Hi, i have a 2009 Camry SE with 6cyl 3.5l (i think). I was passing someone at 55 mph when the RPMS came up a little and i noticed i had what seemed like no power. Seems like the transmission faded into nothin LOL. I bought a junkyard replacement and just got back into thinking about it and i wonder if any of the shift solenoids or shift position sensor are causing the issue. Car rolls in neutral and will not roll in park. Also checked the linkage and it is moving (I get that if the linkage was disconnected or broken it wouldn't shift from park to neutral lol.)

Are there any parts i should check before paying 1k to have this junkyard transmission put in? Aren't these supposed to be bullet proof??

 

The manual shift system seems OK. The trans has both electrical shifting (controlled by the computer) and manual shifting (controlled by moving the shift lever).

Does the car move under engine power in any gear such as low, second or reverse?

How many miles on the car and when was the last time the trans fluid was changed?

 

Husband dug into the car a little, fluid is bright red and doesn't smell burnt at all. It has 113k miles and to my knowledge has not had a fluid change.
The car will not move under its own power AT ALL but the RPM's do increase a bit when shifted into gear.

 

Husband wants to know if the module the shift linkage hooks up to could be out of adjustment causing a no drive issue?

 

There is no module adjustment. A rod extends out from the module (and transmission case) which connects to the shift lever arm which connects to the shift cable. Determine if the shift lever is still connected to the rod and that both the lever and rod move (rotate) when the gear selector is moved (shift cable is moved).

Typical if no forward gears or reverse then something inside the trans has failed. Its not a common problem but happens enough that its not uncommon.

If the car rolls in neutral and not in park then the shift lock pawl operation is OK. The pawl locks the trans when in park.

Could be bad overdrive clutch, brake, one way clutch or the differential but not a trans expert. If you seek a second opinion, find a shop that doesn't automatically want to replace the transmission (as is common) rather do some real diagnostics.

Not sure what your financial situation is, condition of the car or if you are planning on keeping the car. If you going to keep the car, are PAYING a shop to install a replacement, its in good shape and you can afford it, might consider paying more for rebuilt transmission. You will get a known transmission with some kind of warranty instead of who knows what with a used trans.

The cars mileage is not high thus wonder what caused the issue. Typically never changing the fluid is the reason. The trans fluid is not synthetic and has a finite life of say 50-75K depending on how the car is driving.

 

Isn't it suspect that the fluid is bright red and unburnt? is this common?


Also trading the car in, car is worth 600 without the transmission and 6k with it lol

 

Given the fluid color, it would be strange IF this was the original trans fluid. This is a LOT of miles on the same non-synthetic trans fluid without the fluid starting to turn dark. Even so called lifetime synthetic trans fluid breaks down as it approaches 100K miles (as many car owners have found out the hard way).

Have you checked the trans fluid level? This process is more complicated then just pulling the dipstick. Consult the cars owners manual or the internet. If you don't have an owners manual you can download one at toyota.com.

If the shift arm on the trans is moving the shift rod which goes inside the transmission case then the issue appears to be inside the transmission. This is confirmed by the shifter locking the trans up when in Park. The trans pan can be dropped easily enough to inspect for obvious internal issues plus metal debris in the pan.

As stated the trans has both electric and manual control of the gearing. The manual use of the shifter (L to D and R) should move the valving in the trans module to mechanically change the hydraulics and with this the gearing.

It has happened (extremely rare) that the torque converter flex plate becomes unbolted from the engine crank (trans is no longer connected to the engine) but you stated the car tries to slightly move when you gun the engine.

If you have the model of the transmission you may be able to find specific diagnostic info on the internet. The trans model should be listed on a sticker on the side of the drivers door. Something like trans model A-541E.

If your trading the car in and the $600 and $6K are real figures then suggest installing a used transmission to get the higher value. Take note that used cars in good condition with low miles are bringing crazy prices due to Covid 19 issues. My guess? is the trading dealer wants a running car to sell quickly but will take the car at a bargain price if they need to, to sell you that new car.

My own two cents is if you like the car and its in good shape to keep it. The 1999 is one of the best Camry made. Solid, easy to work on, no complicated electronics which can be costly to repair. If maintained the car runs and runs.