2005 LE Steering Wheel Shimmy
#1
2005 LE Steering Wheel Shimmy
2005 Camry LE w/4cyl and auto, 147,000 miles. Everything is original on this car except tires. One year ago, it developed a vibration in front end during braking. Turned rotors with new Wagner ceramic pads. Vibration gone. also noticed irregular tire wear so a 4 wheel alignment was done. Wife's car so I don't drive it very often. Six months ago I noticed the braking pulsation had returned but it also had a noticeable vibration and shimmy in the steering wheel at 30mph and above. Had all four tires balanced and moved frt to back. Also noted at that time that the tires were on their last 2k-3k miles. Balancing removed 80%. I'm still living with brake pulsation, assuming it needs new rotors. Over the next 4 months, the vibration/shimmy gradually increased. 2 months ago, 4 new tires. It seems like 60% of vibration/shimmy was gone with new tires and within 100 miles, probably 80% was gone. I guess tires needed miles to "settle in"? It still has a very noticeable shimmy/oscillation in steering wheel that changes intensity with speed. If you remove hands from wheel, you can't feel anything in chassis. It is isolated to the steering wheel. Tire wear looks good. No noticeable play in wheels, checking by hand. I am a motorcycle mechanic of 25 yrs and Chevy mechanic before that, pre-FWD days. Would a worn steering rack cause this? Sometimes, over small sharp-edged bumps and irregularities, I can feel something in the floorboard. Like RWD cars when anti-sway bar bushings are shot, or maybe shock bolts/rubber bushings loose or gone. Would worn 147,000 mile struts cause this? NO NOISES and still has a satisfactory ride quality. Next step is tire balancing at a different shop. I would rather address the cause for now ($) and perform a front end refurbishing this summer. Thanks for any and all input.
#2
Also, anybody with knowledgeable opinion about quality of replacement struts/shocks. Will I notice a "seat-of-the-pants" difference between genie Toyota struts/shocks and a complete set of four (includes new hydraulics, springs and mounts) from AM-Autoparts for $276 and free shipping, with 10 yr warranty. I need to get another year out of this car before trading-in.
#3
I don't think it is shocks/struts. It is something in the steering rack, axles, or possibly hubs. I went through the exact same issue in my old Nissan Maxima. ultimately it turned out to be axles. I was getting the vibration in the steering wheel at very specific speeds from 67 MPH to 75 MPH.
I would think anything steering rack related would be noticeable at all speeds, not just above a certain speed.
I would think anything steering rack related would be noticeable at all speeds, not just above a certain speed.
#4
If pedal pulsation, suggest replacing the rotors with new ones then reevaluating your symptoms. The benefits of turned rotors in eliminating pedal pulse and vibration can be limited as the rotor can still have a problem even after being turned. This problem resurfacing in a short time.
Uneven brake pad deposits can build up on the rotor causing what appears to be a warped rotor. Might try cleaning the rotors. The internet has many suggested methods.
Stay out of standing water when driving as cold water on hot rotors can cause warping.
The effects of rotor problems can be more pronounced in FWD vehicles.
If shimmy check tires for ply separation, tire being out of round, bulges (also check the side), etc.
Suggest performing the above before getting to rack and front end bushing replacement.
You could inspect the lower swing arm bushings for rubber break down as this can happen allowing the steering knuckle to move. Plus check tie rod end bushings and lower ball joint.
Toyota struts are expensive thus most go aftermarket. Monroe, KYB, etc. My opinion is unless a strut assy is bad as in leaking badly (some minor seepage is OK), damaged, sagging, knocking, tires are cupping, etc, changing the strut assy (or strut only) is not going to do much but yes could improve the ride.
Uneven brake pad deposits can build up on the rotor causing what appears to be a warped rotor. Might try cleaning the rotors. The internet has many suggested methods.
Stay out of standing water when driving as cold water on hot rotors can cause warping.
The effects of rotor problems can be more pronounced in FWD vehicles.
If shimmy check tires for ply separation, tire being out of round, bulges (also check the side), etc.
Suggest performing the above before getting to rack and front end bushing replacement.
You could inspect the lower swing arm bushings for rubber break down as this can happen allowing the steering knuckle to move. Plus check tie rod end bushings and lower ball joint.
Toyota struts are expensive thus most go aftermarket. Monroe, KYB, etc. My opinion is unless a strut assy is bad as in leaking badly (some minor seepage is OK), damaged, sagging, knocking, tires are cupping, etc, changing the strut assy (or strut only) is not going to do much but yes could improve the ride.
#6
Fixed!
Yeah, I know this is overdue but maybe it will help somebody later.
So...I had taken the car to my local tire shop for balancing, still shimmied. Decided it was tires. Went to same tire shop for 4 new tires, still shimmied. Against my better judgement, I took the car to my local Firestone store for 4 wheel balance. Car drives like brand new, absolutely no shimmy. Apparently my local tire shop has a balancer in need of repair or calibration.
Never assume anything, never give up!
So...I had taken the car to my local tire shop for balancing, still shimmied. Decided it was tires. Went to same tire shop for 4 new tires, still shimmied. Against my better judgement, I took the car to my local Firestone store for 4 wheel balance. Car drives like brand new, absolutely no shimmy. Apparently my local tire shop has a balancer in need of repair or calibration.
Never assume anything, never give up!
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