1998 Camry XLE 6 cyl./Auto - 85,000 miles, all fluids topped, but Engine Check light
1998 Camry XLE 6 cyl./Auto - 85,000 miles, all fluids topped, but Engine Check light remains on.
April 2, 2020.
Hello Fellow Toyota Fans!
Low mileage, been taking it in for service, the last oil change was last December 2019.
The day before yesterday Tuesday, after getting gas at Costco, on my way home I noticed the ENGINE check light came on.
Last December when I took it to Toyota for an oil change, they were supposed to top off all liquids, including,
(1) Automatic Transmission Fluid, (ATF)
(2) Engine oil change, and (SAE 5W-30)
(3) Engine Coolant,
(4) Maybe the windshield wiper wash fluid, or maybe not.
When I returned home, I left the engine OFF, for a few minutes before I checked the fluids.
The A.T.F. reservoir was below the MINIMUM HOT LINE, so I filled it up to the MAXIMUM HOT LINE. Re-started the engine, light still on.
I then filled up the Engine coolant, and also the windshield reservoir.
I unloosened, and re-tightened both the ENGINE OIL CAP, and the GAS CAP.
Re-started the engine, drove to the post office and to the grocery store, was on the freeway, to try and get the engine hot, but the darn dummy light still remains ON, when I returned home again.
PLEASE, was I very wrong to have thought all these years, that all Toyota engines and transmissions last for a few hundred thousand miles?
VERY LOW MILEAGE.....85,000 miles, and now I am very worried that this may end up costing me the only money that I have left in all of my life's savings, just to fix this problem.
Silly question, and in the realm of, "Stranger things have happened," but before I input all my AM/FM radio stations in my radio again, and seeing that all ATF, and Coolant fluid levels are ideal, and within range, AND IF, by dis-connecting and re-connecting my car battery, make it default again, can this reset my dummy gauges, and will no longer see this annoying, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT? Ha, I told you it was silly. I am NOT a mechanic, just a fifteen year disabled, rare tumor cancer patient on very a low SSDI income, and limited funds.Thank you for any feedback, or suggestions, I desperately need all I can get.I then disconnected the battery, the negative, for about ten minutes, re-connected, hoping something would re-set itself, and I was driving around for the next few days, with NO engine light, then I thought, yeah, it's working! Well, as luck would have it, the light came back on again.
Without doing any of the diagnostic, code troubleshooting stuff, I'm thinking this could be my O2 Sensor.
I do not want to be at the mercy of any mechanic, playing the, 'process of elimination' game, with limited money, (no doubt, like everyone else) and, being disabled, with a rare carcinoid tumor cancer, since 2005, during this pandemic, charging me for everything else, and including, a new O2 Sensor.
How much should this cost in Labor cost be? (Pre-Pandemic prices) but now, they need to make their money back some how, and without a full work schedule, I don't want to be their, 'open checkbook,' to pay for my repairs, and to pay all of their overhead, having far less customers now, than before.
After I read the, "remove negative- grnd," then I read another post who said to remove the positive+ cable.
Is there an easy way to pin point exactly what my problem is? I am not a mechanic. Nor can I afford to buy a Code reader, that I may only use once.
And finally, am I causing any problems to the car, or any of the onboard electronics, the ECC, etc., if I continue driving this car around, with the CHK ENGINE LIGHT on all the time, when I can not afford to have this repaired??????
Thank you ALL!
Stay Safe, and I do appreciate any suggestions you may have, to help me.
Stay Safe, Wash your hands, Try to Stay Healthy!
CamryJimmy
April 2, 2020.
Hello Fellow Toyota Fans!
Low mileage, been taking it in for service, the last oil change was last December 2019.
The day before yesterday Tuesday, after getting gas at Costco, on my way home I noticed the ENGINE check light came on.
Last December when I took it to Toyota for an oil change, they were supposed to top off all liquids, including,
(1) Automatic Transmission Fluid, (ATF)
(2) Engine oil change, and (SAE 5W-30)
(3) Engine Coolant,
(4) Maybe the windshield wiper wash fluid, or maybe not.
When I returned home, I left the engine OFF, for a few minutes before I checked the fluids.
The A.T.F. reservoir was below the MINIMUM HOT LINE, so I filled it up to the MAXIMUM HOT LINE. Re-started the engine, light still on.
I then filled up the Engine coolant, and also the windshield reservoir.
I unloosened, and re-tightened both the ENGINE OIL CAP, and the GAS CAP.
Re-started the engine, drove to the post office and to the grocery store, was on the freeway, to try and get the engine hot, but the darn dummy light still remains ON, when I returned home again.
PLEASE, was I very wrong to have thought all these years, that all Toyota engines and transmissions last for a few hundred thousand miles?
VERY LOW MILEAGE.....85,000 miles, and now I am very worried that this may end up costing me the only money that I have left in all of my life's savings, just to fix this problem.
Silly question, and in the realm of, "Stranger things have happened," but before I input all my AM/FM radio stations in my radio again, and seeing that all ATF, and Coolant fluid levels are ideal, and within range, AND IF, by dis-connecting and re-connecting my car battery, make it default again, can this reset my dummy gauges, and will no longer see this annoying, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT? Ha, I told you it was silly. I am NOT a mechanic, just a fifteen year disabled, rare tumor cancer patient on very a low SSDI income, and limited funds.Thank you for any feedback, or suggestions, I desperately need all I can get.I then disconnected the battery, the negative, for about ten minutes, re-connected, hoping something would re-set itself, and I was driving around for the next few days, with NO engine light, then I thought, yeah, it's working! Well, as luck would have it, the light came back on again.
Without doing any of the diagnostic, code troubleshooting stuff, I'm thinking this could be my O2 Sensor.
I do not want to be at the mercy of any mechanic, playing the, 'process of elimination' game, with limited money, (no doubt, like everyone else) and, being disabled, with a rare carcinoid tumor cancer, since 2005, during this pandemic, charging me for everything else, and including, a new O2 Sensor.
How much should this cost in Labor cost be? (Pre-Pandemic prices) but now, they need to make their money back some how, and without a full work schedule, I don't want to be their, 'open checkbook,' to pay for my repairs, and to pay all of their overhead, having far less customers now, than before.
After I read the, "remove negative- grnd," then I read another post who said to remove the positive+ cable.
Is there an easy way to pin point exactly what my problem is? I am not a mechanic. Nor can I afford to buy a Code reader, that I may only use once.
And finally, am I causing any problems to the car, or any of the onboard electronics, the ECC, etc., if I continue driving this car around, with the CHK ENGINE LIGHT on all the time, when I can not afford to have this repaired??????
Thank you ALL!
Stay Safe, and I do appreciate any suggestions you may have, to help me.
Stay Safe, Wash your hands, Try to Stay Healthy!
CamryJimmy
Last edited by camryjimmy98; May 8, 2020 at 02:39 PM. Reason: spelling
Wiper fluid is not monitored by the check engine system.
ATF, engine oil and coolant may set the light but only if the levels get very low (and most likely cause damage).
Call a few auto parts stores. Determine if any stores offer free diagnostic service to check for trouble codes. Takes just a few minutes.
ATF, engine oil and coolant may set the light but only if the levels get very low (and most likely cause damage).
Call a few auto parts stores. Determine if any stores offer free diagnostic service to check for trouble codes. Takes just a few minutes.
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