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Egr valve passage cleaning

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  #11  
Old 08-30-2010, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by honda pc
go to your local import junkyard. I got mine there for $15 for whole thing, egr valve, tubing connector part. You still didn't say what code you got.

Hey it's been a while...well I recently had the EGR replaced with a used one from junkyard..instantly the car felt smoother...I erased the code and drove it..it was gone for a while that day but return shortly after I shutoff engine and used car next day..well I am partially disabled but I still try..I decided to go after the VSV and honestly am a little confused..I thought there was one but following hanes repair book saw 3 VSV on top of engine...anyway can someone tell me best way to clean the VSV? I presume I can soak everything except the electronics right? Also how do we know the EGR modular filter had its use? Mine look dirty even though per hanes book instruction I air blew it out. I have the V6 3.0 engine...I ohm the VSV and it showed 38(book says it has to be between 33-39ohm) to OHM it I had weird off the charts #s but changing selections on volt meter it got to 38 ohms BTW I write cause I worked on VSV on Saturday and erased code but after 20 minute ride turned off engine and after restart I noticed same code p0401....
 
Attached Thumbnails Egr valve passage cleaning-photo-1.jpg   Egr valve passage cleaning-photo-2.jpg   Egr valve passage cleaning-photo-3.jpg   Egr valve passage cleaning-vsv-loc-2.jpg  

Last edited by c32used; 08-30-2010 at 06:56 PM.
  #12  
Old 08-30-2010, 06:58 PM
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Any reply?
 
  #13  
Old 09-04-2010, 08:39 AM
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I wanted to add to this for future reference about the V6...the VSV is located on top of engine under that little engine cover in front of EGR over throttle body....there are three but the one with the vacuum tubing coming from the modular into the VSV and out going to the EGR is the one the others are for other systems thus totally unrelated. After speaking with a mechanic I learned that ohm testing needs to be done by removing part and adding DC voltage like that of a car charger...turning car on doesn't give you true ohm by what I was told anyways I gathered this from that the VSV is closed and when asked mechanic told me yes so if you can blow thru it the VSV is stuck open..I cleaned it out prior to reinstall and testing and it blows thru..I am having it DC powered to test it later this morning afternoon. I have a thread where a member posted info on how to clean it..(VSV) the ohm range of a working VSV according to Haynes Manual is between 33-39ohm.
 
Attached Thumbnails Egr valve passage cleaning-photo-1.jpg   Egr valve passage cleaning-photo-2.jpg   Egr valve passage cleaning-photo-3.jpg  
  #14  
Old 09-04-2010, 01:26 PM
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It appears my VSV is defective. I took it out and if was told one can't blow thru it..which mine does....looks like this might be my issue. There would be no point to take the VSV apart again since if not powered the VSV stays shut thus can't breath through. The ohm test is next once I get 12 volt power other then the car.
 
  #15  
Old 09-05-2010, 03:20 AM
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Was your VSV all plugged up with carbon deposit.. If it was and you cleaned it, then all you would have to do is plug it back in car. Don't reset the check engine lite, then take a drive and get above 60mph and then stop somewhere, turn key off and then on again, do it 5 times...It takes 5 error codes by car computer for check engine lite to come on...

but if you fixed the problem, the lit check engine lite will go while you are driving and you will know that you fixed the problem.

Most likely VSV is not faulty electically, just like the EGR, modulator.... Most emission parts problems are usually related to all carbon deposit plugging up emission parts, like egr, VSV, vac lines and others... Now I don't know about Oxygen sensor that much...

You got nothing to lose, so plug it back in and see if it works... Don't start trusting mechanic for solutions without paying $$$ for it and that's even if they fix it.
 
  #16  
Old 09-05-2010, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by honda pc
Was your VSV all plugged up with carbon deposit.. If it was and you cleaned it, then all you would have to do is plug it back in car. Don't reset the check engine lite, then take a drive and get above 60mph and then stop somewhere, turn key off and then on again, do it 5 times...It takes 5 error codes by car computer for check engine lite to come on...

but if you fixed the problem, the lit check engine lite will go while you are driving and you will know that you fixed the problem.

Most likely VSV is not faulty electically, just like the EGR, modulator.... Most emission parts problems are usually related to all carbon deposit plugging up emission parts, like egr, VSV, vac lines and others... Now I don't know about Oxygen sensor that much...

You got nothing to lose, so plug it back in and see if it works... Don't start trusting mechanic for solutions without paying $$$ for it and that's even if they fix it.

