Me bad!

The manual states 80 for the pan bolts (looked in two places). The torque chart states 69. The 48 is for another engine.

No wonder I never use a torque wrench for this small bolts as we now have 3 torque settings for the same bolt.

However if your stripping threads out on the engine using the proper torque something is not right.

Any type of lube on the bolt or hole threads, or under the bolt head can greatly increase installed torque. Such as oil, grease, anti-seize compound, perhaps silicone and locking compound. All act as a lube.

Although Toyota provides great detail as to how and where to apply the form-a-gasket. Unless absolutely required, myself would use a conventional gasket plus sealant for these types of things. Toyota uses sealant only to save the cost of a gasket and allow automated assemble which equals a major cost savings over millions of engines.

A gasket forgives a lot of issues with slightly deformed parts, non-uniform fastener torque and non-uniform sealant installation.

 

Toyomoho, in a previous reply you mentioned putting a "skim coat" of sealant on the oil pan gasket. Do you put a skim coat both sides? Or just the side that makes contact with the oil pan? And, since the main sealant (the 6mm bead) is to be located in the same place the gasket is, do I put the 6mm bead of sealant on top of the gasket (so the order is, oil pan - gasket w/skim coat on pan side - 6mm bead of sealant - engine block)?

If that is the case, is it wise to put the skim coat of sealant on the oil pan side and let the sealant cure before applying the main 6mm bead and installing?

 

Cut the head off of a 6mm bolt (with 1.0 pitch). Screwed it successfully into the hole and applied JB weld high-strength thread locker. Let it cure for three days, tried to thread the nut on to torque and I barely threaded the nut snug (and I mean barely) and the entire make-shift stud started turning. I guess that thread locker stuff either doesn't work, or the threads on that one bolt hole are just stripped to nothing.

It's the last hole, and I have 2.5" to work with. Instead of buying a pork chop drill or something else expensive, can't I just try to put a 7mm x 1.0mm bolt in there? Let me know your thoughts on that and my question about the pan sealant. Thanks guys.

 

Are you using a gasket and sealant or just sealant? If just sealant apply per manual directions.

The drill size for a 7 mm bolt is 6.1 mm, then the tap cuts the threads to slightly under 7 mm. A 7 mm thread may not fit. Perhaps if the threads are stripped can tap to 7 mm.

 

I'm using a gasket and sealant.

Not sure what the heck to do at this point. The make-shift bolt I used may have been at a 1.25 pitch. Would that make it turn after the thread locker cured?

 

If using gasket and sealant, apply sealant as suggested. Toyota directions are for sealant only, not gasket.

As to the bolt, the hole threads may be gone. The bolt threads may have nothing to grip.

Might try finding a 7 mm x 1.00 tap and tapping the existing hole. Many taps are less then 2.5 inch.

 

Back on 3/10 you suggested a gasket and a sealant. But, I would be more than happy to do just sealant. Makes the job easier. I didn't understand why the auto parts store had a gasket for it anyway.

You also said on 4/9 that you would not recommend doing a 7mm tap in a 6mm hole?

What I've done is buy an offset adapter and a stubby drill bit. I'm going to attempt to cut the drill bit by an inch and then just drill the hole. I'll have to cut the tap, too. Then I'll cut the insert tool and insert the coil.

 

Toyota uses sealant only to save gasket cost and allow automated sealing. A robotic device applies the sealant in a precise manor to a new part.

A gasket functions better as it doesn't need to be installed as accurate as sealant only and can compensate for a slightly bent pan mating surfaces. Plus using a gasket alone, there is no waiting period for any sealant to cure which a repair shop might not want to do.

I didn't recommend putting a 7 mm bolt into a 6 mm hole without taping the hole to 7 mm. The tap cuts into the hole walls to allow the 7 mm bolt threads to fit.

Post back on your results with the adapter and drill bit.

 

It sounds like I should use just a gasket (but with a skim coat of sealant on both sides). I'll post again after my offset adapter attempt. Thanks again.

 

I would use a gasket plus sealant as insurance against leaks plus don't need to follow the Toyota sealant application spec to the 1/100 of an inch.

The skim coat is just habit from fay surface sealing in industry where a leak is a major concern.