So I have a 2.2L 98 Camry, automatic. My D light was blinking then stopped. Thinking of doing a transmission filter replacement and fluid change. What type of atf is best? Stick to genuine Toyota brand? Also not sure if my shifter sticking is related? Have to almost use two hands to change it to Park, Drive or reverse. Thanks for any tips.

 

Inspect the trans exterior shifter system for possible problems. A push pull cable runs from the shift lever inside the car to the arm on the trans gear change input shaft. You can see this arm on the trans from standing outside the engine compartment. Make sure the shifter and cable are free to move. One can disconnect the cable at the trans shifter arm to then test the lever and cable for free travel.

The trans input shaft has a cam plate on it located inside the trans housing. This cam plate edge rides on a spring loaded ball. The cam, ball and spring act to keep the shaft in place once a gear is selected as the ball rides in the detents of the cam. One can inspect this system by dropping the trans pan.

The trans uses Dexron III which is now called ATF fluid and other names. Dexron is a General Motors licensed product but GM stopped licensing it thus it is now sold under ATF fluid or MD3-ATF, etc. Its a very common fluid and no need to go to the dealer. Any decent auto parts should sell it. Tell the store employee you want whatever Dexron III is now called. Chevron makes a MD-3 but there a other brands. Dexron III is not synthetic thus the life is shorter.

If you going to change the fluid look into using the method of disconnecting the trans fluid output line going to the cooler on the trans to force out the fluid from the trans into a bucket. One can change the fluid in the pan then start the engine in Park to force the new fluid through the trans and old fluid out into the bucket. Stop the engine after a couple of quarts come out and refill the trans approximately the same quantity. Repeat this until the trans fluid coming out is clear which is 8-10 quarts total for the change. One done accurately check the trans fluid and adjust as required. This changes all the fluid not just what is in the pan.

Not sure what the blinking D light means. There is a rotary electrical switch on the trans shifter input shaft. As the shaft rotates with the push pull cable via the inside car shift lever the switch changes wiring connections to the indicator light on the dash corresponding to the gear selected by the shifter inside the car.

The car does have a self diagnostic system for the trans that can be access via the OBDII port the same as any engine codes could be accessed.

 

I just did an engine swap in a 2001 4 cyl Camry. Engine runs fine. trans will not engage in any gear. I thought that I'd failed to adequately install the torque convertor. so I pulled the engine/trans out again, very carefully unplugged the Torque Convertor and re attached it to the trans, getting three solid "clunk" sounds as it eventually became seated. After the torque convertor was installed, there was not any finger room in the bell housing. I am confident that it is fully seated.

• Reattached it at the flex plate, no issues, all the spacing was easy, no forcing, just nuts and bolts.
• I've done dozen of engine pulls, several Auto transmission overhauls, nothing new there. (BMW trained mechanic)
• When I fired it up, it ran immediately, idled and revved no sweat, but would not, will not engage.
• The trans worked AOK before the engine swap.
• I did a trans fluid and filter change, no action.
• Information that I've had dictates 2.6 quarts of ATF. That's exactly what I put in, verified the amount after running for several minutes, reading a little high on the stick. I did not do the 8 to 10 quart flush. Maybe should have.
• I pulled the Park/Neutral selector switch, disassembled cleaned, tested for continuity reinstalled, no change.
• The reverse lights do operate when the shifter is in the "reverse" position.

I'm wondering if there is/could be something in the main wiring harness, under the dash behind the glove box that might not allow instructions to get to the trans. My thinking is that it might be the case if the trans is "told what to do" by an onboard computer and then activating internal solenoids to make the shifting actually happen. I don't know, so I'm asking for help.

Any thoughts on where else to look for a solution to this is greatly appreciated.

many thanks

 

Did you happen to drain the oil out of the torque converter, if so it does not self-prime.

If the torque converter was not engaged with the tangs it would have been driving back into the trans oil pump to possibly damage it.

The manual used a straight edge on the bell housing to measure converter depth. See private message.

The trans has electric solenoids but the shifter can manually move the valving to select a gear.

Is the shift lever arm on the trans moving in sync with the shifter in the car?

Can you move the vehicle by hand when in neutral?

Are the driveshaft fully installed into the differential?

Does the R for reverse on the dash come on in reverse? The trans may have a separate backup light switch on the case or use the rotary switch on the shift arm coming out of the trans. The wiring to the backup lights can break due to flexing where it gaps the chassis to the trunk lid.

 

Did you happen to drain the oil out of the torque converter, if so it does not self-prime.
.....Not sure, maybe. it's been a long time since it was on the road. << Most likely cause, I think.
If the torque converter was not engaged with the tangs it would have been driving back into the trans oil pump to possibly damage it.
.....Nothing forced, three solid "clunk" sounds/movements
The manual used a straight edge on the bell housing to measure converter depth. See private message.
.....Did thjat, no conflict of measurements
The trans has electric solenoids but the shifter can manually move the valving to select a gear.
.....The shifter goes through the full range of gears without issue
Is the shift lever arm on the trans moving in sync with the shifter in the car?
,,,,,I did adjust the shifter to engage the positions correctly, indicator lights are correct, backup lights work as they should.
Can you move the vehicle by hand when in neutral?
.....Yes, rolls easily
Are the driveshaft fully installed into the differential?
.....Yes, plugged in to their respective U-joints
Does the R for reverse on the dash come on in reverse? The trans may have a separate backup light switch on the case or use the rotary switch on the shift arm coming out of the trans. The wiring to the backup lights can break due to flexing where it gaps the chassis to the trunk lid.
.....Reversing lights work in their correct lever position.

 

Can I feed new ATF into the trans through its cooler lines and fill/prime the Torque Convertor that way instead of pulling the whole engine/trans again?

Your thoughts?

 

Don't know.

Per the Toyota shop training info diagram the fluid return from the converter goes to the cooler when the torque converter is unlocked. One condition for locking is a vehicle speed over 40 mph.

One line from the cooler goes to the internal trans system and other to the trans pan. One can blow air into the trans pan hose and hear it move into the pan.

The trans holds some 6 quarts thus approx 4 in the converter.

If you received the info in the PM suggest you run whatever trans tests listed before taking anything apart just in case its not a converter issue.