1985 camry poor acceleration and popping sound from engine in front of driver
I have a 1985 camry LE (gas, not diesel) with 123,000 miles. I bought it new and it always has started with 1 turn of the key.
I drove the car home on 4/5/20 and the check engine light came on for the 1st time since I bought the car. The car was running fine, so I was surprised. I got home and shut off the engine and saw no fluid leaks. THE car was not running hot and never has run hot.
A few days later I got in the car and it would not start. The battery was fine. The car sounded as if it would start, but it would not 'catch,' so to speak. A friend who is a mechanic (HE specializes in 1975 or older cars) said that the problem was the fuel pump, which was original. He also said that I would have to replace the fuel filter, as it was original and would be too dirty for the new fuel pump to function properly.
The car sat in the driveway until my friend finally replaced the fuel pump and filter on 7/7/21 (His wife would not let him leave the house because she was afraid that he would get covid and bring it home to her; she is a semi-invalid and a tad domineering) and put in a new battery. The car starts, but I have to turn the key 7 or 8 times and when it catches, it begins with a 'put put put' sound before the idle picks up a little.
The car then suddenly stalls 2 or 3 times in the driveway in 'park,' but restarts each time with 1 turn of the key. I warm it up for about 3 minutes without pressing the accelerator (without revving it, I guess you could say) and the idle picks up and I drive away; the acceleration is poor, though. I can barely go 10 mph for the first 1000' or so.
I can go around the block without stalling and pick up speed as I go. I can stop and keep my foot on the brake for 1 minute and the car will not stall, but when I press the accelerator again, the car barely moves. THE tachometer does not go above 2 or 3 rpm (On a scale of 10) at the most.
After driving for 4 or 5 minutes on side streets, the car warms up a little and I can go 40 to 45 mph, maybe more, but as I accelerate a popping sound SOMETIMES is heard from the side of the engine that is immediately in front of the driver (the driver's left, but the 'right,' if you were standing in front of the car facing it. The battery is on this side). I am FAIRLY certain that the sound emanates from that spot; I almost thought that the sound came from the front driver's side tire, but that idea is ridiculous. I am not a mechanic by any means; if I were, my descriptions would be much better.
The gasoline probably was not as good as it should have been after having sat for 15 months, but I drove to a station and topped it off by adding 10.5 gallons of 91 octane 2 nights ago; the tank holds 14.5 gallons. The car still does not start until 7 or 8 turns of the key and the driver's side of the engine still pops SOMETIMES when I accelerate, but not always.
My friend has some ideas. As I said, I know nothing about cars, so I need help from experts. My friend has said that maybe
THE check engine light has NOT come on again. WOULD buying an OBD be worthwhile or does it work only when the check engine light is flashing?
ANY help would be appreciated. THANKS very much.
I drove the car home on 4/5/20 and the check engine light came on for the 1st time since I bought the car. The car was running fine, so I was surprised. I got home and shut off the engine and saw no fluid leaks. THE car was not running hot and never has run hot.
A few days later I got in the car and it would not start. The battery was fine. The car sounded as if it would start, but it would not 'catch,' so to speak. A friend who is a mechanic (HE specializes in 1975 or older cars) said that the problem was the fuel pump, which was original. He also said that I would have to replace the fuel filter, as it was original and would be too dirty for the new fuel pump to function properly.
The car sat in the driveway until my friend finally replaced the fuel pump and filter on 7/7/21 (His wife would not let him leave the house because she was afraid that he would get covid and bring it home to her; she is a semi-invalid and a tad domineering) and put in a new battery. The car starts, but I have to turn the key 7 or 8 times and when it catches, it begins with a 'put put put' sound before the idle picks up a little.
The car then suddenly stalls 2 or 3 times in the driveway in 'park,' but restarts each time with 1 turn of the key. I warm it up for about 3 minutes without pressing the accelerator (without revving it, I guess you could say) and the idle picks up and I drive away; the acceleration is poor, though. I can barely go 10 mph for the first 1000' or so.
I can go around the block without stalling and pick up speed as I go. I can stop and keep my foot on the brake for 1 minute and the car will not stall, but when I press the accelerator again, the car barely moves. THE tachometer does not go above 2 or 3 rpm (On a scale of 10) at the most.
After driving for 4 or 5 minutes on side streets, the car warms up a little and I can go 40 to 45 mph, maybe more, but as I accelerate a popping sound SOMETIMES is heard from the side of the engine that is immediately in front of the driver (the driver's left, but the 'right,' if you were standing in front of the car facing it. The battery is on this side). I am FAIRLY certain that the sound emanates from that spot; I almost thought that the sound came from the front driver's side tire, but that idea is ridiculous. I am not a mechanic by any means; if I were, my descriptions would be much better.
The gasoline probably was not as good as it should have been after having sat for 15 months, but I drove to a station and topped it off by adding 10.5 gallons of 91 octane 2 nights ago; the tank holds 14.5 gallons. The car still does not start until 7 or 8 turns of the key and the driver's side of the engine still pops SOMETIMES when I accelerate, but not always.
My friend has some ideas. As I said, I know nothing about cars, so I need help from experts. My friend has said that maybe
- the EFI needs to be replaced;
- the ignition coil and/or distributor are bad;
- the fuel injectors are clogged;
- the thermostat is bad;
- mass airflow sensor is bad; and/or
- the oxygen sensor is bad;
THE check engine light has NOT come on again. WOULD buying an OBD be worthwhile or does it work only when the check engine light is flashing?
ANY help would be appreciated. THANKS very much.
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