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1995 ABS CV Axle interchange

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  #1  
Old 08-13-2016, 09:06 PM
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Default 1995 ABS CV Axle interchange

Hi.
I guess I am no good with the search or maybe the question has not been asked.

I am in Eugene Oregon and have to travel up to Port Townsend Washington to put a axle in my good friends car.
It is a 1995 Camry but she is not able to find Anything on it that says ABS for the brake system. I even went after the Vin number search and was not sure about if it had ABS or not.

My question would be, I have a ABS CV axle and wondering if anyone has installed one of those on a Non ABS Camry?
Its the standard 2200 I think but 4 cyl for sure, auto, air, power brakes and steering.
I looked at a couple of Youtube vids for R&R but can't seem to find anything that might tell me if the ABS quipped axle would install without interfering with anything.
Anyone know?
 
  #2  
Old 08-14-2016, 11:54 AM
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For car ABS determination.

Have your friend turn on the ign switch but don't start the engine. If the car has ABS. A lighted symbol on the dash with the letters the ABS will illuminate for 3 seconds. The symbol may be located under the tachometer. The illumination occurs each time the ign switch is turned on.

If she has a camera, take a photo of the area under the engine hood. A car with ABS will have a hydraulic manifold near coolant overflow tank. The manifold has many steal brake lines going to it. The overflow tank is located on the front passengers side of the engine compartment.

It looks like the item in the link below but once installed has the lines attached to it.

More Information for RAYBESTOS ABS540165

The basic axle is the same for ABS or Non-ABS. The ABS axle has an ABS encoder ring built into it.

I have installed ABS axles in cars without ABS without problems on this year of Camry. Many times the only axle available is for an ABS car. In this case the ABS ring is not used for anything but remains on the axle.

Have you ever installed an axle on this car? Which axle is it, the passenger or drivers side?

The drivers side axle can be extremely difficult to get out of the differential as it is held in with a snap ring. Bring a pry bar.

If the passengers, it does happen the carrier bearing freezes in the carrier bearing housing requiring effort to remove.

One other caution is when install the axle into the differential, especially the drivers. Ones impatience in trying to get it to fully install, requiring ramming it in to the diff. Can cause the installer to damage the differential axle seal resulting in a leak. Take your time to align the spines to allow the axle to freely slide in before ramming hard it home. The ramming may require many attempts.
 

Last edited by toyomoho; 08-14-2016 at 12:02 PM.
  #3  
Old 08-14-2016, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
For car ABS determination.

Have your friend turn on the ign switch but don't start the engine. If the car has ABS. A lighted symbol on the dash with the letters the ABS will illuminate for 3 seconds. The symbol may be located under the tachometer. The illumination occurs each time the ign switch is turned on.

If she has a camera, take a photo of the area under the engine hood. A car with ABS will have a hydraulic manifold near coolant overflow tank. The manifold has many steal brake lines going to it. The overflow tank is located on the front passengers side of the engine compartment.

It looks like the item in the link below but once installed has the lines attached to it.

More Information for RAYBESTOS ABS540165

The basic axle is the same for ABS or Non-ABS. The ABS axle has an ABS encoder ring built into it.

I have installed ABS axles in cars without ABS without problems on this year of Camry. Many times the only axle available is for an ABS car. In this case the ABS ring is not used for anything but remains on the axle.

Have you ever installed an axle on this car? Which axle is it, the passenger or drivers side?

The drivers side axle can be extremely difficult to get out of the differential as it is held in with a snap ring. Bring a pry bar.

If the passengers, it does happen the carrier bearing freezes in the carrier bearing housing requiring effort to remove.

One other caution is when install the axle into the differential, especially the drivers. Ones impatience in trying to get it to fully install, requiring ramming it in to the diff. Can cause the installer to damage the differential axle seal resulting in a leak. Take your time to align the spines to allow the axle to freely slide in before ramming hard it home. The ramming may require many attempts.
I have Not installed a axle in this car but did watch a Boring video about how, with the pry bar (snap ring I would suspect) and the getting it to slip back into place with out pounding on it. I watched the fellow struggle with it and with his broken english, he finily got it to were it kind of slipped and clicked in. That last little click in I would assume its the snap ring locking itself in. That is what I will looking for this to do too.
I have installed them in the Subaru's.
Lets see...
Found the axle nut size (30mm) and got a deep socket to take with.
It's the Left Front CV axle.

Thanks for your help....Kind of liking this little car she got and might be interested in finding one myself. Never owned one but everyone that Has owned one loves them. I think I might be missing out
 
  #4  
Old 08-15-2016, 11:03 AM
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The left side is easier but does have the snap ring.

The video appears to describe the pounding process. Caution not to damage the diff lip seal.

It this an automatic trans?

This trans has a separate fluid chamber for the differential. The fill plug is on the back of the diff housing where the axles slide into. Suggest making sure you can loosen this plug first to add fluid before starting the job. It has happened the plug is extremely difficult to break free. Some have drained all the fluid prior to finding this out.

The should be some type of shop manual info on the internet for this car if wanting to search. The 1992-2001 Camry was about same for this job.

Its a good car, well built-solid. The engine is very good but don't allow it to overheat or the heat gasket may blow.

If your at it, might change the transmission fluid (all of it is better including torque converter). Lack of fluid changes can cause the trans to stop engaging in Park or Reverse requiring a rebuild.

The trans/diff used Dexron III was has been replaced by something called ATF fluid. Read the container for substitutions.
 
  #5  
Old 08-19-2016, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
The left side is easier but does have the snap ring.

The video appears to describe the pounding process. Caution not to damage the diff lip seal.

