94 timing belt job (2200)
#11
Water pump new.
Both idlers and spring new.
Crank seal will be done tomorrow when I get off work.
Have oil pump seals but since no obvious leakage, want to avoid pulling oil pan and pump.
On the other hand, I realize now would be a good time...
What would you guys do?
I'd love to know more if anybody has insight.
#12
It's a plastic shield with a "U" shaped slot. There is only one removable shield. The engine should not require shifting around to gain access to pull off the crank pulley.
Have needed to replace an oil seal later on even though inspection proved OK during a belt change. A leaking seal is not uncommon. The seal is under oil system pressure when the engine is running. When it leaks it does not seep oil but has a steady drip when the engine runs.
Pump removal does not require taking off the pan.
If are going to replace the seal also pick up the preformed O-ring that goes between the pump body and housing behind it. The housing bolts to the engine block. The Toyota dealer seems to be the only place that stocks the 0-ring.
If the timing belt is off you should be able to replace the seal in a couple of hours if this your first time at it. If you need instructions, post back.
Have needed to replace an oil seal later on even though inspection proved OK during a belt change. A leaking seal is not uncommon. The seal is under oil system pressure when the engine is running. When it leaks it does not seep oil but has a steady drip when the engine runs.
Pump removal does not require taking off the pan.
If are going to replace the seal also pick up the preformed O-ring that goes between the pump body and housing behind it. The housing bolts to the engine block. The Toyota dealer seems to be the only place that stocks the 0-ring.
If the timing belt is off you should be able to replace the seal in a couple of hours if this your first time at it. If you need instructions, post back.
#13
Green spring = different procedure?
Thanks again, Joey...Haynes seems to differ on a lot of things...Starting to not trust it as much as the forums.
Here's another question:
So both Haynes and the Dayco belt kit instructions state that if I has a "green idler spring" on the car, I need to time it differently than if it has a silver spring (a 45 degree crank difference!).
Problem: Kit came with two springs - One definitely silver, and one more like gold - calling it green would be a stretch. Of course, the old one that came off was also this more-gold-than-green color...It leaves me with just enough of a question to ask before I button it up and crank it.
Anybody? Is this more-gold-than-green color commonly referred to as "green"?
I'm dead in the water until I know.
Here's another question:
So both Haynes and the Dayco belt kit instructions state that if I has a "green idler spring" on the car, I need to time it differently than if it has a silver spring (a 45 degree crank difference!).
Problem: Kit came with two springs - One definitely silver, and one more like gold - calling it green would be a stretch. Of course, the old one that came off was also this more-gold-than-green color...It leaves me with just enough of a question to ask before I button it up and crank it.
Anybody? Is this more-gold-than-green color commonly referred to as "green"?
I'm dead in the water until I know.
Last edited by mgray87; 09-17-2012 at 12:47 PM. Reason: acknowledged previous post
#14
All done thanks for the help guys. Next time will go a lot more quickly.
Regarding that damned spring: I just did what made sense: Crank TDC #1, Cam TDC compression #1. No idea what difference the tension springs make, but it runs great.
Regarding that damned spring: I just did what made sense: Crank TDC #1, Cam TDC compression #1. No idea what difference the tension springs make, but it runs great.
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