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94 timing belt job (2200)

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  #11  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:52 AM
mgray87's Avatar
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
There should be a removable section of inner fender in front the crank pulley. Once removed this allows access, no need to drop the engine.
Small plastic fender liner removed. That made it a little easier to get to the crank pulley, but still had clearance probs when removing that. Did I miss a bigger one?
Originally Posted by toyomoho
Once all the parts are off look for oil leakage from the cam, crank and oil pump seals and replace if required.
Cam seal replaced.
Water pump new.
Both idlers and spring new.
Crank seal will be done tomorrow when I get off work.
Have oil pump seals but since no obvious leakage, want to avoid pulling oil pan and pump.
On the other hand, I realize now would be a good time...
What would you guys do?

Originally Posted by toyomoho
Sometimes after the process is complete the engine idles poorly or barely runs, why?

If the belt change was done correctly after a few starts the engine will run normally again.
Good to know! Maybe ECU fine tunes ignition timing after a few starts?
I'd love to know more if anybody has insight.
 
  #12  
Old 09-16-2012, 01:17 PM
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It's a plastic shield with a "U" shaped slot. There is only one removable shield. The engine should not require shifting around to gain access to pull off the crank pulley.

Have needed to replace an oil seal later on even though inspection proved OK during a belt change. A leaking seal is not uncommon. The seal is under oil system pressure when the engine is running. When it leaks it does not seep oil but has a steady drip when the engine runs.

Pump removal does not require taking off the pan.

If are going to replace the seal also pick up the preformed O-ring that goes between the pump body and housing behind it. The housing bolts to the engine block. The Toyota dealer seems to be the only place that stocks the 0-ring.

If the timing belt is off you should be able to replace the seal in a couple of hours if this your first time at it. If you need instructions, post back.
 
  #13  
Old 09-17-2012, 12:44 PM
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Default Green spring = different procedure?

Thanks again, Joey...Haynes seems to differ on a lot of things...Starting to not trust it as much as the forums.
Here's another question:

So both Haynes and the Dayco belt kit instructions state that if I has a "green idler spring" on the car, I need to time it differently than if it has a silver spring (a 45 degree crank difference!).
Problem: Kit came with two springs - One definitely silver, and one more like gold - calling it green would be a stretch. Of course, the old one that came off was also this more-gold-than-green color...It leaves me with just enough of a question to ask before I button it up and crank it.
Anybody? Is this more-gold-than-green color commonly referred to as "green"?
I'm dead in the water until I know.
 
Attached Thumbnails 94 timing belt job (2200)-photo.jpg  

Last edited by mgray87; 09-17-2012 at 12:47 PM. Reason: acknowledged previous post
  #14  
Old 09-17-2012, 05:01 PM
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All done thanks for the help guys. Next time will go a lot more quickly.
Regarding that damned spring: I just did what made sense: Crank TDC #1, Cam TDC compression #1. No idea what difference the tension springs make, but it runs great.
 
  #15  
Old 09-19-2012, 08:31 PM
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That's good news!!!
Wish we can some pix of it
 
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