Power Locks inop 99 XLE
#1
12-26-2011, 07:48 PM
Power Locks inop 99 XLE
Hi, all.
I somehow managed to 'break' the power locks - they won't operate under any circumstances. Let's start at the beginning:
So, for Christmas we got my mom a remote start and keyless entry system for her 99 Camry XLE. She already had stock keyless entry, but I thought it would be easier for her if she only had 1 remote so I got the combined system.
Everything during install went fine, but the lock and unlock buttons on the new remote didn't work. I tapped the lock and unlock leads from the remote start unit into a dark blue/white and dark blue wire (respectively) in the orange connector on the bottom of the fuse box as per the wiring chart I have for the car. The locks still worked with the switch and the key in the door, so I tried to jump the wires to manually cycle the locks and heard a pop. All the fuses are ok, but there's a clicking sound from the fuse block, the seatbelt light is flashing and the power locks are completely inoperable.
What did I break and how do I fix it? Any ideas?
I somehow managed to 'break' the power locks - they won't operate under any circumstances. Let's start at the beginning:
So, for Christmas we got my mom a remote start and keyless entry system for her 99 Camry XLE. She already had stock keyless entry, but I thought it would be easier for her if she only had 1 remote so I got the combined system.
Everything during install went fine, but the lock and unlock buttons on the new remote didn't work. I tapped the lock and unlock leads from the remote start unit into a dark blue/white and dark blue wire (respectively) in the orange connector on the bottom of the fuse box as per the wiring chart I have for the car. The locks still worked with the switch and the key in the door, so I tried to jump the wires to manually cycle the locks and heard a pop. All the fuses are ok, but there's a clicking sound from the fuse block, the seatbelt light is flashing and the power locks are completely inoperable.
What did I break and how do I fix it? Any ideas?
Last edited by 99XLE; 12-26-2011 at 08:05 PM.
#2
12-26-2011, 08:52 PM
What brand/model of remote did you buy?
You might have damaged the integration relay. This relay combines functions for power locks and seat belt light. Location is behind the drivers side kick panel installed in a fuse box/ Is this the box that is making the clicking noise?
You might have damaged the integration relay. This relay combines functions for power locks and seat belt light. Location is behind the drivers side kick panel installed in a fuse box/ Is this the box that is making the clicking noise?
#3
12-26-2011, 09:25 PM
What brand/model of remote did you buy?
You might have damaged the integration relay. This relay combines functions for power locks and seat belt light. Location is behind the drivers side kick panel installed in a fuse box/ Is this the box that is making the clicking noise?
You might have damaged the integration relay. This relay combines functions for power locks and seat belt light. Location is behind the drivers side kick panel installed in a fuse box/ Is this the box that is making the clicking noise?
Yep, that's where the clicking is coming from. Sounds like it's coming from right behind the fuse panel.
Last edited by 99XLE; 12-26-2011 at 09:27 PM. Reason: clarification
#5
12-26-2011, 11:47 PM
The pertinent part of the installation guide, the 3 wire door lock harness, has 4 different setups, Ground Switched, Positive Switched, Ground Switched 2 Step, and Positive Switched 2 Step. I didn't want to use the 2 step unlock, so the red/black 3rd wire was omitted (clipped).
I used the wiring chart for the Camry from here.
Now, that chart says the lock/unlock wires are both negative, so I assumed that I would have to provide +12v to get the desired result, so I wired the Green + lock wire to Dark Blue/White and the Red + unlock to the Dark Blue at the orange harness below the fuse box. No result. I swapped the wires, tried again, still nothing.
Of course that's when I started messing around with the multimeter and jumping connections and fried that relay.
In reality, I should have just extended the wires all the way through the jamb to the master lock switch and attached them there, but the fusebox harness was right next to where I installed the remote start unit, and was much easier to route to.
Fail.
I used the wiring chart for the Camry from here.
Now, that chart says the lock/unlock wires are both negative, so I assumed that I would have to provide +12v to get the desired result, so I wired the Green + lock wire to Dark Blue/White and the Red + unlock to the Dark Blue at the orange harness below the fuse box. No result. I swapped the wires, tried again, still nothing.
