Being a design defect, then the affected owners should expect satisfaction from Toyota...

Toyota had another problem with the previous 1MZ V6 and 5S-FE 4-cylinder Camry engines (Gen4, 1996-2001), where the PVC didn't vent the crankcase properly, causing the engines to sludge up.

In that case, a class-action suit was filed, which settled in 2007 -- resulting in 8-year "warranty" (Special Policy Adjustment, in Toyota's terms) to replace engines at Toyota's cost for affected owners.

I want to see something like that in this case, too...

 

Ok, so here is what we've got so far:

I called the local dealer and talked to both parts and service. They have never heard of such a thing. Although they had a block assembly in stock. So I called Toyota's tech line in California. They couldn't do anything about it since the vehicle is out of warranty.

Ok, so I'm interested in the class action suit, but in the mean time I need to fix these engines and get my customers back on the road. So...

Following the link suggested earlier in this thread for TimeSert, the kit you want is part # 2200. It is a universal kit that is used for Honda engines and Cadillacs, so they are not depth specific. You will need to take some measurements to get your inserts in to the right depth. The kit goes for $399.37, you can order one at 800 423 4070. The inserts in this kit are the extra long variety, measuring almost 30mm of threads, which should hold head bolt pressures just fine. The kit includes a guide plate to make sure you drill and tap the holes straight, pretty important since you will be going nearly 4 inches deep.

Another compant that makes insert kits is Full Torque. I have their kit for repairing blown out spark plug threads in the Ford Triton engines. I've been very happy with their stuff. In the case of the spark plug inserts, they use an anodized aluminum insert that has the same expansion rate as the aluminum head, so they do not work loose or cause heat transfer problems for the plug like HeliCoils will. They also use a drilled and set lock pin design, and they never come out. Ever. I've saved a lot of cylinder heads with these, not just Fords. I also use them to replace threads in aluminum oil pans.

Full Torque (Lock -N- Stitch) offers a kit for the Toyota engines as well. It uses the same depth insert as the TimeSert setup does. The kit # is FFT411150DRK, their phone # is 800 736 8261. In the case of the spark plug inserts, even if someone has installed a HeliCoil and it has failed, the insert is big enough to still fix it. Unfortunately this is not the case with this kit as far as I can tell. The outside measurement of the HeliCoil tap is 13.11mm, the drill size for the FT kit is 31/64, or 12.3mm. Not to say the tap wouldn't be the same, but they refer to it as a #4 tap and don't specify the pitch. That, and their kit costs $844.64. According to TimeSert, the tap they use is the same pitch as the one used for HeliCoils in that size (the head bolts are 11x 1.5mm), so assuming I can get the coils out of the one engine I can tap down past them and use the TimeSert setup anyway. My Helicoil kit tap was not long enough to set the coils at the bottom of the holes, so as long as they are at least 30mm from the bottom (which they are), they should be fine.

So I'm going to order the TimeSert kit. It should be early next week when I get it. I'll post more info then, including pics and times. So if any of you have one of these engines with this problem in or near north east Georgia, let me know. I'm about to drop $400 on tooling, I need to fix some engines with it.

 

Had one in stock, huh? I'll bet they're starting to order more, now, too...

I'll have more input about what my own mechanic has found, and what he's done to "fix" it after I get my Camry back. He's giving me a 3-year parts+labor warranty on the engine replacement, so you can bet he's going to make it bullet-proof.

How does one go about organizing a class-action lawsuit? Where's a lawyer when you, like, actually *want* one around???

 

I have sent a letter to Mr yoichi tomihara the Canada Pres & Ceo ofTtoyota Canada, 2 weeks ago , no responce yet!. I have since repaired my engine through due dilligence as i am a licensed mechanic for 20 years. put heli coils in the top of the block, bout 3" above orig threads, using 7/16" heli coils and matching 3 1/2" socket head bolts.
Ps: hole in block through to stripped threads, is slightly bigger than 29/64" hole size to tap coil, but it has proved close enough, in my case.

 

Toyota better come good! for this defect!.

 

I just got my Camry / 2AZ-FE back... with a new engine.

Once my mechanic (non-Toyota!) figured out what the problem was, he halted the re-assembly of the new engine immediately. My subsequent research on stripped head bolt threads turned up this forum + others that clearly demonstrate a product design flaw (or a common metalurgical defect in their block castings for the 2AZ-FE engine series).

In my case, the upward movement of the head allowed water to seep into the crankcase (instead of leaking out the side -- my bad luck).

My mechanic went with Time-Serts over heli-coils -- in part because he's carrying a 3-year parts + labor warranty, so he had to choose the best technology to ensure his repairs will fix the problem long-term. He also elected to do all 10 bolt holes for the same reason. So my recommendation to anyone else would be to go with the Time-Serts, too.

Now I have a factory reconditioned engine (which needs tuning after everything gets seated in) with steel threads in the block -- what Toyota should have done in the first place.

Now to pursue this up the chain with ToMoCo... I expect re-imbursement for all this!

 

been there done that ,got the bums rush from toyota canada today.

 

Fairly common, many guys repair threads in block with timesert thread repair kits.



http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...e_engines.aspx

 

does anyone know if there is any way of determining ahead of time if a head gasket is going to go bad? i've had my local mechanic check the bolts, but he only checked one. he said it was tight but would have to dig a lot deeper to check the others. my coolant level was below the "low" line.

 

Keep your eye on the coolant level. That is the early sign of the problem. The bolts that loosen up are ones in the back by the fire wall. I already had this problem last year. Did the helicoils, they didn't hold. So, I replace the engine. and again the same problem.