2011 Camry 2.5L 78K
I checked front sway bar links and though they will stay in position, and the boots are not torn, I could easily move them with my hand. I got two Moog links from Amazon. Two of the links are easily moved by hand and two can only be moved in a vise. I thought they are supposed to be very tight? Also, I received two different designs although they have same part #. Maybe one is an older design? Would it be better to have both the same? Also, looks like front and rear links are exactly the same? Thanks!

 

The fitting location looks OK for each part.

The front link should have the studs facing the same way and the grease fitting in back. The rear studs should be facing the opposite way and the fitting on the side..

 

Thanks. Does the ball/socket need to be very tight? I spoke to a Moog tech and he basically said "Depends on the grease used". Maybe my old ones are ok.

 

Here's the two I ordered. Both should be front links but looks like I ordered the rear ones by mistake. I might as well check and see if I need those too. Sorry, I guess I posted in the wrong section.


One has zerk on the side, one on the rear!

 

How to inspect links from Alldata. .4 to 18 in lb doesn't seem very tight at all. The range for the rears is only .4 to 9 in lb. Also, I did check the rears without disconnecting them and I can move them easily holding the end of the link and moving the ball in the socket back and forth. It doesn't move just holding the rod and trying to shake it. Still not sure if they need replacement though.

 

Might recheck the torque. Listings here are around 55 ft lb front and 59 rear. But recheck yourself.

 

Those values you post are correct for installation. This is the test to inspect the tightness of the ball/socket. There's no way I'll be doing that test. I'm only concerned with the wide degree of tightness of the joint. Of the three Moog links I have now, one is extremely tight, one medium and one is a bit loose, although it will stay in the position it's put in. So leaves me wondering which is best or does it not matter?

 

The inspection is to check for play and noise (rattle when driving). If no play or noise then good to go.

 

Thanks, I'll just return these then. I thought I heard some noise over bumps so when I saw how my old ones moved about I assumed they must be the problem. But the boots are not torn and they don't make any noise when grabbed and moved about. I got under there today with a lever but couldn't find anything. Struts seem ok. Shucks. And I was looking forward to spending all day on a one hour job.

 

The common causes of a rattling suspension over bumps are bad sway bar bushings and bad upper strut mounts. Bushings and sway bar may seem to have no play but can still make noise because bushing is worn.