Hey all, I'm currently (as of tonight) pulling out my v6 in my 98 xle. I'm accustomed to dealing with the inline six 5 speed rwd setup on my supra so fwd is a different situation for me. I've started takin' things off tonight and am hoping to be ready to pull day after tomorrow due to work and all. Before I pull this I was wonderin' what y'all find to be easier-- pull the tranny or leave it in?

 

i'de leave the trany ...remove the crank pulley to gain a little more room..

 

Turns out I'm gonna pull the tranny with it. It seems to be the easiest route and I can replace the seals while it's out too. I appreciate the tip though. God willing, I won't have to ever pull another (or do any major work to) a fwd car again.

 

Not fun at allare they.

 

Good thing I've completed the swap successfully or that smartass reply would've pissed me off. If anyone has any questions concerning this swap send me a message and I'll do my best to assist you. The motor is extremely quiet and runs great. Brand new CV axles, new tranny seals, idle pulley's, new belts, new exhaust and egr gaskets, new intake gaskets..may be forgetting some stuff, but it's definitly "good to go" now. Thanks for the help for those of you who did

 

I'm about to remove and replace the V6 in my 94 Lexus ES300 (basically a Camry repackaged). If you had any tips for how to most easily do this I'd really appreciate it!

 

No real tips.

Suggest unless setup to go out the bottom to exit from the top as one trans/engine unit. Once the unit is free of its mounts you may have to tip the trans down to clear the chassis.

You are going to need to remove the axles make sure the car is where you want it before starting.

Take lots of notes, label all plugs, hoses, etc. Pictures if possible.

Inspect the trans input shaft and rear crank oil seal for leakage or just change them.

If you remove the torque converter make sure you note it engages the trans oil pump with a tang into a slot system. Upon reinstalling the converter the tangs need to sit in the oil pump shaft slots or the converter will extend slightly out of the bell housing. This will cause damage to the oil pump when the bell housing is bolted to the engine resulting in the tang now forcing its way into the oil pump.

This is a good time to inspect the steering rack and pinion for oil leaks inside the end bellows as removing the rack will be easier with the engine out.

Inspect the replacement engine carefully for items such as falling freeze plugs, rare but happens, much easier to replace now.

Of course if the engine needs it replace the timing belt, cam/crank seals, etc.

 

Thanks Much ToyoMoho!