Camry 1997 V6 Transmission Axle Leak
Dear Toyota/Auto Experts,
Once my Camry V6 hits 100k i see all sorts of problems. After precautionary timing belt & water pump repair at 90k, had a failed pump (napa pump sold as a OEM pump!!) at 130k miles..!
Here is current problem: in the last 1.5 years my engine light come on and after driving on a highway (over 50miles/hr) goes off. On checking it shows P0773/7 (transmission bearings). So changed the Tran. fluid, filter, added Syn. blend. In the last year my driveway has blots of oil. On checking at the shop, found its from Axle to transmission seal need to be replaced. The transmission shop is asking for 330$ for replacement (parts plus labor), on checking to AAMCO trans. they give a quote for 149$ (on phone). Taking the quote back to the small Trans. shop they say it takes 3hrs labor, so are ready to give me 10% discount (300$ out the door). Here are the questions
1) Is it fair quote for Axle seal replacement & topping fluids? Whom
to believe? Whats would be best price?
2) Is P0773/7 codes related to leak. Any precaution would help..?
3) Is this a sign of failing transmission? (any major trans. repair in the making?)
thanks in advance to all the experts..
Once my Camry V6 hits 100k i see all sorts of problems. After precautionary timing belt & water pump repair at 90k, had a failed pump (napa pump sold as a OEM pump!!) at 130k miles..!
Here is current problem: in the last 1.5 years my engine light come on and after driving on a highway (over 50miles/hr) goes off. On checking it shows P0773/7 (transmission bearings). So changed the Tran. fluid, filter, added Syn. blend. In the last year my driveway has blots of oil. On checking at the shop, found its from Axle to transmission seal need to be replaced. The transmission shop is asking for 330$ for replacement (parts plus labor), on checking to AAMCO trans. they give a quote for 149$ (on phone). Taking the quote back to the small Trans. shop they say it takes 3hrs labor, so are ready to give me 10% discount (300$ out the door). Here are the questions
1) Is it fair quote for Axle seal replacement & topping fluids? Whom
to believe? Whats would be best price?
2) Is P0773/7 codes related to leak. Any precaution would help..?
3) Is this a sign of failing transmission? (any major trans. repair in the making?)
thanks in advance to all the experts..
The P0773 code is a problem with the shift solenoid valve SL, also called shift solenoid E. Not sure what P0777 is related to for this year of car/trans.
There is no code for bearings, lack of fluid or leaks, except indirectly.
Did the code(s) go away once you changed fluid, etc?
You actually saw the fluid leaking out of the trans axle seal. Which axle, passenger or driver?
As to repair quotes, in general always leery of large chains. However 3 hours seems to long. Perhaps this is the flat rate time. If an axle seal, any competent auto shop that replaces axles should be able to do the job. No need for a trans shop.
The seal is under $10.
There is no code for bearings, lack of fluid or leaks, except indirectly.
Did the code(s) go away once you changed fluid, etc?
You actually saw the fluid leaking out of the trans axle seal. Which axle, passenger or driver?
As to repair quotes, in general always leery of large chains. However 3 hours seems to long. Perhaps this is the flat rate time. If an axle seal, any competent auto shop that replaces axles should be able to do the job. No need for a trans shop.
The seal is under $10.
Thanks for the Reply Toyoma. .
Yes, after the first code appearance (~2 years back) i did do a flush and filter change. It did go away for few months. Then re-appeared and it goes away.. Since the leak it was on, then realized to top off the oil. I went ahead with the reseal with the transmission shop, may be its too high for 300$. Just the peace of mind.
Now iam not sure if the transmission will last or anything in the offing. thanks again for your opinion.
Yes, after the first code appearance (~2 years back) i did do a flush and filter change. It did go away for few months. Then re-appeared and it goes away.. Since the leak it was on, then realized to top off the oil. I went ahead with the reseal with the transmission shop, may be its too high for 300$. Just the peace of mind.
Now iam not sure if the transmission will last or anything in the offing. thanks again for your opinion.
My engine light P0773 is back on!.. as the forum suggested it is not linked to the leak. The error code is linked to "lock-up Solenoid: Open or short". Its been on and off for the last 1.5 years.
When i drive on the highway over 50 mph and switch off the O/D button and after awhile turn it on the check engine light goes off. Its back again after couple of months or some times in a few weeks.
What is the fix for code? Should i rebuild the transmission? How much would it cost to replace the solenoid? Or should i just trade it?
It has over ~155k miles (V6), overhauled with timing belt + waterpump (at 142k), axle seal, brakes etc and runs great.
thanks for all your suggestions.
When i drive on the highway over 50 mph and switch off the O/D button and after awhile turn it on the check engine light goes off. Its back again after couple of months or some times in a few weeks.
What is the fix for code? Should i rebuild the transmission? How much would it cost to replace the solenoid? Or should i just trade it?
It has over ~155k miles (V6), overhauled with timing belt + waterpump (at 142k), axle seal, brakes etc and runs great.
thanks for all your suggestions.
First, find an honest shop that will not try to steer you into a trans replacement without first doing diagnostics. Replacement = shop profits!
This issue is straight forward to diagnose.
The solenoid is electric and operates like a typical electric solenoid. When 12v DC is applied by computer, the solenoid operates opening a valve inside the trans. This valve turns O/D on.
The computer monitors the electric circuit. If the solenoid is supposed to be powered, but the circuit is dead, there may be a break in the electrical wiring or the solenoid wiring. If the circuit is drawing too much current, there may be a short circuit somewhere.
Or could be the engine/trans computer is bad.
Diagnostics is to check the wiring with and ohm meter for open or shorts. Check the solenoid resistance and compare to that specified in the shop manual. The solenoid can be removed and powered by 12v to check operation.
Access to the solenoid requires removing the trans oil pan. All work can be done with trans still in car.
If a bad solenoid part cost should be under $200 plus a couple of Qrts of trans fluid. Perhaps an hours labor. Most likely it is the solenoid.
If the computer buy a used one on Ebay or from internet salvage yard to save $$. Cost under $150.
This issue is straight forward to diagnose.
The solenoid is electric and operates like a typical electric solenoid. When 12v DC is applied by computer, the solenoid operates opening a valve inside the trans. This valve turns O/D on.
The computer monitors the electric circuit. If the solenoid is supposed to be powered, but the circuit is dead, there may be a break in the electrical wiring or the solenoid wiring. If the circuit is drawing too much current, there may be a short circuit somewhere.
Or could be the engine/trans computer is bad.
Diagnostics is to check the wiring with and ohm meter for open or shorts. Check the solenoid resistance and compare to that specified in the shop manual. The solenoid can be removed and powered by 12v to check operation.
Access to the solenoid requires removing the trans oil pan. All work can be done with trans still in car.
If a bad solenoid part cost should be under $200 plus a couple of Qrts of trans fluid. Perhaps an hours labor. Most likely it is the solenoid.
If the computer buy a used one on Ebay or from internet salvage yard to save $$. Cost under $150.
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