Hey guys, I'm new here and got a few questions (I did some searching first, just want to confirm). I got a 97 camry 4-banger for 500 bucks after an idiot in a LEXUS plowed in the back of my tank (94 Explorer) without insurance mind you, hurray uninsured motorist, and totaled it. I am quite knowledgeable about cars and mechanics and have a few questions about working the querks out of this car. First of all, previous owner who had no idea at all on how to fix a car, managed to break both door handles on the outside drivers side...so I have duct tape working now. I moved an inside door handle to the drivers door to fix that one, but need another for the rear. Used to have a wing... so now my trunk is holy and leaks water. He managed to break BOTH side view mirrors off, but luckily BOLTED the old one back on drivers side... Passenger is MIA. Rearview mirror broke off, with some glass still attached, never seen that before. Missing a hubcap, and the inside is pretty stained, and dents everywhere. But what can you say, its 500 bucks. The motor has 269,000 miles but still runs strong, ac is freezing. The tranny shifts great if sometimes slow to go OD. My fiance has a 2001 so I am used to working/driving one and love it so far. My father and I replaced the rad to get it running. Now the big problems:

It has a pretty awesome leak coming from the timing cover running onto the oil pan, when running. From research I can assume it is either the front seal, or a seal behind the oil pump. Is this safe to assume? The only thing that bothers me is that the timing belt was "replaced" at 230,000. I can only assume they would take care of seals while there. If I leave it idleing, it can pool oil up pretty quick. Im leaking about half a quart a week. Also, we use exclusively Castrol 20W-50, its heavy, but we have nothing with less than 130,000 miles on it. Even have a '80 Corolla at 375,000. Would a heavier weight like this stem the flow or not make a difference. I am capable of changing the timing belt and the like, but how much time will it consume? Anyone done it in less than 4 hours?

I have gremlins in the electronics, had to replace 5 fuses to get most everything working, but still wierd stuff is happening. My left blinker works fine with the hazards, but goes turbo mode on just the blinker, now a week later the right felt lonely and started doing it too. All bulbs work fine, maybe the relays?

After changing fuses and such CEL went off, now back on with an EGR code. Insufficient flow. I had to replace the sensor on the Ford, is this just a sensor or the whole valve?

What Octane do you guys run... manual says 87 is fine, with a 500 buck car, thats all Im gonna run.

Thanks for listening, sorry for the long post, but wanted to accomplish as much with the least effort!

 

Congrats on getting the car back in shape.

To check for a bad oil pump seal, remove the passengers tire and block the car. Start the engine and watch the area above and to the back (back of car) of the crank pulley area. If it is the oil pump seal, you should be able to see the oil start to flow out of this area below the oil pump.

If the oil pump seal would suggest changing it. The can leak 1/2 quart per day, you don't want to run out of oil.

The cam and crank seals can also leak.

To change out the pump seal you will need to remove the pump (pump only not the housing behind it). Then unbolt and remove the drive pulley and remove the drive shaft. The seal is then easily replaced. Suggest you also replace the large preformed O-ring between the pump and housing (this is a Toyota only part). When reinstalling the pump gears make sure the small dot on gears are facing the same direction.

Plan to spend a couple of hours doing this job.

When everything is apart also check the cam and crank seals for leakage.

The issue with blinker could be the flasher unit, location is typically drivers side kick panel.

EGR issue could be several problems, start by cleaning the EGR valve and the small pipe going to it that carries the exhaust gas. Typically these get clugged with carbon.

87 octane is fine.

The AutoZone website at www.autozone.com should have shop info on this car.

 

One more issues is check the trans fluid, if black change it. If doing a drain and refill the torque converter holds 2/3 of the fluid. As such you will need to do 3-4 drain and refills to change it all.

At this many miles suggest you drop the trans pan and clean the filter, pan and magnets. This is an easy job, the pan does have a drain plug.

 

Thanks for the fast reply, it does leak from the crank cover to the rear, suggesting the oil pump seal. I will look into the EGR issue, hopefully it is a quick fix. Maybe one day I will enter this beast in the worst cared for car contest... shes a beaut!

 

One more thing, while I am working on it, what also should I replace, I think I need to do the timing belt because of oil on it, are there other seals than the two you suggest? Maybe bearings?

 

If you want to get into it, change the crank and cam seal. You almost have all the items removed to access them.

The cam seal has access issues when removing and installing. You will need to remove the cam pulley (easy enough) and pull the seal. Installing is more difficult given the lack of clearance to work with in front of the head. You will see this when working on the engine.

I made a round donut out of wood and pulled the donut and seal in using a longer bolt and the pulley bolt treads on the cam snout. Or you can use a pry bar to push the donut and seal in. Just make sure the seal is evenly installed all the way around the hole in the engine.

The cranks seal is straight forward.

The timing belt may not have oil on it. If it was changed shortly ago and you want to reuse it mark the direction of its rotation with an arrow then install it in the same direction of rotation.

If changing the belt suggest Toyota OEM as some other brands make a loud belt whine. Avoid NAPA belts. Bando is OK.

Check the idler bearing for roughness and ply, before taking the timing belt off listen for idler bearing noise. They rarely fail but most owners change them on the second belt change, say 120-180K miles depending on year of car (belt change mileage time).

 

Thanks for info: tonight might be the night to remove Timing cover 94 Camry weather permitting. Going to check water pump anyway.

 

If you want to get into it, change the crank and cam seal. You almost have all the items removed to access them.