98 Camry A140E removal, can I get some advice
#1
03-21-2010, 09:38 AM
98 Camry A140E removal, can I get some advice
1998 Camry LE 2.2 4 cyl auto
I would like to get some more advice from some experienced members on removing the A140E from my 98 Camry
I would like to remove the transmission from above?, without removing the engine or the sub frame is this possible?.It looks like it can be done this way, but I'm not totally 100% sure it will come out this way. lt looks like a tight fit..I would like to make this as easy as possible if possible since it's just me doing this transplant
I have all the parts removed from above the transmission and my next step will be to start on removing the drive shafts...is it possible to only remove the LH drive shaft only or do I have to remove both drive shafts?...I have read that some members only remove the LH drive shaft and just pull away the transmission from the RH drive shaft
I'm use to pulling the rear wheel transmissions and this will be first front wheel drive swap
Thanks for any advice you can provide
I would like to get some more advice from some experienced members on removing the A140E from my 98 Camry
I would like to remove the transmission from above?, without removing the engine or the sub frame is this possible?.It looks like it can be done this way, but I'm not totally 100% sure it will come out this way. lt looks like a tight fit..I would like to make this as easy as possible if possible since it's just me doing this transplant
I have all the parts removed from above the transmission and my next step will be to start on removing the drive shafts...is it possible to only remove the LH drive shaft only or do I have to remove both drive shafts?...I have read that some members only remove the LH drive shaft and just pull away the transmission from the RH drive shaft
I'm use to pulling the rear wheel transmissions and this will be first front wheel drive swap
Thanks for any advice you can provide
#2
03-21-2010, 09:54 PM
Suggest a review of past posts, there have been a couple of members who recently did this job. One removed the trans from the bottom.
You can go out the top or the bottom via removing the sub-frame. Personally I would get a lift and remove the complete engine.
Removing the trans without removing the RH axle would seem to be possible if you can get the clearance to slide it out of the diff. The RH axle just slides into the diff housing, it does not have a retaining clip like the LH side which often requires brute force to get it to pop out the diff housing.
Might ask these questions at the Toyotanation website having a higher membership many of whom have removed this trans in the past.
Make sure you completely install the torque converter. It has a tang (or groove?) that needs to engage the opposite member on the oil pump drive shaft. If not fully engaged the converter will extend out of the housing a small amount. When the trans is bolted to the engine the converter will push against the pump and damage it.
Make sure the converter is full of oil when installed (if using the old one just don't drain it). The converter is NOT self priming and without oil the trans will not work requiring a trans pull and converter fill.
You can go out the top or the bottom via removing the sub-frame. Personally I would get a lift and remove the complete engine.
Removing the trans without removing the RH axle would seem to be possible if you can get the clearance to slide it out of the diff. The RH axle just slides into the diff housing, it does not have a retaining clip like the LH side which often requires brute force to get it to pop out the diff housing.
Might ask these questions at the Toyotanation website having a higher membership many of whom have removed this trans in the past.
Make sure you completely install the torque converter. It has a tang (or groove?) that needs to engage the opposite member on the oil pump drive shaft. If not fully engaged the converter will extend out of the housing a small amount. When the trans is bolted to the engine the converter will push against the pump and damage it.
Make sure the converter is full of oil when installed (if using the old one just don't drain it). The converter is NOT self priming and without oil the trans will not work requiring a trans pull and converter fill.
Last edited by toyomoho; 03-21-2010 at 09:59 PM.
#3
03-22-2010, 05:31 AM
Suggest a review of past posts, there have been a couple of members who recently did this job. One removed the trans from the bottom.
You can go out the top or the bottom via removing the sub-frame. Personally I would get a lift and remove the complete engine.
Removing the trans without removing the RH axle would seem to be possible if you can get the clearance to slide it out of the diff. The RH axle just slides into the diff housing, it does not have a retaining clip like the LH side which often requires brute force to get it to pop out the diff housing.
Might ask these questions at the Toyotanation website having a higher membership many of whom have removed this trans in the past.
Make sure you completely install the torque converter. It has a tang (or groove?) that needs to engage the opposite member on the oil pump drive shaft. If not fully engaged the converter will extend out of the housing a small amount. When the trans is bolted to the engine the converter will push against the pump and damage it.
