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1995 Camry 2.2 lack of power on hills

  #1  
Old 02-14-2011, 01:55 PM
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Location: Newcastle/Tyne
Posts: 14
Default 1995 Camry 2.2 lack of power on hills

Hi Guys.
I have had my 1995 2.2 since new. 104.000 miles. Maintained regular. No real problems till now.
Recently I have been loosing power on hills or long drags it keeps going but I have the fear of stopping. Picks up as soon as off the hill. NO responce to Gas pedal on hills.
Engine revs seem to be limited to Circa 3k during power loss. Runs well on the usual round town roads. Revs do not just continue to rise.
Fuel filter...Plugs...Dis Rotor..Dis Cap...Air filter..Ignition leads have all been changed. New silencer fitted 2009 only 6k since then. Original lasted 14 years.
Starts FIRST time, idles good..NO engine lights on dash. Bit flat to accelorate.
It will Rev easy to 5k or so when on drive. I have contacted Toyota but only comment was "binding brakes " !!!!!! So no helpful advice.
I have read other reported faults. Choked CAT...FUEL Pump...Timing belt
moved..the timing belt was changed 40k ago.
Any advice where to go now. Advice on web says check FUEL Pump pressure at the connector valve on the Injector rail. I cant find that.
Is it fitted to a 1995.?
Any help appreciated...I am a competent engineer.
JohnnyUK
 
  #2  
Old 02-14-2011, 07:09 PM
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Posts: 11,617
Default

Are you sure it is the engine?

Trans slipping (torque converter issues) or trans not down shifting? What happens when you hold the trans in a lower gear and force the engine to rev higher?

Data for US cars (Japan and US made)

Check ign coil resistance:

Primary 0.36-0.55 ohm cold, 0.45-0.65 hot.
Secondary 9-15.4 ohm cold, 11.4-18.1 hot.

There is no tap off fitting on the rail. The union bolt holding the top banjo fitting on the can fuel filter is removed. Another banjo fitting is added on top of the existing banjo fitting and a longer union bolt installed (Toyota shops have a kit for this installation).

Using wire or a paper clip connect the FP and B+ terminals inside the small plastic box on the passengers strut tower to bypass the fuel pump relay when ign switch is on and engine off. Pressure should be 38-44 psi.

Remove wire or clip, start engine/idle. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator and block line to manifold. 38-44 psi.

Reconnect vacuum hose. 31-37 psi.

Stop engine for 5 minutes, pressure should remain at 21+ psi.

On the CAT issue, suggest a Google search on using an vacuum gauge to test the exhaust system for excess restriction.

Fuel system has a fuel pressure regulator controlled by manifold pressure on passengers side of rail. Excess fuel is routed back to the tank.
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-2011, 05:40 AM
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Location: Newcastle/Tyne
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Default Hi Joey P

Thank you for that reply.
I will get to what you suggest today/tomorrow and
report back.

I appreciate you taking the time to advise

Johnny UK
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-2011, 03:27 PM
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Default Just a liitle update.

Hi again,

I just had chance to check this out in other gears.
First..Switching the Over Drive out so in 3rd it was much the same.
3K Max flat.
I parked in a layby till i got a clear road and put it into 1-2 on
gear selector.
This was much the same 3k max or so flat.

I then selected D and got up to 40 or so on flatish road and Kicked
the throttle FULLY ..It did kick down presumable into 2nd.
And accelorated quite well to 4.5k then changed to 3rd.

I dont know if you get any clue from that.
I have been looking deeper into the Haynes manual.
And wondered if this Throttle Position Sensor needs checked out.

I had a service by my Toyota dealer some years ago on a 1985
1600 MR2..It was a real problem after that service..It tranpired they
had left one of the spade terminals off the TPS.
Its took weeks to sort out as its hid away. But I remember it well.

The Ignition Coil readings earlier need to be in K Ohms for the Secondry
NOT ohms.
I am sure you noticed that.

I have an idea of going to my Local Toyota place tomorrow and see if
there Diagnotics will high light some area.

In passing I checked the price on the Internal Ignition coil from them today so I could get the Part number it was 111.00 to supply.
Thats Circa US$170 give or take.
Just in case I needed to think that way.

Thanks again for your time.. We all appreciate you guys.

Johnny UK
 
  #5  
Old 02-15-2011, 09:16 PM
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Default

Yes, K ohms. Ops.

Try Rockauto for parts, they ship overseas but get a shipping quote first.

If coil ohm readings are OK, check coil for cracks. Watch the ign system at night for signs of arcing.

If the Haynes manual has the info you can check TPS operation with an ohm or volt meter.

TPS incorporates a switch that is closed in the idle position (blue wire) and potentiometer. 5v is applied to one end of the resistor (red), the other end is grounded (brown). The pot arm (black) sweeps between being ground (idle) and the voltage source at increasing throttle.

When switch is closed voltage a blue wire is 0v, when open 12v.

The computer monitors the TPS for open or shorts in the arm (black wire) only. If a problem here a code would be set. Voltage source is 5v.

Might ask at the Toyotanation website, more members, more cars, etc.
 
  #6  
Old 02-17-2011, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Newcastle/Tyne
Posts: 14
Talking Sorted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi Guys,

I checked out the TPS Throttle Position Sensor with a multitest meter
But no fault was found with it.

During the testing of it , it was required that the TPS 4 Pin Connector was
removed from it a few times so Idle could be checked.

No other work or adjustments were made at this time.
However when it was all reconnected the engine Idle was smoother.

Also trying the Camry on my test hill, showed that my problem had GONE.
It will pull up the 6K if I hold the pedal down.

I can only presume that one or more of the pins/sockets of the TPS connector had corroded some, looseing connecton back to the computer control system.

Removing the plug a number of times during testing the TPS must I feel of cleared this problem.

This is the only cause I can see may have caused my trouble.

Hope this comment may help someone else in due course.

Johnny UK
 
  #7  
Old 02-18-2011, 10:29 AM
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Default

Thanks for posting back with the fix!
 
  #8  
Old 02-19-2011, 03:18 PM
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Default

It goes to show that sometimes the littlest things can effect a car greatly.
 
  #9  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:52 AM
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Default

Hi,
YES indeed it seems to take very little on modern setups. I have ran around this last few days with it running up hills as it used to.
I have only noticed one thing I need to look into.
If I continue to keep my foot down as in a quick overtaking move..
It will drop a gear from OD..Pull well to 4K RPM then a little pause then it will pull to 6K VERY well. I cant understand this 2/3 seconds delay at Circa 4k. It does not have that delay at standstill. It may have been there for years and I have just not noticed.
It reminds me of Twin choke Webers in days gone by as the second choke oppened.
I will look back in the Forum to see if its been mentioned.

Cheers JOHNNYUK
 
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