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Header Pipe Removal - 1995 Toyota Camy 6 3.0 liter

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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 08:50 PM
  #11  
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update

my thoughts on your pictures

the exhaust system has large holes .. the nuts are not welded to the pipes section

its a torx bolt though to the other side

the other side is a plug with the torque bolt thread internally to tighten the joint

the plug nut is already rounded a bit

the plug side may need to held with a spanner or deep socket or it may just spin

the torx bolt . if it is head is raised above the nut .should be the one you try to undo ....

the larger nuts should have loose flat washers below each side ...

why the nuts look different
the two larger nuts are the supports/guides for the torx bolt and plug fastener
 
Attached Thumbnails Header Pipe Removal - 1995 Toyota Camy 6 3.0 liter-plug-side.jpg   Header Pipe Removal - 1995 Toyota Camy 6 3.0 liter-torx-side.jpg  

Last edited by dirty hands; Jan 22, 2016 at 10:26 PM.
Old Feb 25, 2016 | 11:30 PM
  #12  
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Thank you. Been a bit but just finished with struts , springs, tie rods, inner tie rod bellows and a few other suspension parts. That took a while. Front spring broke, hence front end had some issues. After it was done front was great and fender went up at least 3 inches. Working on exhaust the weekend.
 
Old Feb 28, 2016 | 09:53 PM
  #13  
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I am starting to remove the header pipe. I just finished some urgently needed suspension work ( different thread). That said, my header pipe has two pipes one goes to one exhaust manifold and the other another exhaust manifold, then there are two flex pipes and the last pipe connects to a cat. The header pipe has no cat but using my vin it comes up with 17410-0A040. I can't find a picture but its like $1000 so I think it has a cat. I looked at the 1994 Camry V6 on rock auto and my header pipe is there. Can't figure it out.


Note I have cats but my car does not require emmissions check. 1995 Toyota Camry Sedan build 6/95
 
Old Feb 28, 2016 | 09:54 PM
  #14  
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3.O LITER 1MZ ENGINE I think.
 
Old Mar 1, 2016 | 06:52 AM
  #15  
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Ignore my previous messages. After a closer look the 1995 header pipe does have a welded cat and the header pipe described on the oem parts sites for my year are correct.
 
Old Mar 8, 2016 | 10:57 AM
  #16  
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Question - I have ordered the header pipe and gaskets from Rock Auto. I have also been able to loosen all the bolts/nuts in preparation for removal. The connecting pipe after the cat has plain nuts and bolts but very rusted and can be easily cut.


What type of new nuts and bolts should I use. Hardened and what type?
 
Old Mar 8, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #17  
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Suggest galvanized or perhaps stainless if you can find it.

Grade 5 for US should be OK or equivalent for metric.

I would go with what I could find at a local, decent stocked hardware or fastener store. Get bolts whose thread length extends the complete length of the shank to be able to clamp up with any thickness of material. They are called tap bolts.
 
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 08:48 AM
  #18  
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Thnaks, I
 
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 08:56 AM
  #19  
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Thanks, I have all the main bolts loosened. The hangers were easily loosened.


There is only one to loosen and have not figured it out yet.


If you look at the previous pictures it is the one that does not have a female torx/nut through the bolt but just a nut on bolt. Tried to unscrew bolt with socket but did not work and do not want to break bolt. I think there is a nut behind it I need to unscrew. Will tell you how I figure it out.


Parts arriving today for weekend install. Fun Fun


I know this a long thread and appreciate everyone's help. Will summarize the work at the end with more pictures.
 
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 08:57 AM
  #20  
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Default Here is the picture I was talking about.

 



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