Does the rear crank seal cover need to be removed to install the rear crank seal? The seal i got didn't come with a gasket for the cover. I was just going to install the seal by working it in around the crank.

 

Driver's side axle seal from a side view

 

This is the driver's side seal. I rented one of those bearing kits from autozone and found one of the cylinders that fit just inside the flange. It seemed to be going in pretty well and then the top advanced below the lip and the bottom didn't. I used a half inch extension to try and tap the bottom side side in further. I guess I have two questions here: 1) Can the seal go too far in? and 2) as you can see from the picture, it appears I may have compromised the seal. Is there any forgiveness here, or will this seal probably leak. Thanks.

 

This is the passenger side seal. I notice it came with grease spotted in between the two lips. It isn't quite flush with the edge and doesn't seem to want to move further without more force.

 

This is the torque converter seal and it has about the same lip as the passenger seal. Not sure whether to try and make it go further down or not.

 

The boot was not leaking grease? .

Make sure the seals housing (metal or plastic section that contacts the hole) circumference is installed completely normal to the hole and not cockeyed. The seal can be slightly in or out of the hole as long as the lip rides on shafts smooth surface.

The axle and trans seal installations look OK. Suggest replacing the crank seal as don't know its condition first hand and if leaks it will be a major task to replace it. You may have applied localized pressure to the seal causing damage. Toyota seal installation tools have a lip that contacts the housing the seal is installed to stop installation at the proper location.

One can install the crank seal in a retainer that is either on or off the block. Install seal until its surface is flush with the rear oil seal retainer edge. Prior to installing seal or retainer/seal onto block/crank apply grease to lip section of seal to ease going onto crank surface.

The retainer to block seal uses a form-a-gasket material and not solid gasket.

 

The boot was not leaking grease? .
Not sure what you are referring to here. The boot that was torn was leaking grease but it was torn on the small end so the grease I saw was on the control arm. I knew it was the inner boot when I took it out but somehow it got switched around in my brain.

Suggest replacing the crank seal as don't know its condition first hand and if leaks it will be a major task to replace it.
I have a crank seal ready to put in. Someone had suggested taking out the seal carrier, installing it in the carrier and then reinstalling the carrier with the seal in it. The video I watched showed the installation directly without removing the carrier, or at least that is what appeared to happen. The video was edited and it jumped from taking out the seal to the seal virtually installed and some one was tapping on it to finish the installation. They didn't show taking of the retainer.

You may have applied localized pressure to the seal causing damage.
So it doesn't appear that the damage on the driver's side seal will affect the seal's integrity?

 

So a boot was leaking grease.

Can put the crank seal in either with retainer on or off the block. If taking the retainer off Toyota used liquid form-a-gasket as a seal between retainer and block.

Suggesting to replace the crank seal. The reason being can't state 100% if it's OK and changing a leaking seal once the engine is together would be a major job.

Look at the inner seal lip for damage or distortion as the lip rides on the crankshaft. You want a round none distorted lip to have 100% contact and equal pressure contact with the crank surface. You would not be the first to damage a seal. Have at times ordered more then one in case of needing a second try.

 

Suggest replacing the crank seal as don't know its condition first hand and if leaks it will be a major task to replace it. You may have applied localized pressure to the seal causing damage

The seal that is appears to be damaged in the photo is the driver's side axle seal not the crank seal. I took the crank seal out a while ago and haven't attempted to install the crank seal yet. Would you recommend taking this new axle seal out and replacing it again?

 

Would you advise emptying the differential and the torque converter of the ATF? I drained the transmission but not the differential. I know the person that had the car before me added something that was supposed to stop the leak. I don't remember what it was but it seemed to be something that is pretty popular for trying to stop leaking transmission seals. I think it was a Lucas product. With how much leaking it has done and with emptying the transmission, most, if not all of it, is probably gone, but thought I would ask for a recommendation.