I bought this car from a dealership they told me me it had a brake issue.. after a few miles down the road I notice a small shake in the steering when making long left turns. So I think busted belt on a tire or something and I take it to nearest tire shop. They tell me there is nothing wrong with my tires then tel my my wheel bearings and tie rods ends were shot.so I started to press in a new bearing with a rental kit and the rental kit was stripped out to where I couldn’t get the bearing all the way on so I took it back before I got charged for it. I then went to junk yard and pulled the whole hub Assembly of 99 Toyota it had 14s not 15s like my car not knowing so or knowing any better I put it on my car and it broke my brake caliper pin and wore the pads at an angle.. since then I’ve bought 2 brand new hub assemblies and 15” rotor new caliper and pads and the wheel bearing goes bad in the first 10 miles I’ve tightened the hub nut to 160 lbs torque and I’ve not hit any pot holes if there is transcient current it wasn’t there when I bought the car and I’m at a loss for why the bearing keeps going out. I’m about to swap the driver side cv axle and inner tie rod. Then I will have changed everything on driver side that I can think of I have new cv axle inner tie rod and another new hub assembly I will be doing this tmrrw I hope my wheel bearing don’t go out! Any real clues why this is happening? It’s not the obvious reasons also driver side brake drags slightly but it’s not even noticeable and don’t get that hot it has never smoked or smelled hot or made me think it was a real issue

 

When the new bearing/hub was in stalled did you rotate the hub (pad removed) to check for binding?

How was the bearing pressed into the hub?

The axle nut torque is something like 217 ft lbs.

 

problem solved after putting in a new cv axle and inner tie rod problem went away going on 3 weeks now no issues thanks for the reply


Stokes