It this an automatic trans?

This trans has a separate fluid chamber for the differential. The fill plug is on the back of the diff housing where the axles slide into. Suggest making sure you can loosen this plug first to add fluid before starting the job. It has happened the plug is extremely difficult to break free. Some have drained all the fluid prior to finding this out.

The should be some type of shop manual info on the internet for this car if wanting to search. The 1992-2001 Camry was about same for this job.

Its a good car, well built-solid. The engine is very good but don't allow it to overheat or the heat gasket may blow.

If your at it, might change the transmission fluid (all of it is better including torque converter). Lack of fluid changes can cause the trans to stop engaging in Park or Reverse requiring a rebuild.

The trans/diff used Dexron III was has been replaced by something called ATF fluid. Read the container for substitutions.
Just got back from being up in Port Townsend for the last 5 days working on more than the car. The axle went in with No hitches. I may have lost a shot glass of ATF was all, check it and it was still find and looked like it had been serviced as the fluid was still looking like new.
I was able to line it up, slide it back and forth a little and then a hard Push and felt it snap in. Just too sweet ;-)

I drove the car and noticed that she had a little bit of harmonic vibration up at 60mph and above. Didn't go over 70 with it. Brought it back into the shop, jacked it up and shook down the right axle. I noticed I could feel just a small amount of movement, really small, but on the one I just put in, none at all.
Tires looked like they might have been 75% and it was not a wobble and it didn't quite feel like a lost wheel weights as it was more of that harmonic vibration....Could that right axle because it had a small amount of movement be bad too?

Thanks a Bunch for your help.
Oh, if I find her a small little pickup truck, she is willing to trade me for Camry. I really liked how it drove and Everything worked on it but the driver side door lock. Can not hear the solenoid click to unlock that door. I could hear the rest click.
Should I start a new thread about that ??

Thanks.
Helmar
 
  #6  
Old 08-19-2016, 10:02 PM
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Was the vibration there before the axle change?

The wheel bearings are preloaded by tightening the axle nut. The axle CV joints would not affect hub play.

One note is Toyota OEM axle may have a rubber damper mounted to the axle shift. If this affects vibration, don't know.

As to the lock. No lock or unlock click noise?

Solenoids do fail. You might also check the wiring with a volt meter to determine if the lock solenoid is getting power.

The solenoid is works on +/- voltage in a closed circuit (no ground to chassis). Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires. Note there is another Blue/Red wire going to the unit for the unlock detection switch.
 
  #7  
Old 08-19-2016, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
Was the vibration there before the axle change?

The wheel bearings are preloaded by tightening the axle nut. The axle CV joints would not affect hub play.

One note is Toyota OEM axle may have a rubber damper mounted to the axle shift. If this affects vibration, don't know.

As to the lock. No lock or unlock click noise?

Solenoids do fail. You might also check the wiring with a volt meter to determine if the lock solenoid is getting power.

The solenoid is works on +/- voltage in a closed circuit (no ground to chassis). Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires. Note there is another Blue/Red wire going to the unit for the unlock detection switch.
I am not real good at explaining myself some times. Its that Right Brain Left Brain thing...Sorry.
I did not check the right axle before I started on it it. I just jacked it up and put her on jack stands and went to pulling the left axle out and back in. It was after I drove it (never drove it before but it was supposed to be clicking real loud, the axle I did pull, I knew it was bad for sure)

Once I drove it and she had that harmonic vibration, I just jacked the car back up and reached under, grabbed the axle and notice it had a little movement up and down (right side) and rolled the tire around at least one turn, same small amount of movement all the way around.
Then I checked the left axle I just put in, no movement up and down at all.

On the door, I noticed the one key that she had was warn pretty bad. You could clearly see it had more ware on once side then the other. It seemed to unlock the trunk faster with the warn part facing up..
Its almost like the key might be warn too much.
The Right door, the key works Fine on, same with the ignition switch.
Now, if I was to twist it pretty hard, once in a while it would unlock the left rear door, but not the drivers door.
I pulled the door panel and was able to lub the mess out of things as this car Did set for some time, maybe a 6 months?
I suggest to her to have a new key made for it.
So, working the linkage up and down, I could get it to unlock the rear door at least but it would not unlock itself and no, no solenoid sound was coming from that drivers door.

This car happens to be about a 7 hour drive for me as I am down in Eugene Oregon and the my friends car is up in Port Townsend Washington.
What I try to do is get enough information as to be able to get what I might need and go up and work on the car for her.

I think my next step is to go to one of our local bone yards and pull open a door and pull the whole guts out of the door latch assembly as so I have the extra clips, linkage, solenoid and whatever else I might need.

Thanks again for your help on this.
 
  #8  
Old 08-20-2016, 03:57 PM
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The vibration could be one of many things. Diagnostics is most difficult even if this was your car worked on at your own home.

The passenger’s side axle is a different design having a carrier bearing and may have some play.

This problem may not be an axle issue or even front passenger’s side.

It could be a tire or rim issues. Try swapping tires front to back. or rotating the spare tire in, starting as say the front passenger side. Drive car and determine if changing a tire made a difference in the vibration.


Look at the tires for bulges on the tread and side wall.


Grab each tire at 3 and 9 and push one side in while pulling the other out to check for play.


If making a new key, suggest taking the car to Toyota dealer and having one made from the VIN number. This rather then to copy a worn key.

My guess is the solenoid is bad, a common issue. If gutting a junk care might also grab the door master switch if the price is cheap. This unit is the sole switch for the driver’s door. Meaning one can check the passenger door operation (and switch) using either the master switch or door switch.
 
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