No it wasn't plugged up but OK...is it true that to check IF I can blow thru the VSV valve that if you can feel the wind on the exit that it's faulty....can someone verify this please? Also the 2 other VSVs on this V6 can I use those in place of this VSV thus leave the faulty one(if it is) in whichever I use...if it don't effect emissions? It's easy to verify on any V6 itd held with a screw on opposite side.
 
  #17  
Old 09-07-2010, 11:37 AM
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OK no reply to my last response yet so I'll go ahead and add this !!PLEASE CORRECT IF WRONG!! I tested the VSV for my 1996 V6 Camry first with NO POWER I attached a vacuum hose on entrance and exit...I held exit hose in a cup of water and blew air thru the entrance and air made bubbles in water...I performed same task this time holding entrance vacuum hose in water and blew thru exit vacuum hose and bubbles once again...then to make sure IF it had to be powered to force VSV to close it's valve I attached VSV to it's engine harness connector meaning it has power once I turned key to before turning on engine position...re-performed steps above in same manner a still bubbles appeared in water..so my conclusion unless proven wrong is my VSV is not working so next is to get a replacement VSV and hope that was the issue.

P.S. I USED A VOLT METER ON HARNESS VSV CONNECTOR TO BE SURE IT HAD DC VOLTAGE ONCE I TURNED KEY TO PRIOR TO TURNING ENGINE ON POSITION.
 
  #18  
Old 09-08-2010, 11:33 AM
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Is the VSV you refer to shown in the photo?

Does the part have two small vacuum hoses connected to it?

Does one hose go to what looks like a can on the EGR valve (the EGR having 1 vacuum hose attached). The other hose going to what also looks like a can type item that is located next to the EGR valve (this can has 2 vacuum hoses attached).

If so:

The ohm reading should be 33-39. This is with the electrical plug to the part removed.

There should be no continuity between the valve case (part that is steel) and either of the electrical terminals on part plug.

When the valve is NOT powered, air should flow between the port (tube) nearest the round barrel on one end of the valve (let's call it Port A), and the port at the other end of the valve (Port B). Thus Port A is connected to Port B.

When the valve IS powered by 12v DC. Air should flow between Port A and the round barrel (let's call it Port C). The round barrel is actually another port but it vents or is open to atmosphere. The round barrel is a screen/filter to keep debris out of the valve and hoses.

When the valve is powered, Port A is no longer connected to Port B. Port A is now connected to Port C, which is vented to the atmosphere. Air should NOT be flowing between Port A and Port B, but from Port A to Port C.

Check airflow between all the ports as stated above.

When the VSV is powered, the EGR system is off.

If the valve has 3 hoses attached to it, post back.
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  #19  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
Is the VSV you refer to shown in the photo?

Does the part have two small vacuum hoses connected to it?

Does one hose go to what looks like a can on the EGR valve (the EGR having 1 vacuum hose attached). The other hose going to what also looks like a can type item that is located next to the EGR valve (this can has 2 vacuum hoses attached).

If so:

The ohm reading should be 33-39. This is with the electrical plug to the part removed.

There should be no continuity between the valve case (part that is steel) and either of the electrical terminals on part plug.

When the valve is NOT powered, air should flow between the port (tube) nearest the round barrel on one end of the valve (let's call it Port A), and the port at the other end of the valve (Port B). Thus Port A is connected to Port B.

When the valve IS powered by 12v DC. Air should flow between Port A and the round barrel (let's call it Port C). The round barrel is actually another port but it vents or is open to atmosphere. The round barrel is a screen/filter to keep debris out of the valve and hoses.

When the valve is powered, Port A is no longer connected to Port B. Port A is now connected to Port C, which is vented to the atmosphere. Air should NOT be flowing between Port A and Port B, but from Port A to Port C.

Check airflow between all the ports as stated above.

When the VSV is powered, the EGR system is off.

If the valve has 3 hoses attached to it, post back.
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yes the vsv you mention is same I speak about. I ohm before but with power and plug inserted and got a 38.95. The ports A and B are the only 2 I am testing not the one with the filter thingy on it(roundish) with and without power I can breath thru port A and B thru either direction.
 
  #20  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:19 PM
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This is it in picture. I used a vacuum hose attached to side where plug inserts facing west I call that port A...then another vacuum hose on end facing north between roundish filter thingy and description saying "Toyota" that's port B.
 
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