How to remove a 1994 camry power train with its loom out from the top ...I did this alone in less than a day
motor manual gearbox and its loom as per repair manual /took me a few hours today and a black eye .
for the 4 cyl and the V6 almost the same

why: leaking rear main seal - -replace a $ 50 part @ trade price

why not from the bottom : not set up for it

why no pictures - most annoying seeing blank squares in write ups ..people move on or their account closes


Strange stuff .
you have to remove the engine loom plugs behind the glove box and extract them into the engine bay ( two 10 mm nuts and a rubber boot )
also three loom pins from under the engine bay main fuse box
the diagnostic box and metal thingy close to the fire wall

( a few things not mentioned anywhere )
a battery earth wire from gearbox
also a thingy bolted onto the middle of the firewall attaches wire to tps loom

Tools required
engine crane
floor jack
car stands
metric sockets 1/4 and 1/2 in sets @10 12 13 14 17 19 22 24
spanners
pliers assorted
screwdrivers assorted
tie rod removal tool
Clutch aligning tool
deep socket for CV dive shaft outer nuts 3/4 drive
several ice cream containers for bolts for the undo sections
Rags
hand cleaner
Rattle gun that works
good tension wrench

Basic start for any motor removal
undo the battery and remove it and the under tray
remove with care the intake hose /air box /filter base and hose

Plan ahead

washer bottle remove
expansion tank remove
air con compressor stays connected but is unbolted from motor
powersteering stays connected but is unbolted from motor
clutch slave unbolts stay connected to master ,but there needs to be care taken before engine removal
radiator and fans come out as one unit

Start
undo bonnet washer hose to squirters from bonnet
remove bonnet
drain engine gearbox radiator fluids Radiator has a drain plug at the base unless after market
start removing the glove box under tray the lid and the plastic part of the glove box slides out towards you
just loosen undo outer cv nuts while car is on the ground split pins can be taken out if steel rims are fitted

if only have mags , you need some one to hold foot the brakes while you undo the nut when raised on car stands
undo the small little rubber mount on the drivers side top engine . two bolts ...the one that breaks every three months

support car chassis on front sub frame sides
support front on car stands (not too high)make sure there is room for the engine crane arms to come in and out with engine
undo 3 front exhaust bolts and the next two at the rubber mount past flex pipe ......if bolts are rounded expect a black eye

Removal of drive shafts
undo the metal strap of the inner boots closest to gear box
undo wheel
undo tie rod split bin and nut then release tapers..hit them with a hammer if you know you wont miss stuff the boot of the tie rod
undo the small swivel uni joint lower nut only connecting the lower control arm release and clear
undo calipers two bolts then tie up to spring with wire or rope
pop off brake rotor
undo the CV outer nut and washer
undo the three lower ball joint nuts (they should be tight )
with imagination and care separate the ball joint from the lower control arm
remove the drive shafts

The interum shaft remains the entire time you need to align it into the diff as the gearbox is mated back to the block

If you ever have to remove one there is a small problem
.....still trying to work out why this is not easy
( I wondered why on this car :a new rear engine mount ,gearbox seal and shaft bearing had been replaced as one repair bill )

The seal and bearings may be damaged every time .
a toyota design..there are two steel pins on the engine Block for the cast iron rear engine mount casting with four 14 mm mounting bolts

the two pins stop straight line extraction and this casting holds the rear engine mount.. I could not remove the pins (rusted solid )
In the book
I am really stuffed so might look into this another time
This maybe how it is done: the bearing has a circlip reading The Repair manual . I cant see it mentioned pressing the bearing in before fitting the shaft back onto a fitted box ....and bearing has a useless 14 mm grub screw in the cast iron housing

Engine bay removals undos Random list
alternator slacken only to remove drive belt .it stays
most of the loom plugs stay connected
heater pipes from motor
gearshift cables ..retaining clips are a pain
clutch slave unbolt only
power sterring pump one bolt from under has a nut one bolt from top no nut
air con pump three bolts
starter motor

To be done under car before removal
there is one bolt hidden above the front plastic splash guard for the front engine mount
undo the three bolts for the rear mount a deep socket is better
the four gearbox mount plates

Engine gearbox extraction
With a lot of care you have to clear the clutch slave (has some flex pipe) through the loom and wires and not let it fall apart back to the fire wall
take a final good look everything is disconnected
secure the loom so it doesnt drop or get damaged
the gearbox needs a small tilt down to clear the air conditioning pipes in the engine bay
have to watch the power steering pump and air con compressor stays out of the way and not hung up
Rest is common sense
Gearbox seperation
just a few 14 17 socket bolts
unplug two connectons at the back -think its the speedo and on at the top around the starter motor
no problems there
clutch flywheel

mark the clutch and flywheel position anyway ..helps with diagnostic
no oil on the clutch and clutch is good
or machine flywheel and fit new clutch kit
Clutch bolts low nm undo
flywheel will find the specs pretty tight
I used a Square pipe with two holes drilled and two bolts to secure the flywheel in place to undo the flywheel 17 mm

