Everyone- Bought a 1990 Camry LE V-6 about 2 months ago. Has about 150K miles on it. drove it home from private seller her in Colorado. Worked great for a week. Started right off the bat.
Then daughter was out and car would not start. Hauled it home. Replaced all the plugs,battery, fuel filter,ERG relay, air filter, coil, safety switch,and ignition ignitor. Still would not start. Have some spark and gas. Took it to a local garage and had the distributor and mass air flow sensor replaced. Brought it home after another $800. Alls well. After one day car would start intermittently. Start 10 times and the 11th time no start.
Now today, no start at all. So after $1200 and many hours of work, we are back at the same point we were at 6 weeks ago.
So my question is. Where else should i go?? There is no camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor in this 1990 Camry. Maybe fuel pump that fails every once and a while.. Just frustrated because I am a part part time mechanic.

Any help would be appreciated.... Thanks

 

Appears an intermediate problem and not a complete part failure (perhaps as yet). Something may be sticking closed or open, not making contact, etc.

Does the engine always has spark, even when not starting? What kind of spark, should be white color and able to gap 1/2 inch of air?

When engine fails to start or does start, is engine hot or cold, sat overnight, etc?

Have you tried depressing the throttle pedal when starting?

The intake system may have a cold start injector. Location on engine side of throttle body and further down the manifold. The injector adds more fuel at cold engine and is on a timer to turn off. If not working, engine can have starting issues.

Check for major vacuum leaks. The EGR valve sticking open, PCV valve issues.

Look in the engine compartment for a small plastic box possibly labeled diagnostic. Inside are electrical terminals. Find the B+ and FP terminals and connect them with electrical wire. This will bypass all the fuel pump relays, switches, etc and allow pump to run when ign key is turned to ON. Turn on key and allow fuel system to build up pressure then attempt to start.

Make sure the injectors are always getting power and there is not a short or open wire. The injectors will always have power when ign switch is ON. The computer then grounds the other injector wire when time to spray to complete the circuit.

The throttle body has something called a IAC (ISC) valve. This valve controls engine idle by bypassing more or less air around the throttle body. Valve is controlled by computer via an electric motor. Plus perhaps coolant temp (check for coolant hoses to throttle body). If valve is sticking open the increased air bypassing throttle plate may cause starting issues. The valve can be removed and cleaned.

 

Wow- Lots to check out. I have to do some research with the car. I have answers to some of the questions.
1. Car will not start now but would start or not start when it was warm , cold left over night. Very inconsistent.
2. has white spark
3. I do depress the gas pedal when starting
Now I have to do the other things suggested. Just need time now to complete. I will get back to the forum when I have done the check out. Thanks

And I did choice the wrong garage. They want nothing to do with the car after all the part swapping. Lesson learned.

 

Keep us posted with what you find out, please.

 

I wanted to check the fuel pump as well. I know there is a entry point underneath the back seat. Can I gain access and replace the pump from this entry point instead of dropping the fuel tank? Would be alot easier and should take no time at all. Thank you in advance.

 

I wanted to check the fuel pump as well. I know there is a entry point underneath the back seat. Can I gain access and replace the pump from this entry point instead of dropping the fuel tank? Would be alot easier and should take no time at all. Thank you in advance.

 

There may be an access plate under the rear seat but manual states to drop the tank.

 

In all the years I have sold parts from the boneyard, wrenched on 'yotas, I have seen only 2 fuel pumps fail out of hundreds on that platform.

They don't start to work then stop then start.
If that is the behavior, it is a power issue, not the pump itself.

I strongly suggest stop replacing parts. Most of the listed parts have nothing to do with your issue.

Get the yota flow chart and follow it with a meter. If the car is in the no start behavior, perfect. Make sure you have power in the right places.

Also, we had one like this and it turned out to be a wasted keyswitch.
Drove two experienced mechanics nuts for a week before they found it.
Another thing...does it have an alarm in it??

If I took it to a shop with no start as a complaint and they took that cash out of me, they would get the car back without delay...and a demand to know why they replaced parts that obviously were not the issue.