Hi guys, brand new member here. I've scoured the internet for an answer to my problem for a couple of days now, including of course many forums. I don't recall exactly how thoroughly I went through CF (specifically) for an answer so I apologize in advance if a user here has already presented something similar and had it resolved!

So I have a 2007 Camry Hybrid on which I just replaced the 12 volt battery. Upon replacing it, the car would go to full accessory mode as normal (push button start) but then when I would push the brake and tap power again the car would go back off as if I were NOT pushing the brake at all. The odd part there was that indicator light on the power button would still turn green whenever I depressed the brake, signifying that it was all set to start, except Instead of actually starting it would go back to fully off. As frustrating as that was, here's where it gets weirder!

I began checking fuses, of course very carefully, and now for God only knows what reason (of it's something I did) the car will not turn on at all, not even to accessory mode like it would before! The way it is now, With the battery plugged in the ONLY thing that works are the dome lights/illuminated entry lights, power door locks, and brake lights/hazards. The Power/start button has absolutely no effect whatsoever.

The only code I could pull before it went full dead like this was an immobilizer malfunction code (but again of course this was back when the car would still go to accessory mode at least) So I guess I'm asking- Where do I begin? I would think that Even if the key fob battery is totally dead, it should at least be showing up on my dash /information screen, relaying some kind of information about the key fob battery needing replacement/not being recognized or something..or at the very least the alarm light should be flashing as normal, right? None of this is happening.

Anyone have any ideas what fuses/relays I should be checking? Any help here is huuugely appreciated. Thanks a bunch for your time.

 

The issue may be the cars computer systems can problems if a constant 12v is not applied when the battery is disconnected.

Make sure the cars security system is disabled and the brake lights work.

 

Been a couple days since I've posted, my apologies. So I discovered I had a blown one of the main high-amperage fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay box. If you're sitting in the driver's seat, it'd be the fuse box directly behind the dash gauges and a bit to the left. It was a long blue cartridge style fuse that had part number 82620-33030 written faintly in white ink on it. I've seen them referred to as "fusible links" but I don't know if this is technically correct. The jury still out on that lol I have no clue what happened in my cars particular case, but I guess this is common when someone either connects battery cables or jumper cables incorrectly, or does something wrong when installing an alternator. Since there's no alternator on my car, I need to find out what else could have caused this. Thankfully, everything I've read says it could only be the result of an issue with the 12v system and not the HV battery.
I got very lucky and found the same fuse replacement (OEM Toyota brand) on Amazon for a reasonable price w/ next day delivery. So far so good.
Unfortunately Installation was nowhere near as hassle-free.The entire fuse box has to be more or less dismantled, as they are a bolt-in design and quite difficult to access. .
But long story short, I got it out eventually and just finished swapping it out. Unfortunately the car is still doing the same thing!!! I still have power to door locks, courtesy/entry lights, dome/vanity lights, brake lights and hazards. But nothing else.
. I appreciate your input greatly!!!


It's going to have to be what I look into next. Since I'm still learning here, I need to find out what the most non-invasive way to test the ECM would be, and perhaps the BCM as well. I just don't know. Things are sure a lot easier with OBDii giving answers (ha)
Anyway thanks again for the response and I'll keep you posted. Take care ✌️

 

Been a couple days since I've posted, my apologies. So I discovered I had a blown one of the main high-amperage fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay box. If you're sitting in the driver's seat, it'd be the fuse box directly behind the dash gauges and a bit to the left. It was a long blue cartridge style fuse that had part number 82620-33030 written faintly in white ink on it. I've seen them referred to as "fusible links" but I don't know if this is technically correct. The jury still out on that lol I have no clue what happened in my cars particular case, but I guess this is common when someone either connects battery cables or jumper cables incorrectly, or does something wrong when installing an alternator. Since there's no alternator on my car, I need to find out what else could have caused this. Thankfully, everything I've read says it could only be the result of an issue with the 12v system and not the HV battery.
I got very lucky and found the same fuse replacement (OEM Toyota brand) on Amazon for a reasonable price w/ next day delivery. So far so good.
Unfortunately Installation was nowhere near as hassle-free.The entire fuse box has to be more or less dismantled, as they are a bolt-in design and quite difficult to access. .
But long story short, I got it out eventually and just finished swapping it out. Unfortunately the car is still doing the same thing!!! I still have power to door locks, courtesy/entry lights, dome/vanity lights, brake lights and hazards. But nothing else.
. I appreciate your input greatly!!!


It's going to have to be what I look into next. Since I'm still learning here, I need to find out what the most non-invasive way to test the ECM would be, and perhaps the BCM as well. I just don't know. Things are sure a lot easier with OBDii giving answers (ha)
Anyway thanks again for the response and I'll keep you posted. Take care ✌️

 

Just a quick follow up... I'm a bit of a bozo it would appear. I last reported that I changed my main "fuse link" cartridge in the engine room fuse box and nothing had changed. Well this was actually not the case! It WAS the case at the time, but it turns out I made a very sloppy oversight that I'm embarrassed to even admit! I didn't have one of the larger wires running to my fuse box fully clipped in!! I just got all my tools back out and work light set up only to see giant gauge connector..well, disconnected.
Popped it back in and everything came to life again! Full dash lights, full power etc. !!!
Next just to work on the immobilizer issue (if it still exists) and hope this girl is ready for some miles. I was too relieved too mess with anything else tonight and would rather go to bed telling myself I achieved something. At least Ill have my scanner back on my side tomorrow.
If anyone sees this at all and is having electrical issues, I pray you don't need to mess with those fusible link blocks, but either way don't give up.
Peace out for now ✌️