06 Camry: Wheel Bearing Replacement
'04 Camry LE 4-cyl
140k miles
The wheel bearing on this car needs replaced. I lack a shop press, and I'm not the sort who beats on interference fit components. Before I take the car to the shop, I'm researching options and soliciting opinions from those experienced with this sort of repair.
I like the simplicity of replacing the (knuckle, hub, bearing, dust shield). While pricey, it's much less expensive than the shop, and more convenient for me since the car will be out of service for only the length of time it takes me to do the swap.
Thoughts? Opinions?
140k miles
The wheel bearing on this car needs replaced. I lack a shop press, and I'm not the sort who beats on interference fit components. Before I take the car to the shop, I'm researching options and soliciting opinions from those experienced with this sort of repair.
I like the simplicity of replacing the (knuckle, hub, bearing, dust shield). While pricey, it's much less expensive than the shop, and more convenient for me since the car will be out of service for only the length of time it takes me to do the swap.
Thoughts? Opinions?
Last edited by lothian; Jul 11, 2022 at 10:18 AM. Reason: uu
All the parts you list are sold separate and will need to be assembled using a press for some of them or perhaps get a complete used assy at a salvage yard.
One could obtain a new bearing and find a local machine shop that has a press. Some auto parts store also have a machine shop.
Suggest you obtain service info on the car and remove tire to look closely at the assembly. The varies nuts will need to be torqued to some setting thus to the job properly you will need a torque wrench. The large nut retaining the axle to the hub may have a torque in access of 100 ft lbs. To remove and replace the nut will require retaining the hub from rotating plus a large socket and drive setup.
The control arm and steering arm attachment threaded lug to the knuckle may be FIRMLY stuck in place. One can't just hit the top of the lug as the threads may be damaged. There are tools for this job one might be able to rent and for sure buy. The internet would have photos of these tools and video's of their usage. Harbor Freight can sell cheap, decent tools.
If doing the job now is the time to inspect the axle CV joint boot and differential seal for damage as all the parts are removed to take out the shaft. Note that the axle shaft set up is different for the L/R side which can require a very different method to remove the shaft from the differential of needing to replace a boot or diff seal. If removing the shaft then read up on the job first and be prepared for problems.
One could obtain a new bearing and find a local machine shop that has a press. Some auto parts store also have a machine shop.
Suggest you obtain service info on the car and remove tire to look closely at the assembly. The varies nuts will need to be torqued to some setting thus to the job properly you will need a torque wrench. The large nut retaining the axle to the hub may have a torque in access of 100 ft lbs. To remove and replace the nut will require retaining the hub from rotating plus a large socket and drive setup.
The control arm and steering arm attachment threaded lug to the knuckle may be FIRMLY stuck in place. One can't just hit the top of the lug as the threads may be damaged. There are tools for this job one might be able to rent and for sure buy. The internet would have photos of these tools and video's of their usage. Harbor Freight can sell cheap, decent tools.
If doing the job now is the time to inspect the axle CV joint boot and differential seal for damage as all the parts are removed to take out the shaft. Note that the axle shaft set up is different for the L/R side which can require a very different method to remove the shaft from the differential of needing to replace a boot or diff seal. If removing the shaft then read up on the job first and be prepared for problems.
I'd buy the whole assembly for simplicity sake and time.
I went to service the bearings in my boat trailer and found both sides had really bad bearings.
I bought new hub assemblies and saved a lot of time and hassle.
I know my boat trailer and your Camry aren't the same but the lesson is, in my opinion...
I went to service the bearings in my boat trailer and found both sides had really bad bearings.
I bought new hub assemblies and saved a lot of time and hassle.
I know my boat trailer and your Camry aren't the same but the lesson is, in my opinion...
Excellent suggestions from you both!
Exactly why I posted here. Thanks!
I like the simplicity of replacing the (knuckle, hub, bearing, dust shield). While pricey, it's much less expensive than the shop—quotes range from $365 to $550. The advantage of this method: violently easy job that requires less than an hour to complete and does not requite a shop press. The disadvantage: non-Toyota—meaning: Chinaseum—part and potential sub-quality issues and lower-life-expectancy incumbent with such; and of this fact I am definitely circumspect. We could go the salvage-route and source a complete knuckle assembly from LKQ; but their cost for an ~18yo part with unknowable wear and mileage is a mere few dollars less than some new, though hecho en china, part.
I have the Toyota Factory Service Manual for this car. In it are torque specs (of course) for each relevant fastener. The axel nut gets torqued to a sphincter-puckering 214-ft.lbs; and close to the upper limit of my torque wrench where accuracy becomes iffy.
I'm doing this job myself. I need only make a decision concerning sourcing parts.
Exactly why I posted here. Thanks!
I like the simplicity of replacing the (knuckle, hub, bearing, dust shield). While pricey, it's much less expensive than the shop—quotes range from $365 to $550. The advantage of this method: violently easy job that requires less than an hour to complete and does not requite a shop press. The disadvantage: non-Toyota—meaning: Chinaseum—part and potential sub-quality issues and lower-life-expectancy incumbent with such; and of this fact I am definitely circumspect. We could go the salvage-route and source a complete knuckle assembly from LKQ; but their cost for an ~18yo part with unknowable wear and mileage is a mere few dollars less than some new, though hecho en china, part.
I have the Toyota Factory Service Manual for this car. In it are torque specs (of course) for each relevant fastener. The axel nut gets torqued to a sphincter-puckering 214-ft.lbs; and close to the upper limit of my torque wrench where accuracy becomes iffy.
I'm doing this job myself. I need only make a decision concerning sourcing parts.
Last edited by lothian; Jul 20, 2022 at 11:47 AM.
I'm not sure you'd save money but maybe:
Get the assembly from the salvage yard and then replace all the parts with factory/quality parts and then install self refurbished assemblies.
A hybrid method of the options you mentioned I guess
Get the assembly from the salvage yard and then replace all the parts with factory/quality parts and then install self refurbished assemblies.
A hybrid method of the options you mentioned I guess
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