Thank you for pointing out to use the blocks since someone reading would leave that out. I did ( Harbor Freight). Nice piece of solid rubber.

Good idea for surface rust. I will do that.

I like your idea on some rigid supports.

Thanks on a great review.

 

One last thing. I drove it this week(lots of highway) and noticed a slight drag on the brakes. The rotors which should be shiny from use are not getting full contact with the brakes. The fronts are fine.

I took apart the calipers and rebuilding it now. These may be the originals.

Used a pancake air compressor (low pressure!!) to slowly push out the cylinder. The cylinder and inside caliper had surface rust only and just lightly wet sanded (150 grit) with pblaster as a lubricant to minimize scratches. The inside caliper had more surface rust and probably why the cylinder was not pushing in or out as easily as it should.


Purchasing the steel ring, seal, dust protector plus it comes as a kit with a few other items.

 

Thanks for the update!

 

I just rebuilt my rear calipers on my 1995 LE Camry V6 4 Wheel disc with antilock brakes . In the testing phase which means drive a few miles and return home (inspect), use locally every day( inspect), then highway(inspect). It is my routine and a little over cautious.

Below is not a procedure but general comments to help you out on a rebuild.

Issues that I had and uncovered on rebuild

1, Brake pads worn uneven – Kept originals after repair since still a lot of pad left

2. Rotors partially rusty which indicates pads not contacting rotor properly
(This were the first signs something was wrong with the caliper)

3. Brake bleeder screws both partially blocked upon removal – No cap probably caused contamination.

4. Sliders not moving well – Lack of grease, some dry rot on rubber bushings and some rubber bushings broke open.

5. Piston slightly rusted in a small section causing it to partially seize I think.

6. No side to side play with caliper meaning sliders not moving well. You should be able to grab caliper and should move in and out on sliders.

Lubricants used or equivalent

1. CRC Synthetic Grease – Used for everything on caliper rebuild except the caliper piston, seal, dust boot and any threads.

2. DOT3/4 Brake Fluid – For bleeding brakes and lubricating brake piston, seal, and dust boot on reinstall.

Toyota suggest to use a lithium soap base grease which was in the rebuild kit but brake fluid was easier for reinstall.

3. Anti-Seize Grease – for threads only

General comments on my procedure

Take picture or video of everything you take apart for reinstall.

Followed Haynes repair manual on rebuild. This is a generic manual (1992-1996) so some differences are not covered. Good diagrams but not too much text for install and removal. Looked at you Tube and our site.

Make sure all boots are seated properly which can be tricky and took me some time to figure out.

I replaced all rubber bushings, dust boots, etc in kit. Sliders and piston intact so no replacement.

Was able to cleanup minor rust on caliper piston and inside cylinder and reuse. Used 1500 wet sandpaper with pbblaster to minimize scratches but remove rust. I also used Novus 3 plastic scratch removal to address any subtle scratches. Piston pushes in and out of seal so surface must be scratch free.

Parts

Purchased part number 04479-33041 OEM Rebuild kit. The kit is very cheap on some aftermarkets but does not always include everything you need. I also received the OEM FOR $30.00 (double that from dealer) since it was an old/new part which means it was sitting on a dealer’s shelf or warehouse for a long time. Someone purchases the lot of these and sells them. Been using the same seller on ebay for a long time with no issues. Unopened bag but just a faded label and all parts as new.



Cost comparision

Me - $60.00in parts, lubricants, etc.

New OEM caliper - $300 each

Quality after market ( Rock Auto) - $ 90 each. They even sell economy ones for $25.00 each. Yikes.


I will do the fronts sometime but it will be much easier now with the experience on the rears.