Make sure the converter is full of oil when installed (if using the old one just don't drain it). The converter is NOT self priming and without oil the trans will not work requiring a trans pull and converter fill.
You can go out the top or the bottom via removing the sub-frame. Personally I would get a lift and remove the complete engine.
Removing the trans without removing the RH axle would seem to be possible if you can get the clearance to slide it out of the diff. The RH axle just slides into the diff housing, it does not have a retaining clip like the LH side which often requires brute force to get it to pop out the diff housing.
Might ask these questions at the Toyotanation website having a higher membership many of whom have removed this trans in the past.
Make sure you completely install the torque converter. It has a tang (or groove?) that needs to engage the opposite member on the oil pump drive shaft. If not fully engaged the converter will extend out of the housing a small amount. When the trans is bolted to the engine the converter will push against the pump and damage it.
Make sure the converter is full of oil when installed (if using the old one just don't drain it). The converter is NOT self priming and without oil the trans will not work requiring a trans pull and converter fill.
...I do have a toyotanation account but not having much luck there either.I do appreciate your input and now that you jogged my memory about the t.c. I know what to do I do have a 2ton hoist with engine leveler but am reluctant to remove the whole unit because I really don't know if I can hook up the transmission to the engine by my self.....oh well back to the drawing board
#4
03-22-2010, 07:25 AM
Well, I just did a removal/install on a 95 with 2.2 and A140/A140E. I took it out through the bottom. Now I'm on the second removal/install(could be due to lack of converter fill...otherwise something else is wrong. I opted to removing out the bottom again. Took me about 2 days to pull the trans and 1 to put it back in. This was all by myself as well.
Just take your time and don't get in a rush. Once you get the trans and engine lined up, if you get one bolt installed with a few threads, you can manipulate the trans around to get it lined up with the dowl pins. A second set of hands would be awsome at this point in the job however... only if they are strong enough to help manipulate the transmission while the vehicle is up in the air though.
Just take your time and don't get in a rush. Once you get the trans and engine lined up, if you get one bolt installed with a few threads, you can manipulate the trans around to get it lined up with the dowl pins. A second set of hands would be awsome at this point in the job however... only if they are strong enough to help manipulate the transmission while the vehicle is up in the air though.
#5
03-23-2010, 05:31 AM
thanks for the input....I'm still trying to decide if I want to tackle pulling the transmission from the top, trying to avoid removing the sub frame bc I don't think I can get the Camry up high enough and stabilize it properly working on dirt here.I had a garage a while back but when I sold my home and purchased another I didn't get a garage or a driveway either....so all my mechanic work this far with the 4runner and Camry has been on dirt that gets soft after a rain and we have had our share of rain here in GA this past year
....I'm still trying to decide if I want to tackle pulling the transmission from the top, trying to avoid removing the sub frame bc I don't think I can get the Camry up high enough and stabilize it properly working on dirt here.I had a garage a while back but when I sold my home and purchased another I didn't get a garage or a driveway either....so all my mechanic work this far with the 4runner and Camry has been on dirt that gets soft after a rain and we have had our share of rain here in GA this past year
#6
03-23-2010, 10:19 AM
Maybe you can make at frame to attach a chain hoist to pull the engine out.
In the past installed bolts where the axles want through the knuckle and hub. This allowed them to be pulled back together to simulate the axle nut. Once installed the car could be pushed back to allow the engine to be lowered onto the ground.
In the past installed bolts where the axles want through the knuckle and hub. This allowed them to be pulled back together to simulate the axle nut. Once installed the car could be pushed back to allow the engine to be lowered onto the ground.
#7
03-23-2010, 06:29 PM
Maybe you can make at frame to attach a chain hoist to pull the engine out.
In the past installed bolts where the axles want through the knuckle and hub. This allowed them to be pulled back together to simulate the axle nut. Once installed the car could be pushed back to allow the engine to be lowered onto the ground.
In the past installed bolts where the axles want through the knuckle and hub. This allowed them to be pulled back together to simulate the axle nut. Once installed the car could be pushed back to allow the engine to be lowered onto the ground.
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