Its pretty awkward trying to fit these prongs of the ohm reader onto the plugs. If the thing starts, have potential buyer again, LOL. surprisingly enough theyre interested even with the intermittent starting.. If not ill try again and see if i can jam it in there somehow to get a reading from the pins.

 

For some reason the doors windows and power locks arent working now? No more than 15 mins before the people got here the power locks worked at least.. Car started up tho.. ran fine, but idk if it will start back up

 

Best to just try to sell the car.

 

Thats the plan.. but with it not starting, no ac, and now with these issues with the doors.. Idk.. I did touch the plugs on the dizzy with my fingers tho. maybe that blew the fuse somehow for the doors? What about the dizzy probing?

 

If you probed with the ign off the fuses will not blow.

Connect each probe to a flexible insulated wire that is bare at each end. Then probe with the non-insulated ends.

 

So I tried to test it today. And even with flexible leads it was a pain in the *** to try to keep the connection solid. I ended up taking the distributor off the car. which surprisingly went much faster this time when I had the right tools. a 1/4 drive for the dizzy cap w/8mm and 3/8 drive with a 12mm deep socket.. off in like 5 mins. easy. I marked lines with paint marker to line it up and it seems solid.

I recorded a video of me doing the ohms readings because idk if My meter was on the correct setting. Or If I am getting the right readings or not. Also showing play in the shaft side to side. If you could check it out and let me know what you think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GI3F...ature=youtu.be

 

So, i just took a chance today and bought a junkyard distributor. Installed in my camry, and no dice. Luckily I forgot to plug it in! LOL. I drained the battery from cranking it all the times w/o the plug, so i had to hook up my booster pack. Started right up with power going to it!

I believe problem is fixed, because usually on startup, IF it starts, chk engine light flashes for a second then turns off.

Following install, no issues whatsoever of chk engine light coming on, and starts in first few revolutions of the motor, as it used to, and should!

Good old LKQ.
I still am yet to figure out my power windows issue! I discovered I had a blown 30a fuse under the kick panel, replaced w/ new one, and it blew shortly after. any help?

 

The code 12 problem is now fixed?

If still having hard starting check plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, etc.

If power window issues and blowing the 30A fuse check power window wiring. Check wiring between chassis and drivers door. This wiring tends to fray with flexing from door opening and closing.

 

I believe so! All the times I've tried to start it since replacing, I havent seen the code flash and go away like it used to. Just starts right up no issue!

I just inspected the wiring to the door / chassis. Looks fine. the rubber boot has not even been touched it looks like. My power window control switch on the drivers side has always been loose with this door panel, allowing me to pull out the entire switch / plug attached to it. Inspected that, looks fine.. no frayed wires etc. What else should i check?

 

I pulled off the entire door panel, inspected wiring. No issues that would ground it out. Im at my wits end with this. what else could it be??