I dont think it is the TPS as there was no prior indication of a tps problem before it died, but I definatley will check to see if it is loose. I will be ordering an ignitor just incase, and will return it if it doesnt help since I have that place that will take back opened electronics. I still havnt checked the fuel pressure because im having trouble locating the gauge I was going to borrow and im too broke right now to buy one. but that is at the top of my list. the only thing that is killing me is the timing change. I did remove the disty to check the coil before I put in the new parts and got it ideling so it is, though very unlikely, possible that I reinstalled it a tooth off and then had the readjust it by hand. can the disty be installed 10* off or will it be more off than that. if that is the case, the timing might not be the running problem at all.
for testing the timeing, I just hooked up a timing light and had someone try to start it. thats when, to my suprise, that it started up. so no, I did not jump those diagnostic ports. Pedro, did this screw up my timing check??? what will bridging these ports do. sorry if you already explained it and I jsut missed it. But it was ideling very smooth and at the proper RPM once I adjusted it, it just cant take a load. so since spark is strong enough (i think) indicated by the color of the spark and the timing after adjustment, if must be fuel. and its running too smooth to be the T belt. sorry, I know im repeating myself now but writing this stuff down kinda helps me think it over. that and I know that im not the most clear writer so if i write the situation in a couple ways, maybe it will be easier to understand. Well I really apreciate everyones help. please keep the ideas and input coming. its the only help I have in these dark times,

 

deanp, the distributor runs off the end of the camshaft so there are no teeth, just a slot. You're either on timing or 180 degrees off timing. I think if you don't jump the two diagnostic terminals you will be off by about 10 degress, which sounds about right given the timing you got. Check the underside of the hood for how to time the engine, there should be a factory sticker. If getting the right timing does not give you off idle operation, toyoboy may have something in the TPS. Make sure the vacuum hose to the TPS is not leaking. To test the TPS you'll need a hand vacuum pump, an ohmmeter and feeler gauge. If you pull it off to check if it's sticking make sure you mark it's rotational postion on the throttle body so it will go back in the same position. Can you get a TPS to test from the same guy who's giving you an ignitor?

 

Ok, so...updates. Its running. clean, smooth, as powerful as it should be. Crazy thing is I havnt done anything. Since I replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter in my last update, all I did was put in a new battery because the old one died from all the cranking. It started right up and hasnt died since. There is something kind of funky but this could be due to the adjustment in timing that I made in my last update, but at idel as a stop light or whatever, the idel will dip real low and the lights will dim. but it hasnt died yet. But it still runs smooth so im not quite sure what this is. Any ideas?

well Im not convinced that anything is fixed completley because the symptoms were too severe for the simple parts that I replaced so Im sure within the next week or so, whatever is wrong will fail completley and ill be back to diagnosing. but at least then it will be easier to find.

 

First adjust the timing to proper specs. I would then remove and clean all the cable connections from the battery, including those attached to the engine/body. If you can find a ground strap or two from the engine to the body I would clean those connections a well. I believe there is one on the DS down by the transmission. Cleaning the alternator connections would be good too.

 

Once again Pedro, quick to respond and with more helpful suggestions. Thanks alot and I will update again once Ive adjusted the timing and done the things you have mentioned.

 

How long was it from the time you disconnected your old battery till when you connected power to it with the new one when you replaced it? The reason I'm asking is if the ECU was bad or going bad, removing power from it for a while and connecting it back up is known to make it work again (temporarily ofcourse).

Also I would definately test your charging voltage. If its not putting out 13.5v I might suspect your alternator.

I've also ran into bad batteries that instead of the engine cranking over way too slow to start it would actually crank over seemingly fast enough to start but then not enough power would be left for the ignition to fire good enough to start. It would give a symptom of a weak coil when in fact it may have been your battery all along. The problem with it idling low soon after the battery was installed may just be the ECU relearning how to accurately control everything smoothley.

 

I really hope its not the ecu. (fingers crossed) now it runs smooth but after it reaches opp temp, it will drop from about 900 rpm idel (fast I know) down to about 700 which isnt that bad, but when it does it, it sounds and feels like its gonna die and has a noticable miss, but when you give it some gas, it smooths out and the miss seams to disapear. I went today to adjust the timing by the haynes manual discription and it says to jump terminal E1 and TE1 and then set the timing the the "S" mark on the timing cover. I, for the life of me, couldnt find any mark that resempeled an "S". so I set it to the little, unlabled mark between the 5 and 10 mark and then, like the manual described, pulled off the jumper wire to check the result. the manual says the timing should advance to 12 to 20* BTDC but instead it went to about 5* so I guess the mark between the 5 and 10 isnt the "S" mark. so maybe someone can tell me what mark to set it to when Im jumping the TE1 and E1 terminal. and if I did set it right, and got the result of a totally off timing after removing the jumper wire, what could it be????

 

deanp, I think that "S" mark is a misprint. It should be "5 degree mark".
After you jump TE1/E1 the idle will rise for about 5 seconds then return to idle range. Timing should be 10 degrees, but FSM says it will move in a range of 0-10 degrees. I think that's why Haynes says 5 degrees, half way. What's happening is the computer is probably adjusting the timing on the fly as you check/adjust. After you remove the jumper, timing will be anywhere from 12 to 22 degrees according to Haynes, so you can see the wide variation. The FSM does not give a non-jumper timing spec. When I did mine I found the timing stable at 10 degrees with jumper. After I did my timing belt it was about 8 degrees stable on the re-check, so I just adjusted it to 10 degrees. It runs fine.Remember to try and look at the marks directly above and not at an angle. Once you remove the jumper you can check timing and see where the marks line up. If your timing is going down to 5 degrees after jumper removal you did it incorrectly. Factory idle is 750 +/- 50 rpm with warm engine. Higher idle will occur until the engine warms so your 900 at cold is ok.

 

Pedro, I did let the engine warm up so 900 rpm idel is warm. the most confusing thing was when I set the timing with the terminals jumped, i set the timing at the mid mark (about 8*) and then when I removed the jumper, the timing went to below 5* btdc at idel. it actually retarded the timing when I removed the jumper wire. so if I were to set the timing at 5* btdc it would retard it further once I removed the jumper and and still be around 5-0*. isnt the timing suposto advance when I remove the jumper wire and return the timing to 12-22* Btdc. now I got no idea what is going on. could the ECU be fried??? If i just so happend to jump a tooth on the timing belt on the crank pully that would advance/retard the spark in refrence to where the pistons are but then I dont think it would run so smooth and AND this doesnt explain why the timing is retarding (happening later in the pistons movement) when I remove the jumper wire.

 

deanp, the timing should advance when jumper is removed. This same jumper wire procedure is used on another vehicle I have and that vehicle's timing also advances when jumper is removed. You aresure you have the timing light hooked to #1 spark plug wire, the one on the end passenger side? : &gt

I also assume the idle was ok before all this happened? I would check your mechanical timing if you think you could have jumped a tooth. I also think that if you were a tooth or so off you shouldstill be able to adjust the ignition timing, you would just have to turn the dist. a little further. Is the rotational position of the distributor about midway onfull adjustment or is it turned way over to one side or the other? I have no idea about ECU. I would think you would get go/nogo if it were bad??? You did say you can drive the car ok now, it's just the timing/idle issue? Only way to fix idle would be to check IAC system unless timing is way advanced, which it doesn't seem to be.

edit: Did you get to try that igniter?