2001 Camry V6 Automatic transmission removal
Im at a loss. The timkin and National seals both have a shaft of 1.969 like 20027. Rock Auto lists the timkin, the national and the SKF 19556 for my car. SKF and Rock Auto don't show the SKF 20027 as being a compatible match. Rock Auto also shows an SKF 19578 as being a match and it has a shaft of 1.969. Seems all mixed up. Also says the Timkin and the National are made of polyacrylate. The Timkin and the National are also 2/10 of an inch thicker (width) than the SKF seals which might explain why it the 20027 I installed went in well past the lip. All this variation causes confusion for us rookies.
Last edited by whealthy; May 24, 2020 at 04:21 PM.
Transmission is ready to go in. Hopefully I didn't mess up the torque converter seal putting on the torque converter. It slipped in my hand while I was pushing the converter onto the shaft and the transmission was at a slight slant on the jack. The converter didn't want to engage with the transmission. I turned the converter while putting inward pressure on it expecting it to go in but it wouldn't go in. I lifted the converter a little while pushing and turning and it still would go so I jiggled a lttlle while lifting, turning, and pushing and it finally went in. Do I dare take it back off and check the seal? Is that possible without damaging the seal?
When I took the transmission out, I had a few issues with the dip stick tube and am worried I am going to have issues going back in. I looks like it is going to tangle with the battery holder on the way up. Does that tube come out? I saw someone take one out in an online video but the manual didn't say anything about removing it when I took it out.
When I took the transmission out, I had a few issues with the dip stick tube and am worried I am going to have issues going back in. I looks like it is going to tangle with the battery holder on the way up. Does that tube come out? I saw someone take one out in an online video but the manual didn't say anything about removing it when I took it out.
I got the tranny in and started torquing down the bottom three transmission to engine bolts. Torque in the manual said 34 ft-lbs. The long bolt torqued down fine but the other two shorter ones wouldn't. I got up to 30 ft-lbs and it wouldn't tighten down. I thought maybe something was stripped so I pulled one out and it looked fine but I probably didn't look close enough. I put it back in and it continued to not tighten down. I went to the second one and it did the same... and then broke off. Seems like it should take much more than 30 ft-lbs to break one of those bolts. I pulled the other bolt out and looked at it closer and it was stretched in the upper third. My only guess would be someone over-torqued them at some point and compromised the bolt. I just picked up a new digital torque adapter so hopefully it wasn't me. Curious if you have found issues in the past with toyota bolts having a history of showing abnormal fatigue at any point.
Here is picture of the bolt that didn't break.
Is it possible to get away with two bolts on the bottom, at least for now?
The one broken is the middle one of the three. I need to find a replacement bolt for this one and figure out how to extract the broken bolt at some point.
Last edited by whealthy; May 26, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
You sure the bolts are the right grade?
I don't know. They are the ones that I pulled out of the car. They have two dashes on the head, - - Apparently this is a class 6T bolt.
There is some info in the Service Specifications section of the manual, I am not sure what they mean by diameter. This bolt is 8mm if you don't count the threads. 9mm if you do. Looking at the 8mm diameters, only an 11T flange bolt would be torqued to 34 ft-lbs. The bolt has a 14 mm hex head with a flange. A 10mm 6T flange bolt would have a torque spec of 32 ft-lbs. If this is actually what is deemed a 10mm bolt, then maybe 34 ft-lbs would be OK?
Last edited by whealthy; May 26, 2020 at 07:34 PM.