Rear Engine seal
Seal holder has no bolts on the lower part dont just pop the old seal out towards you
The housing has a fine lip behind that seal and it is rubbish aluminium

Prep
Clean all the oil out of bell housing
check fork bearing and fork movement

Refit
low set lock tight ,torque flywheel nuts
clutch refit a clutch aligning tool is the way to go

Gear box refit and interim shaft line up
(two People is great for this especially if one is a girl)
Engine/gearbox going back in problems
lost nuts and bolts - even with containers
the power steering pump refit (tight space to work)
the clutch slave refit under the wire loom
one earth wire of loom goes under one of the top 17 mm gearbox bolts

work to check
no loose wires ,bolts ,clamps or connections
must turn heater on for coolant refill and burp the system
gearshift cable clips secure
all fluid levels correct
drive belt tensions
wheel nuts tight
split pins in
all torqued up to specs where required

rest under the bonnet is common sense

What bothered me on this job
Car had been worked on within the last two months by " qualified " non toyota workshops
quite a few things .other stuff normal for the age of car But this .
passengerside CV nut hand loose to undo with cage and split pin intact

The lower ball joints refit
problem with the third bolt position correctly without stripping the threads
make sure all three are started ..(this one has had problems a different third bolt & thread was fitted before )
one safe way
so I used a smaller longer bolt washer and nut to close the gap of the third bolt
hand rachet up the two 17 mm special guided nuts ..then hand started the third then torqued all three

Connect everything up .. hope for no leaks, smoke ,sparks and it actually starts
Fit Bonnet

 

Great write up, thanks for posting!

How much time do you think it saved by extracting the complete harnesses versus disconnecting wires at each part?

 

Electrical Engine Bay Section
I can see the benefits and why its in the repair manual
works well for complete engine extraction only in this case replacing a rear engine seal
thought it was crazy .when I read it before starting this but

engine removal and gearbox with loom attached
All of the loom did not get in the way at all - for this rear engine seal replacement
none of the connections were unplugged only the gearbox when removed
no time lost or risk of damage to the wires or plugs
The loom for the alternator and injectors runs under and in between the inlet manifold at the back of the motor
only had to unplug two connections off the gearbox


For a head gasket replacement or timing belt different indeed
If you were just doing a head in the car that back section of loom for alternator and aircon needs to move
and you have to unplug all of the head related connections

Block problem at this age
head bolts threads strip out of the block at the rear bank of these engine when cooked
retapping is not always successful - we now just fit a tested second hand motor


Loom refit
.
because of age these cars -clips and wires are older so where possible i keep the unit connected and unbolted its support of the chassis.
.
this refit was quick .
Engine bay
Wires to starter motor
wire to aircon pump
one big black connection on other side of engine bay near booster (could be the dash loom )
two black single wires over timing cover push connect (earths)
the washer pump motor
the wire loom beside the battery just clips back in place
one earth wire for battery cable to bolt on gearbox below starter
earth wire behind silver box (is that the coil ) it has a push on but i didnt want to risk it so unbolted bracket
the diagnostic box near rubber boot - clip back on
i had to refit the thingy to the firewall hoses to rear of inlet manifold (wires included in TPS loom wrap )
two radiator fan motor s to connect
Air Filter box has a plug on the side
clip rest of loom back in reusable clips .

things to note

gearbox 2 push on connections .
1 front and 1 back - might be the reverse light and for the speedo

engine fuse box.
dont rush this.. check all is well before closing the bottom .
only 3 connectors might) be the headlights loom )to refit
and then close/clip plastic bottom of that fuse box -one bolt to mudguard
support clips for loom - next to battery
Connections behind glove box
Wires and connections went back inside through the fire wall with ease
refit fire wall boot tighten two 10 mm nuts
The 4 pin type connections are the 2 grey ecu plugs and two white air con and fan plugs
Glovebox refit
push the glove box part back in . two screws on upper part
3 nuts for the lid 10 mm
bottom plastic cover two screws

 

Can you explain loom refit?

 

yep all done

Thanks for reading

Members if you are ever going to do one of these write ups

make sure its fresh in your head or you have the car to refer to

You don't want your information to cost someone more money

Two things
the motor had an Idle low and hunt problem during startup and warm to open theromstate /heater
..thought it was the IAC but settled

I did the paper clip in the diagnostic plug trick and no fault codes
the cap lid has the pin layout so you bridge TE1 and E1 for the diagnostic engine light to flash the codes

Toyota OBD Trouble Codes –

 

Nice write up! Stickied!

 

Very nice write-up and in 1 day.


Great comment to members

Members if you are ever going to do one of these write ups

make sure its fresh in your head or you have the car to refer to

You don't want your information to cost someone more money