1988...hesitates/sputters on acceleration???
My 1988 wagon w/ 2.0 hesitates and sputters when I give it the gas . It has done it for some time,but not bad enough to worry about . Now it is constant and even does it at idle . I have to feather the gas pedal to get up to highway speed or I have to really give it the gas to get the RPMs up high enough to accelerate without sputter . I have tried dry gas and injector cleaner so far,with no luck. Is the filter my next step ? Any help would be much appreciated. Hoping it is not injectors or the pump.
Will do,I have eliminated fuel filter. The old one had a bunch of dirt in it,but it still runs the same after changing it .
The air filter had a hole chewed through it and mouse evidence(sunflower seed hulls) in the air box. Could that debris make it in far enough to mess up the injectors?
The air filter had a hole chewed through it and mouse evidence(sunflower seed hulls) in the air box. Could that debris make it in far enough to mess up the injectors?
Don't think the injectors are messed up but check the MAF sensor near the air filter and large hose going to the throttle body for mouse debris. The mouse may have left a mess at the MAF sensor.
Check out the MAF sensor (plastic), wiring, plus other sensors such as air intake a mouse could chew on.
If you have mice, install a section of metal screen in the air intake going to the air filter. Have the screen holes as large as possible without being to large an allow the a mouse to enter.
Did you change the can fuel filter or the filter sock in the gas tank? If can filter only, the fuel pump would have a sock type filter that may also be full of dirt.
Check out the MAF sensor (plastic), wiring, plus other sensors such as air intake a mouse could chew on.
If you have mice, install a section of metal screen in the air intake going to the air filter. Have the screen holes as large as possible without being to large an allow the a mouse to enter.
Did you change the can fuel filter or the filter sock in the gas tank? If can filter only, the fuel pump would have a sock type filter that may also be full of dirt.
Thanks for the advice,I will mouse-proof it . I replaced the can filter,hoping I do not have to go into the tank.
Plug wires have some cracks at the boot . The contacts inside the distributor cap had a white chalky glazing on them . I cleaned up the rotor and contacts,did not help. Maybe the wires are to blame ?
The coil is a pain to get out,is there a way to test it while in the car ?
Plug wires have some cracks at the boot . The contacts inside the distributor cap had a white chalky glazing on them . I cleaned up the rotor and contacts,did not help. Maybe the wires are to blame ?
The coil is a pain to get out,is there a way to test it while in the car ?
The video below has examples of various ign sparks. You want a strong blue spark, not orange. Use an plastic handle screw driver or something else that is insulated if needing to move the wire while it is making spark.
You can use an ohm meter to test the coil:
Primary resistance: 0.38-0.46 ohms
Secondary: 7.7-10.4K ohm.
Operate the engine at night looking for any blue glue around the ign wires.
You can use an ohm meter to test the coil:
Primary resistance: 0.38-0.46 ohms
Secondary: 7.7-10.4K ohm.
Operate the engine at night looking for any blue glue around the ign wires.
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jellyculligan
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