Of course that's when I started messing around with the multimeter and jumping connections and fried that relay.
In reality, I should have just extended the wires all the way through the jamb to the master lock switch and attached them there, but the fusebox harness was right next to where I installed the remote start unit, and was much easier to route to.
Fail.
Last edited by 99XLE; 12-26-2011 at 11:54 PM. Reason: added last paragraph
#6
12-27-2011, 09:29 AM
For each door panel and key switch the unlock/lock wires are negative BUT.
The switch acts to complete the ground connection for each wire. If the switch is in one position, one wire is grounded, ditto for the other position. When the switch is in neutral neither wire is grounded.
No need for DC power.
As to wiring colors. Toyota has different wiring depending on wireless or not and who made the system, TMMK or TMC.
If the car has a wireless Toyota remote:
For the door lock master switch and RH door switch, wire colors are light green (lock) and green (unlock).
For LH key switch colors are red/green (lock) and blue/white.
For RH key switch blue (lock) and blue/white wires.
Blue/white wires appear on same circuit wiring but of course confirm with an ohm meter if required.
Completely red wires are 12V, stay away from these.
The switch acts to complete the ground connection for each wire. If the switch is in one position, one wire is grounded, ditto for the other position. When the switch is in neutral neither wire is grounded.
No need for DC power.
As to wiring colors. Toyota has different wiring depending on wireless or not and who made the system, TMMK or TMC.
If the car has a wireless Toyota remote:
For the door lock master switch and RH door switch, wire colors are light green (lock) and green (unlock).
For LH key switch colors are red/green (lock) and blue/white.
For RH key switch blue (lock) and blue/white wires.
Blue/white wires appear on same circuit wiring but of course confirm with an ohm meter if required.
Completely red wires are 12V, stay away from these.
Last edited by toyomoho; 12-27-2011 at 09:38 AM.
#7
12-27-2011, 05:03 PM
For each door panel and key switch the unlock/lock wires are negative BUT.
The switch acts to complete the ground connection for each wire. If the switch is in one position, one wire is grounded, ditto for the other position. When the switch is in neutral neither wire is grounded.
No need for DC power.
As to wiring colors. Toyota has different wiring depending on wireless or not and who made the system, TMMK or TMC.
If the car has a wireless Toyota remote:
For the door lock master switch and RH door switch, wire colors are light green (lock) and green (unlock).
For LH key switch colors are red/green (lock) and blue/white.
For RH key switch blue (lock) and blue/white wires.
Blue/white wires appear on same circuit wiring but of course confirm with an ohm meter if required.
Completely red wires are 12V, stay away from these.
The switch acts to complete the ground connection for each wire. If the switch is in one position, one wire is grounded, ditto for the other position. When the switch is in neutral neither wire is grounded.
No need for DC power.
As to wiring colors. Toyota has different wiring depending on wireless or not and who made the system, TMMK or TMC.
If the car has a wireless Toyota remote:
For the door lock master switch and RH door switch, wire colors are light green (lock) and green (unlock).
For LH key switch colors are red/green (lock) and blue/white.
For RH key switch blue (lock) and blue/white wires.
Blue/white wires appear on same circuit wiring but of course confirm with an ohm meter if required.
Completely red wires are 12V, stay away from these.
On another note, is there any way to bypass the Integration Relay to get the power locks operating until I can raid a scrap yard for a replacement relay?
#8
12-27-2011, 06:17 PM
Don't know why your initial wiring did not work. The manufacturers site is not very useful.
The site does have contact info, suggest you call or email with your concerns to the vendor.
The integration relay is mix of semiconductor logic circuits. You might be able to take the cover off and determine if any component(s) is obviously burned out but otherwise would be difficult to fix..
The site does have contact info, suggest you call or email with your concerns to the vendor.
The integration relay is mix of semiconductor logic circuits. You might be able to take the cover off and determine if any component(s) is obviously burned out but otherwise would be difficult to fix..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
