trying to remove the timing belt cover to replace the 2.2 water pump.
Can't get the 2 lower bolts loose to remove the belt top cover.
Are they stuck or is there a trick to it?
Only 2" clearance between the bolts & frame; can't get a socket on them and have room for a rachet or breaker bar. Can't get enough leverage on a box wrench to break them loose.
What'm I missing? this can't be this hard.
thx

 

A socket will not fit.

Might try finding a box wrench that fits snuggly on the bolt head. Use an second open end wrench engaged into the open end side of the box wrench for extra leverage. You may need to pick and choose the size of the second wrench so that it engages the first without popping out.

Don't use an open end wrench on the bolt head or you risk rounding it over

Once all bolts are loose, you can take them out because of the clearance problem. Fully unscrew the furthest bolt from the engine first otherwise it will get into the way of the closer one.

 

Thx Joey
I see my post didn't say it's a '95 Camry/ a/t .... 230,000 miles.
I'm using a 14mm box wrench after seeing there wasn't clearance for a socket. Wouldn't use an open end as i'd have to pull the motor if I did round the corners off. Stupid engineering to me. I'll keep working at it to try getting both loose.

 

Have done the same job on this year of car. You need to get leverage on the wrench.

If possible cut off the open end portion of the wrench and slide over a section of pipe etc, to get leverage? If there is a tool store in the area you may be able to find such a tool already made.

 

agree on getting leverage. Wondering if the firewall side bolt is as tough or if it'll just come loose. Trying vice grips as a breaker bar n' a bottle jack today though I'd not considered cutting off the other end of the wrench to slip a bar over the end.
Thanks for the idea

 

The bolt torque is 52 ft-lbf so keep this in mind.

 

whats the make and model of your car?It still depends on it.

 

put this in an earlier post ..... '95 Camry LE 2.2 liter/auto trans ..... 230,000 miles ...... about 15,000 miles on current timing belt.

Understand @ 52ftlbs on the bolts it'll take leverage to break them loose. Also tells me I needn't worry about breaking the bolt heads off reefin' on them.

?; my torque wrench will need the same amount of room I don't have now for a socket and breaker bar to retighten the bolts. Do I just get them tight as I can on reassembly as there's not room for socket and rachet between bolt heads and frame? Bolts still not loose, this can't be this hard.

Ah, for front facing motors where none of this is an issue on an otherwise easy job.

 

Assuming the bolts are not some how frozen solid to the engine (never heard of this happening) you will not break them. Again use a box wrench that fits snugly.

Now that I remember I used a 5 point box wrench from Sears!!!! Very important as the 8 point was starting to round over the bolt head. After bolt removal I tossed the old bolt for a replacement I had in my metric fastener junk box. Sears was the only local place that offered a 5-point metric box head wrench in the size I needed. Cost was under $9.

Thus added to the suggestion to use a box wrench if possible use a 5-point box. This will firmly grip the head and be your BEST insurance against rounding over the head.

You will never get a torque wrench on the bolts thus just do you best to tighten them. No one I know uses one at this location and no has complained yet about having problems with the mount staying attached.

 

Thx Joey for the info. I'll never forget, once I get this, how I did it