I struggled with this same issue for a while in my '07. I ended up installing a plug and play HID kit 4300K. I aimed my headlights down a bit so as not to blind other drivers and I am very happy with the result!
I tried the H9 conversion and I was very happy with it, but I wanted more. If done right, you won't blind other drivers and you'll be able to see at night.

 

I will probably add a pair of the driving/fog lights since they are only around $40 and easy to install...but like yourself, I still think I should be able to see more than the H9s put out, but it is much better....
Which HID kit did you use? I looked at a couple online...4300K is the closest to OEM color, correct? Did you use the option of the addl' relay & power them from the battery or plug and play? Nevermind....just reread your post...plug n play....no issues?
Interested in this also....

 

Great job! Thanks for posting back.

 

I put the DDM Tuning kit in my Camry. I went with the fat ballasts and not the slim kind. DDM offers lifetime warrantee but I have heard that it is a real chore to get them to warrantee anything. I figure that as long as the ballasts hold up, I'll opt for new bulbs myself.
I have had this DDM kit for over 2 years and I have had no issues. The one thing that I do is not use my auto activate headlights. I have heard that power on conditions when you start the car can cause strain and power fluctuations to the ballasts. So, I turn my headlights on manually.
Yes, plug and play. You should block the "squirrel spotters" so as not to blind oncoming traffic. That being said, a little aiming seems to lessen any glare to oncoming drivers. Like I said previously, I do not get flashed (high beamed) by other drivers with this kit. I also have an eBay fog/driving light kit installed in my car. I paid about $37 for the kit and it works great and casts lots of light. A vehicle in front of me did kick up a re-tread from and 18 wheeler and it smacked one of the lights back out of the housing and it is hanging out on the under engine cover. Those driving lights do come in handy but with and HID kit it will be a rare occasion that you need them.

 

awesome...thanks for the info. I looked up the DDM tuning kit online. The DDM Plus kit is only $60. I assume this is what you got in the 4500k version with H11 connections. I'm going to order the fog/driving lights tonight & go from there.
Any tips to how you wired your set? Only come on when headlights are on? Did you use fuse taps off of either (L or R) low beam to activate the relay?

 

The DDM kit is 'plug and play'. You plug the original connection into the ballast and there is a harness with connector from the ballast that plugs into the bulb. Just install the bulb. I did not have to install any relays, grounds, etc. There is no cutting, splicing, or inline fuses.
I'm really happy with this kit. I believe the plus kit is the 'Fat' ballast and that is the kit I used. I read reviews on this 'fat' ballast kit and it always seemed like good news. Yes, 4500K and that is close to the OEM. OEM is usually 4300K if memory serves me correctly.
My driving/fog lights are not HID, just H11 halogens. I only use them in really bad weather at night. Most of the time the HID's are enough. The kit I got on eBay came with everything that I needed. I used a fuse piggy back to connect to a circuit that only had power when the car was 'ON'. The wiring is pretty basic: power, ground, relay, etc. You should use some silicon to seal around where wires go into the relay. Do this to avoid allowing moisture into the relay housing.
Let me know if you have any questions and I can take some pics too if necessary.
ALSO, read the description of your fog light kit. Are the fog light lens glass or plastic? Mine are glass and it didn't take long to get a crack in the lens. Even with a crack the light has not broken or allowed moisture in. Just FYI.
One more thing: Most state laws only allow driving/fog lights to be 'ON' with low beams. If you switch to high beams then the driving lights should go out. I did not do this on my Camry. I think it is stupid. You should dim your high beams for other drivers and if there are no other drivers, then who cares if your fog/driving lights are on. My fog/driving lights come on by switch in the dash that was provided in the kit.

 

I installed the fog/driving lights last night. At 1st, they appeared really good, but that was because they pointed upwards too much and acting liking like brights. I aimed them down some, but the sun was coming out, so i couldn't really tell how they were....issues: the switch doesn't fit...its too big...it is kinds sandwiched in between the engine fuse holder and inner fender...i think it looks ok...
I tapped into the left low beam to activate the relay....i may change that to tap into a "key on" circuit with "add a fuse" tap...we'll see...

 

Keep us posted and good job!

 

update.....I ordered the correct sized switch. I rewired/lengthened the wires coming from the switch. The wires now run underneath the fender, ziptied, & above the inner fender. I drilled a small hole in the firewall that goes into the area between the fender & inner fender. I forced the split loom wire casing thru that. Its very tight & protects the wires from chafing on the metal. The relay is mounted underneath near where the grounds are located for the left headlights. The 12V wire is wired directly to the battery, & I used an "add-a-fuse" for the 12V signal to come off of the Left Low Beam fuse. They are adjusted correctly. I like that the cardboard underneath the bumper has small circular cutouts to adjust the driving lights with a screwdriver. No one has flashed me, so everything must be adjusted ok...
So in the end, I have H9s for the headlights & H11s for the driving lights, new headlight housings, all aimed correctly, the driving light switch is in the correct location & I can see good now...
Looking back, I wonder if this was all caused by bad headlight housings that were not able to be adjusted.....either way, I'm happy with the setup...

 

Great job! Thanks for the update.