My mechanic gave me a $1,700 repair bill!
#1
My mechanic gave me a $1,700 repair bill!
My car is a 2001 Camry with 60,000 miles on it. Here is the damage with reasons given:
1) The front engine seals are beginning to "seep". Not leak mind you, but they will soon. When it starts leaking, it will spew oil all over the timing belt, and then it will eventually fail. So that will take $776 to repair.
2) Since they working in this general region of the car, I should get the timing belt replaced ($61), as the labor covers. All well and good, as they have to take it out anyway.
3) But they insisted the water pump MUST be replaced with the timing belt...every time. When I told them I did not do this when I replaced the belt around 45,000 miles (now have 60M), they said there was no way the water pump would last until I had to put in a new timing belt anyway. It could fail at any time! (Cost $380).
3) Front pads for the brakes, which makes good sense to me. They have never been replace before ($120). About two years ago, I was told by a Toyota dealership that I had about 60% left. Now 20%. Must be replaced.
4) But the rotors must also be replace at the same time. They are rusty (the car is a 2001). I asked him it this means they would fail, and he backed all the way off from that implication. But...they are rusty. Besides, the rotors will not perfectly match with new pads, so the braking might be a bit "uneven", whatever that means. ($360)
Total bill: about $1,700.
How much of this seems necessary, and how much is...well...maybe not so necessary?
I can totally see the pads. As for the rest I am not so sure.
1) The front engine seals are beginning to "seep". Not leak mind you, but they will soon. When it starts leaking, it will spew oil all over the timing belt, and then it will eventually fail. So that will take $776 to repair.
2) Since they working in this general region of the car, I should get the timing belt replaced ($61), as the labor covers. All well and good, as they have to take it out anyway.
3) But they insisted the water pump MUST be replaced with the timing belt...every time. When I told them I did not do this when I replaced the belt around 45,000 miles (now have 60M), they said there was no way the water pump would last until I had to put in a new timing belt anyway. It could fail at any time! (Cost $380).
3) Front pads for the brakes, which makes good sense to me. They have never been replace before ($120). About two years ago, I was told by a Toyota dealership that I had about 60% left. Now 20%. Must be replaced.
4) But the rotors must also be replace at the same time. They are rusty (the car is a 2001). I asked him it this means they would fail, and he backed all the way off from that implication. But...they are rusty. Besides, the rotors will not perfectly match with new pads, so the braking might be a bit "uneven", whatever that means. ($360)
Total bill: about $1,700.
How much of this seems necessary, and how much is...well...maybe not so necessary?
I can totally see the pads. As for the rest I am not so sure.
#3
You say the seep is not a leak. Look under the front of engine (right side of car). see if you have a seep or a leak. If you have no dripping oil then leave it alone and wait for a leak. Clean all visible oil and dirt with engine cleaner and look at it after a couple days and see what you really have. The seals, belt, and water pump seem a little high and I would get a quote from an independent garage before doing the work. Change the cam seal while you have the timing belt off. That is maybe 15 minutes more work. If you need to get the bottom seal changed change all those items. Maybe even the oil pump seals. The camshaft seal (if that is where the leak/seep is) can be changed by itself without all the other drama.
Brakes are not hard but that does not mean easy for you. You know your own level of skill better than anyone else. You can buy rotors for less than $100 and pads for maybe $30. (guessing) Rust on the rotors is not a problem. The new ones will rust too. You can get them turned if they are warped but Toyota rotors are thin anyway and you cant cut much warp out of them. There is just not enough metal there. Besides Toyota rotors and aftermarket pads don't always play nice. My friend that owns a shop says that most times this combo squeals after a week or so. He suggests rotors and pads or Toyota pads if rotors aren't changed.
Brakes are not hard but that does not mean easy for you. You know your own level of skill better than anyone else. You can buy rotors for less than $100 and pads for maybe $30. (guessing) Rust on the rotors is not a problem. The new ones will rust too. You can get them turned if they are warped but Toyota rotors are thin anyway and you cant cut much warp out of them. There is just not enough metal there. Besides Toyota rotors and aftermarket pads don't always play nice. My friend that owns a shop says that most times this combo squeals after a week or so. He suggests rotors and pads or Toyota pads if rotors aren't changed.
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