Car just up and DIED on the highway. Dollied it home. The car Manual shows how to pull codes from the computer. I got a code "12". This is and RPM single error.

Googling suggests that I replace the distributor. So I found a re-man for $150. It's dummy-proof, install went perfectly. How ever; I have the SAME RESULTS! Same error. No start.

There are 2 sets of plugs that connect to this distributor. The set with 2 wires that connect directly to the coil within the unit are hot when the key is on. So the coil has power.

The other set has 3 wires. I do not have a volt meter. All I have is a test light. So for giggles I attempt to see if any of them were hot with key on and/or during start. Not one of them lite up the light. Not to say there is no current, just not enough to power the bulb.

There is no TACH during start.

There is no fuel smell during long periods of starting in the exhaust pipe.

There is no spark.

There IS fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

No blown fuses.

Relay conditions are unknown at this time.

No cut or melted wires that I could see.

This car has a history of hard starts when warm. I chalked it up to a fuel system problem since it does in fact leak fuel from the tank if there's more than 1/2 tank.

Pulling the ground to the battery to reset the computer doesn't fix anything.


What could it be?

ECU?

Broken wire in a harness?

Relay?

I suppose the next task would be to either un-do the wire harness and follow the wires to the other end. Replace?

Or get a manual and read where they go in the ECU. Replace?

 

make sure your check engine ligh is on when you're cranking over.....and you may also have a broken timing belt..

 

You now know that a narrow interpretation of trouble codes leads to unnecessary parts replacement. And you need to test, not just replace.Actually code 12 is "RPM signal". Causes are; Distributor circuit, distributor, igniter, igniter circuit, starter circuit, ECM. Toyoboy has a good suggestion, broken timing belt. If you can't do a compression check then remove the upper timing belt cover andhave a look. If that's ok I would check primary on the coil to see if your gettingvoltage to coil.

 

Ya know. this is what I get for playing and learning about Diesels (dodge cummins, 500hp....) for the past few years. I didn't connect all the dots!.

The one key word the GF did say "The motor sounds different when starting". And ya know, she's right. I'll pul the distrabutor cap and see if in fact the rotor is spinning.

I take it this motor is _NOT_ acustom to smashing pistons and valves when a timing belt snaps? There were no reports of smoke or odd noises. just a motor "shut down". It does turn out with ease and no added noises. Almost turns over "to easy".

The chck engine light is on when cranking.

 

I just went through this with my 91 Camry..It turned out to be the coil which is inside the dist on the bottom, the screws are underneath the coil and are a bitch to get in and out.

 

It's the timing belt!!!! I pulled hte cap of the distributor this morning and cranked it. no change in position of the rotor.

This makes sense. Different start/crank noise, no fuel smell in the exhaust. no turning of the distributor rotor!

So, what are my chances here? Would I have a smashed valve? If my chances for zero damage are perty high here. I'd like it some one can point me to a GOOD online reference to replacing a timing belt.

I'll attempt to return the distributor to Checker and pick up a belt. My argument is that the belt is broke and the part was never used..... This is true. And get a belt from them, any gaskets and what not as well.

I've never had to change out one of these belts, but I have built a few motors, bigger ones, but a few in my day. Just a matter of the correct tools, since I moved I have random "crap" heh. If I total the motor, big deal, can't get any worse right?

 

I'm pretty sure an 89 is non-interference, as my 95 is. Toyo had to go interference later on to get more HP. So no big deal on valve train. Gates web site will tell you which cars and years are interference/non.

I just completed my first TB change on my Camry (I've done other cars though) and your biggest problem is access on the FWD engine. But take your time and be patient it will work out given you're no novice on engine work. I used an FSM as reference but Haynes works okfor $18. Better do the seals (crank, cam), water pump, oil pump seal and o-ring while you're in there. Parts are about $300 total if you include new belts. Crank bolt re-torque will be a problem without a tool but you can hold the engine with the ring gear, I'm told.