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1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L Camshaft Question - Exhaust Camshaft service bolt needed?

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  #1  
Old 10-22-2009, 09:46 PM
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Default 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L Camshaft Question - Exhaust Camshaft service bolt needed?

Just finished up installing my cylinder head and intake manifold as well as fuel rail on my 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L. So far installed the intake camshaft as well. I was ready to install the exhaust camshaft, but read online about the service bolt as well as in the manual, but the manual never stated why it was necessary. After further reading online it stated that the service bolt prevents the gears from unwinding and causing the cam to be out of time when removed. When I removed the camshafts I never placed a service bolt in the exhaust camshaft (should have now!). I never noticed the cam unwinding when I removed it from the cylinder head. I had the cylinder head and both cams to a machine shop for reconditioning. After carefully looking at the exhaust cam now I notice the do line up, but there is hole and something line a pin that are a off a bit out of alignment. Does the pin and hole have to line up? Looks like it would fit if the one gear was turned about 1/8 turn or so.
Wondering if anyone here has and answer to this.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 05-19-2011, 11:29 PM
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Default Exhaust gear adjustment

The machine shop I took my head to, removed the service bolt and did not replace it when they removed the cam. I now have the same problem as above. Does anyone know how to align the two halves of the gear? 96 LE with 2.2l
 
  #3  
Old 05-19-2011, 11:48 PM
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The bolt was just removed, the gears were not taken apart?

Secure cam or have someone hold it.

The service gear may have three holes. With the service gear (side the pulley bolts to) facing you, insert a bolt into the first hole on farthest right side. Say 1:00 position. The two other holes will be at say 8 and 10.

Using the camshaft as a fulcrum pry the bolt shank to rotate the gear clockwise until the service bolt hole in the service gear aligns with the threaded hole on the main gear. Install the bolt.
 
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:59 PM
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It does not appear that the service gear was removed, just the service bolt was removed with the cam out of the head. Performing the steps you listed, I was only able to rotate the service gear about 8-12 degrees. About 5 degrees turn, one of the holes in the service gear lines up with the threaded hole so that is where I set it. This allowed a one tooth change. I hope it is right because once the engine was back together (also had the short block rebuilt) I have a bad vibration around 2000rpm. Could this be a symptom? I'm finding out the machine shop may not have known how to align the balance shafts and I did not check them before install. I'll be dropping the oil pan tomorrow afternoon to check if I find the procedure for this alignment also.
 
  #5  
Old 05-26-2011, 10:24 AM
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The cam install should be OK.

Send a private message with email address. Will send a file for 1994 5SFE engine rebuild which will help with checking the balance shaft. Note-file is about 20Mb.
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-2011, 05:21 PM
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Would you remind sending me one, too? My e-mail is <my toyota forums username> @yahoo.com.
 
  #7  
Old 07-09-2011, 07:52 PM
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Thanks for the offer however, I found a manual that I used. The balance shafts were installed 180 out. My vibration is gone!

Next issue is the car varies idle speed, vibrates at an idle, gets poor gas mileage and overall has poor performance. When starting cold there is a ticking coming from around the cam gear. Sounds just like a sticking lifter in a non-ohc engine. It lasts about 2 minutes. When starting hot it sounds like a knock for about 3 seconds. going to relook at the timing belt and valve clearances tomorrow.

Rebuilt small block and reworked head due to overheat.

Any ideas on what I could look at?
 
  #8  
Old 07-10-2011, 10:34 AM
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Have you checked for air leaks?

All the wiring and vacuum hose installation is correct?
 
  #9  
Old 10-17-2011, 06:29 PM
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Sorry its been a while. When removing the engine, I snapped off the filter from the Vacuum Control Valve for the EGR. $80.00 mistake! I replaced all the vacuum hoses and accidently hooked the hoses up backwards on this valve. I found it by watching the pressure on the egr and saw it remained at -4 at an idle and acceleration. Plus, instead of trapping the vacuum from the modulator, it was venting to atmosphere causing a vacuum leak. Reversed the hoses, vacuum on the egr goes to zero when it should and drops to -4 when cruising. Gas mileage and power improved.
Is -4 good? All codes are gone.
Replaced TPS during this repair but it did not receive instructions. Looking for that next.
 
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