Help in Removing A/F Bank 1 Sensor 1
#1
Help in Removing A/F Bank 1 Sensor 1
I've recently undergone the trauma of trying to remove the Bank 1 Sensor 1 on my V6 2000 Camry. It's the one located down between the firewall and engine--very tight place, not much wiggle room. One Toyota service adviser told me they would remove it by working from below, not from on top. If anyone out there has been successful in accomplishing this, I'd greatly appreciate the details of your success. What tools worked best for you? Did you work from above or below? I would really appreciate the details. My trauma entailed finding the sensor absolutely frozen in place, eventually just spinning and stripping it's threads. I took it to Toyota for a mega bucks repair. Service adviser said sometimes this happens, that his own technicians would not have been successful in removing it without the damage. Thanks so much for your help. I want to be prepared for the next time!
#3
Sometimes these sensor freeze up in the manifold.
The link below has info for going in from the top:
2000 TOYOTA CAMRY 3.0L 2995cc V6 FI [1MZFE] DOHC_Oxygen Sensor Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
Take note of using a sensor socket. Keep the anti-seize compound off everything except the threads.
The link below has info for going in from the top:
2000 TOYOTA CAMRY 3.0L 2995cc V6 FI [1MZFE] DOHC_Oxygen Sensor Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
Take note of using a sensor socket. Keep the anti-seize compound off everything except the threads.
#4
Thanks for the advice, Toyomoho. I discovered that when trying to remove the sensor from the bottom with a deep oxygen sensor socket I purchased from O'Reilly's, the overall length of the socket + very short 1.5" extension bar + ratchet had to be exactly a certain length. Too much or too little and you wouldn't be able to position the ratchet so you could tug on the darn thing. Fortunately I did configure the exact overall length I needed, but the sensor was frozen.
I have a question, though, in going in from the top, using the Schley shielded oxygen sensor wrench mentioned in the link you suggested. Would you use just a regular ratchet on the wrench? My 3/8" drive has a fairly short handle--just 6-1/2". For a really stubborn sensor I'm not sure I can use this ratchet to generate sufficient torque. Sometimes I'll put a section of pipe over the ratchet for more leverage, but I'm not sure if there's enough room to do that. Would you recommend a breaker bar? This car lives 100+ miles from my home so at the moment I can't just go out and see how things fit and see the amount of room I have in which to maneuver. Thanks for your help.
I have a question, though, in going in from the top, using the Schley shielded oxygen sensor wrench mentioned in the link you suggested. Would you use just a regular ratchet on the wrench? My 3/8" drive has a fairly short handle--just 6-1/2". For a really stubborn sensor I'm not sure I can use this ratchet to generate sufficient torque. Sometimes I'll put a section of pipe over the ratchet for more leverage, but I'm not sure if there's enough room to do that. Would you recommend a breaker bar? This car lives 100+ miles from my home so at the moment I can't just go out and see how things fit and see the amount of room I have in which to maneuver. Thanks for your help.
#5
Read TedL's post at the site below on ratchet placement.
O2 sensor replacement for bank1 sensor 1 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
O2 sensor replacement for bank1 sensor 1 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
#6
2 ton jackstands are about less than $20 each. At least 2 of them, with chocks under rear wheels, should get her high enough to do it from the bottom.
Any penetrating agent should be applied liberally and left there for about 20 min-s, then applied again, and again. Soft hammer taps on the sensor nut will help. Of course, impact wrench is the best, but unless it's a miracle, you won't be able to use it even from below.
Reason I say this, as I do work on my cars religiously (just did spark plugs on LexusRX300 3.0L engine, that's $475 + tax dealer), I have learned valuable lesson. It is not worth trying taking shortcuts or outsmarting a repair. Usually, results in more time wasted and broken parts, and beat up hands. Investing into some tools and doing it the right way is the best way always. Well, most of the time. Like those plugs. As book says to remove plenum, and I did not. He-he.
Any penetrating agent should be applied liberally and left there for about 20 min-s, then applied again, and again. Soft hammer taps on the sensor nut will help. Of course, impact wrench is the best, but unless it's a miracle, you won't be able to use it even from below.
Reason I say this, as I do work on my cars religiously (just did spark plugs on LexusRX300 3.0L engine, that's $475 + tax dealer), I have learned valuable lesson. It is not worth trying taking shortcuts or outsmarting a repair. Usually, results in more time wasted and broken parts, and beat up hands. Investing into some tools and doing it the right way is the best way always. Well, most of the time. Like those plugs. As book says to remove plenum, and I did not. He-he.
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