My 94 Camry has not been running well, bad idle, dies on heavy throttle. I've already checked and changed the temp sensor, the fuel filter, and the throttle body. I did an OBD1 check last night and my car gave me 42, which I read was vehicle speed sensor. My speedometer runs just fine, but I read that there two sensors for my car, and if the speedometer is fine, it's the other one. I went out and bought one for my car, a two pronged one, which I got from Napa Auto Parts, part number VSS738. I've looked at multiple diagrams but I can't seem to find where this piece goes. In the attached image, arrow pointing with A seems to be where most diagrams point to, but that is a three pronged connector. Arrow pointing with B is something I'm not sure of, but no wires go to it. Am I looking in the wrong spot? Did I buy the wrong part? Is it a misdiagnosis? Thanks in advance.

 

Item B looks like a vent for the differential.

Item A looks like the sensor.

Speed sensor has three wires, purple, light green and red/blue. See link below for sensor listed having three connectors.

1994 TOYOTA CAMRY Vehicle Speed Sensor

If speedo works OK, the sensor works OK.

Could be the combination meter. You can run a test as follows:

-Remove glove compartment
-Disconnect cruise control ECU connector (see below)
-Shift trans to Neutral
-Raise up one front wheel off the ground
-Turn ign switch to ON
-Measure voltage between terminal SPD of connecter (see below) on chassis when wheel is rotated slowly. Output voltage will be a square wave from about 0V to 4.5-5.5V.

Cruise ECU plug is the one on the far right when you are facing the plug terminals and plug locking device is oriented up. The plug locking device keeps the harness plug locked to the plug on the ECU.

For federal emissions cars with manual trans the SPD terminal is on the lower row of terminals, second over from the far left terminal.

For other cars, SPD terminal is on the upper row, 3rd over from the far left terminal.

Note: Not all terminals hole actually have metal pins in them. Location reference is to the hole, not pin inside hole.

If no signal there is a problem with the combination meter circuit. If OK, there is a problem with the ECU.

 

Thanks for the reply. I actually tried to grab OBD1 codes again and it just flashes 1s, which I guess means everything is fine. I read here that if the car is 3 mph or lower, the system might read 42, which is what I got initially. I took the car out for a drive again and it's actually still dying on throttle and even choked a lot/died without throttle. That's my old problem that I have no clue what could be the issue. Could problems with ECU still cause that even though OBD read ok?

 

Did the check light come on or did you search for codes?

Does engine have the same problems, hot or cold?

Any circumstances where engine runs OK.

Engine idle OK?

You sure the code was 42 not 22?

 

I searched for the codes, no engine light came on.
Idle/throttle problem persists in hot and cold conditions, although worse when car has been on longer.
Engine idles OK for about 15 minutes and then idle drops and car stalls out.
Code was definitely 42 and not 22, but after grabbing again, it's just 1s for normal status.

 

A plugged up catalytic converter can cause bogging. You can check for excess exhaust back pressure by installing a vacuum gauge on the engine intake. The internet has info on this procedure plus the what gauge readings would look like if too much back pressure.

If the EGR valve is opening at idle or opening too much during throttle the engine will stumble and can die.

How is the ign spark, needs to be hot as in able to gap 1/2 inch easily. How is the distributor cap, rotor, coil, etc.

Suggest picking up a Haynes service manual ($20) to get some component test info. The AutoZone website may also have specific model test data in the sites vehicle repair guide section.

Could be lack of fuel from failing pump but check pressure first.