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Power glass fuse blowing 02

  #1  
Old 03-27-2016, 10:22 AM
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Default Power glass fuse blowing 02

Fuse for sunroof and power Windows has now blown twice in one week, sunroof hasn't been used in either situation, both times I was rolling up both front windows when the fuse blew. Both times also I was using the drivers master switch.

Anyone have this problem before? First time it happened I pulled the drivers door panel to inspect wiring, everything looks OK. Didn't check into passenger side wiring yet. Was wondering if maybe the master switch is going bad and popping fuses. It's a $5 fuse so I'd like to blow as few as possible trying to find the issue.

Thanks in advance

Also does anyone have a link to FSM?
 
  #2  
Old 03-27-2016, 05:17 PM
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What is the name of the fuse that blows.
 
  #3  
Old 03-27-2016, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho View Post
What is the name of the fuse that blows.
Power no. 1
30a
 
  #4  
Old 03-28-2016, 04:45 PM
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It happens the wiring gaping the drivers door and chassis breaks down with driver door usage and flexing.

The frt passenger window is controlled by the master switch with power routed by two wires, green/white and red/blue going to the individual door switch. The motor is connected to the door switch by green and red wires.

The window motor return wire is not grounded. To operate the motor in either direction the polarity in these wires is revised by the master or door switch.

Each window switch also has a blue wire. This wire is always +12v powered with ign switch operation. This wire allows +12V to power the window motor independently of master switch operation.

The door switch is designed that if the blue +12V is routed by the switch position to operate the motor in one direction. The return (ground) wire will be one or the two wires that go to the master switch.

For up door switch operation, blue power wire goes to the green motor wire and routes back by the red wire from the motor to the door switch. Then by the red/blue wire to the master switch.

For down, blue wire power goes to the red motor wire and routed back by the green motor wire to the door switch. Then back to the master switch by the green/white wire.

For master switch window operation. The master switch sends power to the two wires revising polarity to achieve motor direction with the directional position of the switch.

For manuals see private message.
 
  #5  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho View Post
It happens the wiring gaping the drivers door and chassis breaks down with driver door usage and flexing.

The frt passenger window is controlled by the master switch with power routed by two wires, green/white and red/blue going to the individual door switch. The motor is connected to the door switch by green and red wires.

The window motor return wire is not grounded. To operate the motor in either direction the polarity in these wires is revised by the master or door switch.

Each window switch also has a blue wire. This wire is always +12v powered with ign switch operation. This wire allows +12V to power the window motor independently of master switch operation.

The door switch is designed that if the blue +12V is routed by the switch position to operate the motor in one direction. The return (ground) wire will be one or the two wires that go to the master switch.

For up door switch operation, blue power wire goes to the green motor wire and routes back by the red wire from the motor to the door switch. Then by the red/blue wire to the master switch.

For down, blue wire power goes to the red motor wire and routed back by the green motor wire to the door switch. Then back to the master switch by the green/white wire.

For master switch window operation. The master switch sends power to the two wires revising polarity to achieve motor direction with the directional position of the switch.

For manuals see private message.
My man! Sounds like I've got a lot of wires to check. Would a continuity to ground test on each individual wire be the fastest/easiest method to determine which wire/s need to be re ran?
 
  #6  
Old 03-29-2016, 10:29 AM
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What direction were the windows going when the fuse blew?

When you were operating both windows did the fuse immediately blow?

Or both windows operated then the fuse blew? If so could be one motor has an issue and drawing more power but not enough to blow the fuse. But when two windows are operated the current draw is over 30A.

A continuity check would work but there may not be a dead short.

For the drivers door, red and green supply power.

Passenger door, green/white and red/blue go to the door switch. Then green/red to motor.

When the door switches are not used, the power from the master switch goes through the switch and to motor.
 
  #7  
Old 03-29-2016, 07:11 PM
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Both times it was during operation of both windows from the master switch while rolling the windows up
 
  #8  
Old 03-30-2016, 09:46 PM
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A motor or regulator could be dragging. But there should a current limiter or timer otherwise the fuse would blow if the window switch were held one way of the other for two long.

When window is going up +12V through green/white wire to door switch and green wire and motor. The -12v back through red wire to switch then red/blue wire to door switch.
 
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