Ok....I posted the other day and was given some suggestions when I decided to tackle my timing belt project this weekend. I decided I would start with what I felt was the hardest part of this whole project....breaking free the crankshaft pully bolt. Boy was I right and then some. I decided I would start with my pneumatic impact wrench since that can muscle off just about anything. Well, after cranking on it with the air gun for about 1/2 an hour and getting no where, my father and I decided that there had to be something wrong with the gun. So I then decided to use the piece of wood bolted to the crank pulley as I've had suggested. Well, as it turns out, Toyota in all their infinte wisdom, only put 6mm bolt holes in the pulley (not 10 or 12 as another user thought)and guess what...I leaned all my weight in to my breaker bar and ended up snapping both bolts off in the pully. I feel like I'm officially up the proverbial crick. Does anyone have any ideas, because I am now 100% positive the crankshaft bolt is way tighter than the 80 ft lbs the book says it should be. How do I break something free that my air gun can't even break free?

 

If i remember correctly I just a breaker bar with the prober sized socket and used a piece of pipe for leverage. I was a pain in the a$$ and I'm a big dude (6'5" 320) but, eventually it came lose!

 

Well, it's Sat morning and I'm out for blood. I'm taking the car 2 my place of work where we have more air pressure for my impact wrench. Hopefully I can get the stinking bolt loose there...I will update.

 

Your not up a crick yet. Some owners have had the bolt break off or the treads strip out of the crank as some previous fool had used high strength Loc-Tite on the treads or over tightened the bolt and damaged the treads during installation.

Have had your problem on other cars. Most times the problem was solved by removing the starter and jamming a LARGE screw driver between the ring gear teeth. There is a low cost tool that bolts onto the starter area and has a prawl that engages the ring gear teeth to lock the flywheel.

Combine this with a 3/4 inch breaker bar and 6 foot cheater pipe AND putting my full weight on both managed to loosen every crank bolt encountered.

Once the pulley is off, try using a sharp chisel to get the broken bolts rotating back out. The bolts should be loose in the hole and just need to get them rotating.

Reinstall the crank bolt using anti-seize compound on the threads.

 

Ok...our air compressors on steroids @ work was enough to break the bolt loose there. I got the bolt out and have a connection to attempt to get the broken bolts out. We'll see if he can do it or not. I had to make my own puller that was a claw type, but it clawed on the inner part of the pully, not the outer. So, I'm on w/my project...taking a break now and checking on another "problem" i found w/the radiator...more specifically the trans cooling lines. On the radiatorwhere the trans lines go in at it is extremely rusted and it almost looks bad enough that it could start leaking at any time. Hopefully there's a post on here about that somewhere. I'd hate to fry my transmission.

 

The trans tube fittings should screw onto the radiator. Not sure where to get new ones, others have stated they are a "strange" thread. Might try radiator shops, find a junk radiator and remove them, etc.

 

How poreful is your gun? i have an 1200ftlb one one and that one worked fine

 

If i keep in mind properly I just a buster bar with the prober scaled plug and used a item of tube for make use of. I was a discomfort in the a$$ and I'm a big guy (6'5" 320) but, gradually it came lose!

 

I was a pain in the a$$ and I'm a big dude (6'5" 320) but, eventually it came lose!




---------------------------
Follow Your Heart on Downton Abbey DVD 1-3, Pursue Fantastic Space for TV Shows