Hi - I am going to be replacing some broken lug studs on a 95 camry 2.2L manual trans DX sedan.
I've jacked the drivers side front up and put a jack stand under the pinch weld.
Now I know I have to take the brake pads and caliper bracket off, then pull the rotor.
My question is once I do this am I able to put the car in Neutral to spin the hub and line up the
broken lug stud with the hole that facilitates removal and insertion?
I am asking because I am not sure if I need both front wheels off the ground in order to spin the hubs?
Do I even need to use neutral to spin the hub to align?
Is the best way to remove the broken stud just by pounding it out with a hammer?
And what is the best way to keep the hub from moving when I am trying to seat the new lug stud back in.
I am going to put a washer, a larger nut, and another washer and then use my lug nut in reverse to pull in the lug stud.
Thanks for your help.

 

In Park the axles are locked by the trans. In Neutral the axle will rotate. Only one side of the car need be raised.

Might be better off using a stud removal tool instead of pounding. Basically a C-clamp with a screw to push the stud out.

Hub movement during installation should not be a problem.

Mark the rotor orientation with the hub to replace it in the same spot.

 

Thanks Joey, my car is a 5 speed stick, is neutral still OK to spin driver hub with passenger tire on ground. Do you recommend putting any wd40 on the knurls of the lug stud before insertion?

 

Neutral is good, as the axle will not turn when in gear unless both wheels are off the ground.

The links below discussed tools to remove the stud. Note the type of tools used to press the stud out. Banging on the end of the stud will work but could cause bearing damage.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...lation/removal

How to Replace a Broken Wheel Stud | The Family Handyman

The link below discusses installing the stud. Note the lug nut is reversed on the stud to pull it.

No lube should be required. WD-40 may work or oil, grease, etc may ease the installation force.

Lubing the threads of the nut and bolt will help prevent damage to either. Remove the lube prior to torquing up the nut on the wheel as lube increases the tension on the bolt for a given torque. Meaning a lubed nut/bolt will have a greater bolt tension then a dry nut/bolt for the same applied torque due to reduced thread friction.

 

Project update - So I was able to replace my broken lug studs. I used to Harbor Freight ball joint separator from the link in toyomoho
post (thanks for saving my bearings!). This was my first time doing this type of project and I have never done breaks before - so all new to me. The ball joint separator worked like a charm - however I suggest putting something underneath it to catch it once the broken lug stud SHOOTS out. I heard this loud pop and wasnt sure if the tool broke or what. To my pleasant surprise the lug stud came out like a rocket and the tool hit the floor hard. I froze the new lug stud - dont know if that made it any smaller - and put a little wd40 on it. I used the separator again to push in the new lug stud. It would only go in half way as the tool has no captive hole for the large bolt and was slipping off the end of the tool under the force. I removed the tool and put a washer/larger nut/washer combination on the lug stud and then a m12-1.5 nut that I purchased separately to avoid using my new lug nuts as the nut to pull the stud in the rest of the way. I used a breaker bar to pull in the stud.
Drivers side completed! While driving around testing out my new lug stud and thinking about doing the passenger side I stopped into O'Reilly's and found this tool
Performance Tool W83025 - Puller | O'Reilly Auto Parts
I used this tool to push out my broken stud on the passenger side - I did have to grind off some metal on the tool to get a good fit over the stud
so Im sure my Lifetime Warranty is now void! But it came out like butter, thinking with the force being applied head on vs. from the side it is much better for removal. Doesnt work for insertion on new lug stud, angle seemed wrong coming from back of hub so I used the separator again to get it in about half way (same problem with bolt slipping off tool) and finished with washer/nut combo and breaker bar. This one seemed to seat easier but that may have been my confidence level up from the drivers side.
The best advice I had found was someone said they always run a m12-1.5 die over their studs any time they remove their tires. So I did this with mine as my old lug nuts would only go on a few turns and then bind up. I had purchased a whole new set of lug nuts and they would only go on so far but after I used the die on the studs they went on like butter, where the old lug studs still only go on a few turns.
Now I just have to keep my tires away from shops and impact wrenchs!