Ok, 87 with just over 100k on the ticker.

A/C quit working. Compressor was not running, found blown fuse under dash on right side. Compressor ran but pressure didn't drop. Suspected bad compressor, changed, sucked down, recharged, same issue. Not sure where to go with this.

Automatic Shifter loose. how do I get the console out to tighten?

Getting a growl in the front end during high speed braking. Pads are good, rotors are good, doesn't seem to be any bearing noise.

Thanks for the help.

 

Pickup a Haynes shop manual for this generation of Camry.

Shifter loose how? All directions, back and forth, up/down?

How are you checking the A/C system pressure? Are you using a manifold gauge set?

Does the steering wheel shake during braking? Car have ABS? Pads installed correctly and wearing evenly (uniform thickness on pad). Rotors/pads not glazed over? All shims/springs installed?

 

No pulse in pedal or wheel. Pressures checked with manifold set, high and low the same. Shift lever is mostly loose left and right. Have factory and Haynes.

 

Try sanding the disk with "garnet" paper, not normal sand paper, emery cloth or aluminum oxide.

Remove the plastic trim around the shifter to access and inspect it.

Did you fill the system with the initial proper amount of Freon based on the manual?

Does the AC compressor drive shaft rotate when the clutch is engaged?

Does the high/low pressure readings change when the compressor is engaged (if it does engage)?

What are these pressures with compressor on at 2000 RPM.

Ditto for compressor off.

What was the outside air temp when checking pressures?

 

Sorry about the long delay but I rarely get to do anything on this car since she is 2 hours away. The shifter just has a lot of side to side play and up and back. It's just loose in general. Not sure how to get the trim out to inspect. Having issues with getting the key to turn, have to work it sometimes for a bit. Lubrication seems to help. Tried a couple of different keys.

 

Shift cable loose or shift lever mount itself loose?

Have you tried rotating the steering wheel when turning the key?

How are the other keys, are the worn?

Suggest if rotating the wheel, lube, keys, etc doesn't work to replace the lock cylinder. Its possible the lock can wear out and no longer turn with any key. The lock cylinder needs to be rotated with the key to remove it.


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It's not related to the steering wheel lock. I'm thinking it may be related to the button you have to press to remove the key.

 

Have you tried graphite spray lube to get it into the push button area?

 

Update.... finally got several days to get some stuff done on this car. The shifter issue was due to the plastic bushings at the bottom of the shift lever being gone. Replaced and nice and tight. Replaced the pipe off of the cat and the muffler. Didn't get to the a/c unfortunately. Have an odd issue with the headlights, low beams are ok, turn on the highs and the passengers side goes out completely and both high and low are on on the drivers side. Factory manual shows power to the headlight relay, then splits to fuses for each light, then to the headlight common, the other side of the lamps go to the headlight switch. The switch switches the grounds to either the high or low beams. Is there a connection to the lamp module that isn't shown?

 

Is this a Canada car?

If not, the headlight switch grounds the high or low beam filament wire. Try using an ohm meter to determine if affected bulb filament (high/low) ground wires are actually grounded when you have these headlight issues.