles or so many years. Toyota has no recommended mileage or time but states to inspect the belt.
Over the years belts quality has improved. Belt change recommendations for Camry 1999 and beyond have increased to 90K miles. I now change belts at 90K. However have had belts break at say 98K will are still running after 130K. The quality of the belt makes a difference!
Do you know why the pump was changed at 94K? Was the belt also changed?
Was the belt changed at 60K then again at 120K as this is in keeping with the 60K interval?
You replaced the belt at 120K. If following belt makers recommendations for this year of car the next change is at 180K.
I suggest asking your friend to use the hose method to narrow down the noise. The pump is on the side of the engine where the large coolant hose goes to the lower part of the radiator behind the timing belt cover. Check both areas for the noise.
The A/C compressor clutch can also make a ticking noise. The compressor is a large metal device below the alt and also operated by the belt.
If the issue is the alt you can replace this then decide what to about the pump/timing belt as you have a few miles to go before 180K.
If changing the belt, get the HSN material belt or even a Toyota brand. The belt used for the 96 and 99 are the same one.
However if Denso themselves re-manufactured the alt they should have done a decent job.
You can narrow down the noise location by using a section of hose as a stethoscope.
If you think it is the alt, the alt drive belt can be taken off and the engine checked for lack of noise when running. The alt pulley can then be rotated by hand to feel for bearing roughness.
Pump failure is not common. Some owners replace the pump ever other timing belt change as a precaution. Sometimes shops will suggest replacing pump at belt change. This since the engine is already apart to change the belt.
For this year of car, belt makers recommend changing the belt at 60K miles or so many years. Toyota has no recommended mileage or time but states to inspect the belt.
Over the years belts quality has improved. Belt change recommendations for Camry 1999 and beyond have increased to 90K miles. I now change belts at 90K. However have had belts break at say 98K will are still running after 130K. The quality of the belt makes a difference!
Do you know why the pump was changed at 94K? Was the belt also changed?
Was the belt changed at 60K then again at 120K as this is in keeping with the 60K interval?
You replaced the belt at 120K. If following belt makers recommendations for this year of car the next change is at 180K.
I suggest asking your friend to use the hose method to narrow down the noise. The pump is on the side of the engine where the large coolant hose goes to the lower part of the radiator behind the timing belt cover. Check both areas for the noise.
The A/C compressor clutch can also make a ticking noise. The compressor is a large metal device below the alt and also operated by the belt.
If the issue is the alt you can replace this then decide what to about the pump/timing belt as you have a few miles to go before 180K.
If changing the belt, get the HSN material belt or even a Toyota brand. The belt used for the 96 and 99 are the same one.
Hi Joey,
Once again, I thank you for your time and wealth of info! It is VERY appreciated!
BEFORE I OWNED THE CAR:
The idle speed control valve was replaced at 104K and at 116K. I guess the first was faulty.
Alt was replaced at 103K and at 117K. Yes, twice.
At the time of water pump (94K), I see only Gasket kit, engine 5, NO timing belt, unless the gasket kit included it? So, to answer your question, unless the gasket kit included a timing belt, it looks like I’m the first replacement since OE (see below).
SINCE I’VE OWNED THE CAR:
At 121K, recommendation was that the alternator bearing was noisy. I didn’t replace it. I still have the same unit at 168K. At same place and time, they suggested I needed an idle speed control valve (see above!) and that the timing belt was making noise (this was after I had just replaced it at 120K).
If I had to describe the sound a bit better (either the alt or pump area), it has a soft rapid click or more like a whirl/hum sound. Don’t you love when people try to describe sounds?! Lol.
I recently had to replace the front and rear catalytic converters. Check engine was PO420. After one reset, it came back on, so that was that. I believe they were original, as I have no record of them being replaced previously. I don’t know if, as damaged, they did any additional damage to other parts.
Once again, I thank you for your time and wealth of info! It is VERY appreciated!

BEFORE I OWNED THE CAR:
The idle speed control valve was replaced at 104K and at 116K. I guess the first was faulty.
Alt was replaced at 103K and at 117K. Yes, twice.
At the time of water pump (94K), I see only Gasket kit, engine 5, NO timing belt, unless the gasket kit included it? So, to answer your question, unless the gasket kit included a timing belt, it looks like I’m the first replacement since OE (see below).
SINCE I’VE OWNED THE CAR:
At 121K, recommendation was that the alternator bearing was noisy. I didn’t replace it. I still have the same unit at 168K. At same place and time, they suggested I needed an idle speed control valve (see above!) and that the timing belt was making noise (this was after I had just replaced it at 120K).
If I had to describe the sound a bit better (either the alt or pump area), it has a soft rapid click or more like a whirl/hum sound. Don’t you love when people try to describe sounds?! Lol.
I recently had to replace the front and rear catalytic converters. Check engine was PO420. After one reset, it came back on, so that was that. I believe they were original, as I have no record of them being replaced previously. I don’t know if, as damaged, they did any additional damage to other parts.
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