You are so right! What a dummy I am. The windows are moving!

Gene

 

The way the window motors wear out like most electronic motors is the brushes inside wear away much like brake pads wear. What happens is there is too little material left to make a good contact between the brush in the shaft. Sometimes though you'll hit a bump just right and allow the spring behind the brush to get a little extra push on the brush and allow the motor to work once or twice. This is why you were told to tap it with a hammer lightly and if it starts working VWALLA.

When switches go bad they "usually" stay bad or may get better by wiggeling them or what not. If you buy the motor from toyota it will come with the regulator which you most definately do not need. For some reason toyota sells the regulator seperately but not the motor. If you buy the motor aftermarket you can get it sepperate and probably for a lot cheaper. If you're real handy like me you can go to a hobby shop that sells brushes for remote control cars and rebuild yours. Sounds like you got a bad motor. Good luck.

 

Looks as tho you replyed to the wrong thread.
O BTW, we replace way more window regulators vs motors, a ratio of 1 motor per 100 regulators.
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oh yea my bad I meant to reply to the thread starter.

In response to your regulator comment I don't doubt regulators go bad alot more often than motors considering all the plastic in them. I honestly don't believe the 1 to 100 but why make that coment contradictory sounding? I know I didn't say anything about regulators being more or less common to need replacing. The problem the thread starter mentioned obviously sounds alot more like a motor problem than a regulator issue (must be one of the 1 in 100) hense me explaining how they work and how to cost efficiently repair it.

 

To tell you the truth it does'nt really bother me you don't believe the 1 in a hundred obviously you are not very familuar with my operation here in california. As far as the comment of plastic v metal there is probably 1 percent plastic and 99 percentil of metal in the regulators.
Today I had a camry the window would go down but would not go up, turned out to be the right rear window switch contacts burnt, this as well I don't care if you believe which I am sure you don't.
Yes I know it is very hard to troubleshoot over the net that is why I believe it be better to help ppl to troubleshoot rather than predict the obvious.
I myself am an automotive tech since the early 70's, and allso a aircraft mechanic.
Have a nice day,
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well I'm not about to try and beat my chest harder than you just did. You commented in a way that I was insinuating that regulators don't go bad. Of course they do. And with the 99% metal regulators. I haven't been doing this quite as long as you but I've seen my share and if your going by weight then yea its probably around that but if you go by volume then out of all the ones I've seen its more like 60/40 or 70/30 metal to plastic. You say your out in california. Maybe the amount of motors versus switches or regulators varies based on weather. There where it stays warm most the time alot of people probably just put the A.C. on and don't use the windows so much. That way things will rust before they (brushes) wear out. Here with the weather changing so much and sometimes being just the right temp outside to enjoy the fresh air people probably operate them more overall. Basically I may see totally diferent statistics of window motors versus other parts of the sytem.

I wasn't trying to solve the problem for the guy. I was explaining why an intermitent window operation problem is normally the motor. In my experience when the window gives intermitent trouble going up, not so much trouble going down, and when it does work it works normal or just about normal it's the motor 90% of the time.

 

I'd like to throw in my 2 cents about windows that go down but not up.
Spray some lubricant on the window tracks. Put the window all the way down, aim and spray down the window track. I use silicone spray once a month and my windows move easily. If you spray the window you can always clean it after you get it up. [:-] (the window that is)
The regulators I've seen fail break at the cable attachment point. That attachment point is made of plastic and can only stand so much stress. Eventually they will break but lubrication will prolong their life.

 

thats exactly the right and only right type of lube to use on the tracks. Anything but silicone will build up into a paste and will actually worsen the problem. I recomended that to another person but this thread starter being intermitent sounded more like motor symptoms but actually the lubrication thing could cause problems more in hotter weather so it could be that. right on.

I'm right with you about the plastic too. if the regulators WERE 90% metal like tim says then I dont think he'd see 100 regulators for every 1 motor. Just doesn't make a hole lot of sense but oh well.

 

ok here I go. I am not gonna dog you 9s but..... if you have to lube your tracks there must be something wrong so why not fix the problem??? kk??.
You talk as tho I am a dumb ***, dude, give me a zip code so I know where you are at.
Allso, your insinuated that we all use a/c where I live. I don't live in Arizona, I live in northern california. We don't allways use air conditioning.
Just to be on the safe side I let others read your replys to others, they laughed, so did I sorry but your funny. You are so full of ****, if the mods want to ban me please do so, Hopefully others will see how full of **** you really are. Dream on, your not a tech,
Rant off, This will be my last post and unfortunatly will not be back to see a reply but if anyone needs a professional opinion just e-mail me I will reply, thank you
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I've been working at a reputible shop thats been doing very successful business for just over 12 years now. We've established a 10 bay garrage and EVERY tech at my shop is very experienced and EVERY tech sprays all the weather stripping, window guides, and c.v. boots with silicone spray. What it does is actually moistens the rubber almost like what armoral does to plastic except the rubber absorbs it and renews it. You can think I'm full of **** all you want but I've seen hondas and toyotas come in with windows that would go up real slow and the rubber would look almost gray. I'd spray it down and the rubber would look new again and walla the window would to up just as fast as it went down and wouldn't you know the customer never returned so keep up your good work ripping customers off for things they don't need. believe me it will catch up to you.

as far as him not coming back on I guess he's pissed someone pointed out his own bull**** saying regulators are all metal and saying he sees 100 to every 1 motor. Sorry to say dude but THAT made me and all my buddies laugh cause even if you lived on the equator that wouldn't happen. I WAS trying to be nice saying that maybe you're right cause I don't always try to be a candid ******** when I dont have to be but you brought it out so good luck running your shop into the ground with misdiagnostics and refusal to do full and propper maintence.

Oh and I never called myself a tech. Auto techs fix cars. I can fix ANYTHING. Thats what sperates Mechanics from techies like you. As far as the zipcode I'm at 03062 which is Nashua New Hampshire. I'm not sure what you want it for unless it's to try to make yourself look like an internet tough guy like your gonna come look me up. Just remember the internet tough guy persona thing doesn't help when your getting wacked around by a real man.