Hello,

I had my motor mounts replaced by a friend/home mechanic on my 1998 Toyota Camry. Big mistake. He didn't order Toyota OEM mounts and now the car is vibrating badly when coming to a stop and when stopped at the stoplight. I called my regular mechanic, and he is saying that it will cost me $1167 to install the Toyota/OEM motor mounts and a transmission mount. He said the cost includes the parts and 4 1/2 hours of labor. Does this sound right in terms of the price to fix the situation? Thank you!

 

What is the engine type as in V6 or 4 cylinder? Plus is the car automatic or manual transmission?

For the lower front and rear engine mounts Toyota used a mount design that was filled with fluid called an "hydraulic mount". if a solid rubber mount was used this can increase vibration. Determine if the mount is hydraulic or solid. Rockauto.com may lists both types on the parts section with a photo.

The upper engine mount (called a dog bone) and transmission mounts are are solid rubber from either Toyota or the aftermarket.. Here it may not make much difference if a non-Toyota part was used.

Depending on vehicle specifics, the cost of all mount parts is around $5-600 retail for Toyota brand. The mechanic may get a steep discount on the price..

Consider replacing the front and rear engine mounts. The upper engine mount (approx $60) is easy and quick to replace. The transmission mount would be replaced when the engine is jacked up to change the front ones. This mount is around $120 retail. As stated the upper and transmission mounts are always solid and there may not be much difference between Toyota and aftermarket.

 

It is a 4 cylinder, automatic transmission. Yes, the mechanic (no matter which one) definitely gets a steep discount on the parts. The home mechanic that put the aftermarket mounts on the vehicle purchased them from a local auto supply company, yet he still received a deep discount. I could tell from the sales invoice. The home mechanic charged me $700 which additionally included the installation of an Aisin timing belt from Rock Auto. My actual mechanic, who owns an auto shop, now wants to charge me $1167 to fix the motor mount situation. This now turns into an $1800 situation which is a large pill to swallow. Lesson learned. I should have joined this forum sooner so I can learn about what I'm trying to do before I do it. Thank you so much. This information is extremely helpful. Is it safe to drive with the cheap mounts, or is damaged being caused?

 

One can't be expected to know everything. You assumed the mechanic knew their stuff.

The vehicle is safe to drive with the current mounts, no issues here.

Did the engines idle speed somehow change with the replacement mounts? This engine is known to vibrate at lower idle speeds. Idle should be around 700 RPM..

 

Thank you. I'm not sure how to test the engine idle speed, so I dont have an answer to your question. I would like to know!

 

No test involved.

Look at the RPM indicator on the dash and read the RPM. Engine warm, in Drive with brake on as like at a stop light. Check RPM with headlights on and off. The engines idle control should keep the idle RPM around 700.

 

I dont think the engine is warm, but I warmed the car up for a few minutes just for the heck of it. The RPM gauge on my car starts with a number 1 on the left and ends with a number 8 on the right. The number 7 and 8 on the right side are colored red like danger zone red. I did what you said and the car is idling one black mark below the number 1 (on the left) both with and without the headlights on. Maybe just a little below the black mark with the headlights on. I hope this makes sense?? Again I'll need to test it when out driving. I dont do a lot of driving on the weekends, but have a huge commute on weekdays.

 

The gauge with the red colored zone is the tachometer. It indicates engine RPM.

When out for a drive and say stopped for stop sign, stop light, etc. look at the gauge. See photo of gauge at the link below.

You want to look for the numbers 0 and 1 on the gauge which refers to 0 RPM and 1000 RPM. Between 0 and 1 are hash marks each indicating 200 RPM' 700 RPM would be 3 1/2 hash marks from 0.

https://autotechrescue.com/product/t...ometer-repair/

 

Fantastic! This is so helpful! Now I know how to read the gauge and I can test it when the engine is warm!! THANK YOU!!!